WD40 and Gun Cleaning

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WD-40 is a must have for my guns, we live in AZ and use only evaporative (swamp) coolers during the summer. After decades, I have never had a rust problem on any item I have applied it to, this is especially so with my BP ML guns. Nuff said.
 
Well pardon me StoPPeR, but although this thread has taken a few swerves, I asked for opinions on if WD-40 was a decent solvent / cleaner, not a lubricant or protectant / preservative, and I think I've learned a few things from the experiences posted. Take a pill.

Thanks for the opinions, everyone.

Les
 
My Last Word...er.maybe.

I know that there are MANY lubricants,rust preventatives and penetrating oils on the market that are superior to WD-40 for their intended uses. My intent is not to extoll the virtues of WD-40 though they be many and varied. My problem is with the bashers that accuse it of things that it is not capable of doing. It will not gum up anything unless misused(i.e. left on for years with no other cleaning),it will not cause rust and it will not mildew. If anyone experiences these problems look elsewhere for the culprit. If anyone doesn't want to use it ,don't ,but dont disparage a good product.
 
I developed an anti-WD-40 reflex as an audio engineer, after seeing the results of folks trying to clean their gear with it (generally, it would be a mixing board that someone had spilled beer/orange juice/candle wax on, and the gunk seeped in, but I've seen it used as a general "clean-all" too.) WD-40 would get off the gunk, but leave its own behind (not to mention messing up the conductive plastics used in faders. Eek!)

It's Eezox for my firearms for me!


(and faderLube for my mixers)
 
OK Doc. Can you I.D. this mixer?

Les
 

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wrs840, any spares? :)

Try cleaning a bearing with wd40 and you will quickly see why some argue againstits use. It's improper use can cause abrasion issues. Why chance it. I saw too many ruin bearing on m61's by using wd40.

I miss pd6-80.
 
we live in AZ and use only evaporative (swamp) coolers during the summer.
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You know, Palehorseman, they invented this thing called an "air conditioner" a long time ago. I know it's more expensive to run, and I don't fault you for running a swamp cooler for light duty days, but decades with just a swamp cooler? My word!
 
If you're going to post some of a story, post all of the story. An above post mentioned some uses for wd-40 and claimed it was manufactured from fish oil. That text was part of this article, which was disputing the fish oil claims and provides facts to back it up.
http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp
 
With that said, once we used it to clean everything, we wiped everything down THEN lubricated our weapons with Break Free and later with MILTECH. As for my personal weapons, I will use it sparingly to clean all my guns (followed by MILTECH as a lubricant) and have not found it to be a problem yet.
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Wiping off WD-40 would remove most of the WD-40 and whatever residue is left after the light oils evaporate. Going over the surface later with break free would dissolve the remaining WD-40 into a good lubricant.

The MSDS of WD-40 is here. http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf

It has volatile oils, slightly heavier oil, and the secret ingredient : "non hazardous ingredients"

I suspect the non hazardous ingredients contain silicone. The oils evaporate off leaving silicone.

The oils would dissolve powder residue, because "like dissolves like". I have no doubt there are better powder solvents, and one is called "GI Bore Cleaner". Mineral spirits, acetone, are probably better. Any of the surface cleaners used in automotive paint shops are excellent solvents. (They will dissolve the powder residue and your plastic grips!)

I did a rust test with penny nails in salt water. WD-40 did good. But it only provides short term rust protection. It is not going to be as good a lubricant as motor oil. In fact since so few oils are better lubricants than motor oils, lets just say, there are a lot more oils which are better lubricants than WD-40.

If you want a very good, cheap, gun powder solvent, just Google "ed's red" and make that. If you want an excellent, cheap lubricant, use motor oil.
 
WD-40 is nothing more than Stoddards solvent (aka: "mineral spirits") and a light minerally derived petroleum oil propelled by CO2. It works well as a penetrant and water displacer; has "very light" lubricating properties.

For what it is, it works well and has its place in removing H2O from the internal mechanisms of firearms. If one is "squeamish" or "nervous" about it, it can be rinsed from the action of a firearm by any of the readily available firearms degreasers or automotive carburetor cleaner. Nothing to get all excited about. Most folks use mineral spirits anyway without the realization that it composes the majority of WD-40's content.

Quite frankly, one can clean, lubricate and protect their firearms with just four chemicals (only one of which is a "gun specific" product), those being:

1. WD-40 (water displacement) (optional)
2. Carburetor Cleaner; Non-chlorinated formulation (degreaser/water displacement)
3. Hoppes #9 (copper/powder solvent) and
4. Mobil 1 Synthetic 20w50 "V-Twin" or 10w40 motorcycle oil (lubricant)


 
300+ firearms cleaned and lubed almost exclusively with WD-40 over 20+ years and no signs of rust or wear indicating poor lubrication...looks like the kool-aid isn't all that good.
 
WOW!

I just watched a thread be closed on a ammo tax topic and it was closed because it has been discussed too many times. Obama was just elected so some are interested in starting the topic over. It is relevant and valuable to discuss such topic when pertinent information changes, I suggest.

However, this topic, "WD40" has been done to death for years. Why has it not been closed. It is ridiculous. WD40 is for water displacement. Jeez why is it ok to rehash this crap but, no, can't discuss taxes.

Disputes over taxes is what made this country, lest anyone forget.

It seems to be little more than the pathertic teacher in the new currently, that is afraid because his student thinks differently than he.

I also understand that the thread deleted was probably a troll but it does not negate my argument.

I am a bit lit up tonight because I just found out that I am unable to carry at my new employer. They have a very open floor plan.
StoPPeR is offline Report Post
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Good argument, wrong place to post dissatisfaction:)
 
looks like the kool-aid isn't all that good.
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Well, it seems to have worked on you! The way the argument goes is that people refuse to believe obvious truths and evidence - e.g., they "drank the Kool-Aid." Ignoring the multiple cases of evidence presented by folks here personally and then saying, "Well, it didn't happen to me so it must not exist" - blindly believing - this is the definition of "drinking the Kool-Aid." Check it out:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kool-aid#.22Drinking_the_Kool-Aid.22

No offense, but it's best to get the terminology correct.
 
1.
Clean?
WE are supposed to clean these things?
I last inspected and maintained some back in October of 2008.

2.
WD 40.
When was Ford President?
The reason I ask, I think that was the last time I was near a can of WD-40.
I don't recall every having a can coming up, or a Marvel Mystery Oil for that matter.

If MMO smells like wintergreen, then that is what that fella was using in a air hose.

Clean...really?
 
I do not spray it directly on my guns, I do however spray it on a rag, and wipe them down with it. I suspect it could leave a gummy residue, but no proof. I did buy a used Delta Elite with a gummed firing pin, it could have been old WD 40, but I don't know for sure. I cleaned it, and only wipe the outside down with WD, and a quick damp patch on the bore. No rust issues, and my safe is not moisture protected. Yes, even under the grips of my 1911's are preserved with no signs of rust.

John
 
on the military side, WD-40 is a massive no-no on weapons. its a great lube but its also a penetrant that will burn off too quickly. there is stuff on the shelf already made for firearms that maybe we shouldnt shortcut around. overspray some WD40 on wood furniture and see what happens....
 
we had a few cans of it while we were growing up. after (like many others) we found out the hard way that it gums everything up, we pretty much quit using it. i can't remember the last time there was a can in my garage.
 
I used to think WD-40 was OK. However, I have directly experienced the gunking up (varnishing whatever) effect on tools and my Moisin-Nagant. It was easy enough to remove but I will not do it again.

I have seen the gunk with my own eyes. If you need to go with a cheap solution that is good...there are many: synthetic motor oil and good old 3-in-1 among many others.

I am a CLP and or Hoppes man. I really miss Gunslick. I have a private stash but it won't last forever.
 
I used to think WD-40 was OK. However, I have directly experienced the gunking up (varnishing whatever) effect on tools and my Moisin-Nagant. It was easy enough to remove but I will not do it again.
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Exactly. The reason I used the Ruger .44 carbine as an example was because the magazine tube isn't designed to come apart. It is very difficult to clean the inside of it once it becomes "tacky" from WD-40 accumulation. It takes years of "just a little", but eventually it can accumulate into a problem.

We had a similar problem with electrical contactors. Some of them, with sliding parts with little clearance, would develop trouble. We tore them completely down and found WD-40 gum.

The crazy thing is, the problem can actually be masked by constant use of WD-40. As it acts like a solvent, it can free up the gum for a period, until the parts dry thoroughly. Then the problem reappears.

So I still use WD-40 in other applications. Not gun cleaning or lubricating. I'm just a little more aware of what it is doing, and I try not to use it in areas that are hard to clean, because of the potential gum formation over time.
 
[Harold Mayo
Senior Member



Join Date: 12-24-02
Location: Bowling Green, KY
Posts: 1,011 300+ firearms cleaned and lubed almost exclusively with WD-40 over 20+ years and no signs of rust or wear indicating poor lubrication...looks like the kool-aid isn't all that good.
/QUOTE]
Sounds like you have enough experience to have some credibility but the anti wd force is strong here.
After reading the last page I'm surprised its not being blamed for cancer. It seems that no other solvent or lube will accumulate sludge and grime if left to pool in un cleaned assemblys.
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Not arguing, just explanation -

The WD40 film can be very, very thin. It can be everywhere, because of the typical spray application. And it can be very sticky, almost like Scotch tape.
Once misuse develops this, it can be very hard to remove with normal solvents and gravity to do a "flush".

Of course overlubrication can create a dirty sludge if cleaning is neglected.

What is wanted, IMO, is a lubricant that is tenacious enough to resist gravity (and reasonable amounts of water) but runs off easily when hit with a solvent. Then you reapply judicious amounts of lubricant, in the areas that need it, and go forward until the next cleaning. I believe many, if not most, of the modern gun lubricants meet this requirement.
 
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