Wear mark on S&W revolver frame

[mgmorden]

Hey guys. I saw a post on another forum about someone asking about a wear mark on a S&W revolver. It was just below the cylinder on the left side of the gun. This piqued my interest because my S&W Mod 64-3 shows the same mark. It seems to stem from the cylinder ever so slightly rubbing the frame when it's swung out and rotated. It had never bothered me before - the gun shoots fine and the cylinder rotates freely - any contact with the frame is slight enough for me not to notice. However, some posters on the other forum indicated that this was not normal and was a problem. A few others said it was nothing to worry about.

Just figured I'd check with you guys. I'm attaching a picture of the wear. Any reason to be worried about this, or is it ok?

Thanks.

 

[fullhouse]

I have a S&W 357 & 44 that don't have those marks. I'd be worried if it were mine.
Are the primers being hit on center?
Is the gun still in time?
Has someone been opening the cylinder by rapidly flipping the wrist while depressing the latch?

 

[Flint Ridge]

Is it really touching? Check that first, slide a business card or something up in between there. I have 3 S&W 66's a no dash and two -1's. They all show varying marks in this area. None of the cylinders touch the frame. I was thinking this was a pin or something for the trigger, but after looking more it is the pin for the cylinder stop and trigger, presume it is SS welded on the left side of the frame and makes this mark or warble in the finish. Oh and one that only has maybe 300 rounds through it shows the mark as well. None of mine are yet high round count items.

You can look at this link, go WAY down to Post #9 on removing an interanl lock and clearly see the pin I am discussing. Likewise if you look closely you may also see a blem on the left side of the frame for the pin for the hammer to pivot on. Hope this helps. And who knows may not be your issue at all.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html

 

[mgmorden]

Timing appears to be on. I need to find a batch of the last cases I fired to verify center primer strikes, but if the timing is on it certainly can't be much off center. As to flipping the cylinder out with the wrist, I personally haven't ever done this, but the gun was bought used (once upon a time it was used by the Pittsburgh PD, as the backstrap is marked as such). so it certainly may have a history.

As to touching, with the cylinder at rest there is no touch. There's not a LOT of room there, but you can definitely see a unbroken light through it and a sheet of office paper slides through no problem. A business card might be a tad too thick though - it's definitely close.

I suppose it could be a weld point for the pin on the other side. The location looks perfect for that, but the mark just looks odd for that to be it. I suppose too that with it being a police surplus gun it's perfectly possible that the gun once had an issue that was since corrected by an armorer but the mark remains.

 

[18DAI]

My 4" 66-2 has a worse mark in the same area. No worries. Still shoots like a laser and locks up like a bank vault. TJ

 

[Flint Ridge]

Mine vary in what shows from virtually nothing to painfully obvious. Guess it would just be the workmanship of the folks involved that day or how heavy somebody leaned on the buffering wheel, thereby removing more material...

I think you are good to go. If I had a camera that would do decent closeups, this would clear things up.

 

[fullhouse]

My 629 & 686 don't have those marks. Maybe that's just a characteristic of your model. Or as you stated it maybe something that was fixed by a police armorer at one time. Might be enlightening to give Smith a call.

 

[MrBorland]

As to touching, with the cylinder at rest there is no touch. There's not a LOT of room there, but you can definitely see a unbroken light through it and a sheet of office paper slides through no problem. A business card might be a tad too thick though - it's definitely close.

The cylinder stop slots looked a bit peened to me. If a business card is too tight to fit between the cylinder and frame, do the raised edges rub as you rotate the opened cylinder?

Seems mine have more room between the cylinder and frame than the thickness of a business card. Does the closed cylinder lock into place firmly? Look at the front of the ejector rod when the cylinder is closed. Does it connect with the plunger under the barrel symmetrically? Just wondering if the crane is bent a bit.