Wedge Retainer for Open Top Revolvers

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Smokin'Joe

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Open Top Colt revolvers have wedges that can all too easily drop out and get lost when the barrel is removed. A simple modification can all but eliminate this problem. I started with a #8 split lock washer and modified it with needle files.

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Unmodified washer on left, modified washer on right.

This washer is placed on the wedge screw with the flat positioned toward the wedge slot of the barrel. This provides a greater surface for the wedge spring to grab onto making for a tighter fit. If the wedge fit is too tight simply file a little metal off the flat surface and try again until fit is acceptable.

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That screw looks out of spec.or the screw hole location is out. The head of the screw should be sufficient for the spring to catch. The other problem you find with wedge screws is them not pulling up flush to the barrel. This allows the spring to slip by as well. I always seat the screws flush.

Mike
 
Cure for a non issue, Seat the screw and the wedge wont fall out unless the wedge need replaced or the spring tweaked on.
 
45 Dragoon said: "That screw looks out of spec.or the screw hole location is out."

Good idea Joe, it looks as if the screw hole was miss-located.

Guys, Neither the screw nor the hole are out of spec. If it looks that way I'll blame it on my close-up photography.

I have installed this modification on several revolvers always with good results.
 
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I have installed this modification on several revolvers always with good results.

I have refrained upon commenting upon this modification until this last post by you.

I only have 3 repro Pietta 1851 Navy .36 pistols and a repro ASM 1848 Pocket .31 and I have not encountered that problem with any of them.

That screw looks out of spec or the screw hole location is out. The head of the screw should be sufficient for the spring to catch. The other problem you find with wedge screws is them not pulling up flush to the barrel. This allows the spring to slip by as well. I always seat the screws flush.

Mike

Cure for a non issue. Seat the screw and the wedge wont fall out unless the wedge needs to be replaced or the spring has been tweaked on.

A simple cure is to remove the wedge w/spring when disassembling the pistol and put it in your shirt pocket or another safe place.

If you are having this same problem with "several" revolvers, I sure would like to know the manufacturer of said revolvers, and what your procedure is to fit the wedge/spring, if any. Most factory repro C&B pistols (at least Pietta) have very tight fitting wedges and the tendency may be to slick them up a bit, not saying that is what you do.

Curious.

Jim
 
Well, I've never encountered that problem with the 200+ open tops I've worked on. I must be doing something wrong . . . .

Mike
 
"Well, I've never encountered that problem with the 200+ open tops I've worked on. I must be doing something wrong . . . .

Mike"

Knowing you (via phone) and your rep, that is the best laugh of the afternoon!
 
My brand new Pietta 1860 snubbie from Taylors has always had this problem. Taylors always runs them past the gunsmith before sending them out as well.

I could have complained, but honestly it just wasnt that big of a problem, and sending it back seemed too big a headache. It HAS always irked me though... And I may try this mod as it looks pretty much like a no-brainer....
 
The only one of mine that falls out is one that after getting rid of over .020 cylinder gap that had hammered the barrel slot oversize.
With advice from Mike it is a tuned and tight Navy, but the over width slot allows the wedge to turn sideways enough for the wedge spring to get past the screw.When I knock the wedge out it hooks then I push it back in the barrel while cleaning, no problem.
I have only ever looked closely at a dozen or so wedges and some don't have as much hook to the spring as others.
 
i for one like your idea. i made one for my ASM and it was the remedy i needed. i had a verry weak spring and was prying up on it all the time to keep the wedge in.this works great.,thanks for sharing this info. with us.
 
Toot,
Your problem isn't the spring. The spring is there just to keep you from loosing the wedge. The idea is for the wedge to stay with the barrel assy when you remove said assy.
Friction from tapping the wedge in (not pushing it in with your finger/thumb) is what keeps the wedge in place. Your problem is a short arbor which allows the barrel to bind the cylinder up if the wedge is taped in too far. Fix the arbor problem and you fix your "weak spring". The arbor is also what defines the barrel/cyl clearance.

Google Pettifogger open range articles and you'll get an idea of what to do.

Mike
 
Mike, The original post clearly states: "Open Top Colt revolvers have wedges that can all too easily drop out and get lost when the barrel is removed." The modification IS intended to keep from losing the wedge.
 
Between Mike's help and studying those Pettifogger articles to get the barrel/cylinder gap and arbor length all right on it makes the open top what Sam Colt invented. The wedge brings the barrel to the same place every time and holds the gun together as one piece.
The Pocket Pistols don't even have that little spring.
 
Yep Smokin Joe, you're right. I apologize for loosing my "post" train of thought. Carry on Toot44!

Thanks Dave! I like those "springless" wedges. They seem to be the way wedges should have advanced in the process.
In fact, my "captured wedge" will fall free from the barrel assy when disassembling, which is OK because the only reason to "disassemble" is for cleaning. Since my open tops are cartridge conversions and I only shoot smokless powder, I clean them maybe once a year(?).
The captured wedge is my "insurance" that constant tension is applied at all times and that the wedge can't accidentally get loose and allow damage (shooting with a loose wedge).

Mike
 
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