Well, that wasn't good

D

doubleh

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2007
Messages
8,555
Location
NM- far south of I-40
Finally the stars aligned, the wind quit blowing, and my SIL and I went to the range early yesterday morning. Oh, boy, I finally get to try out my new Canik TP9-SRX. Hooray quickly turned into pooey and then more profane comments. About every third shot resulted in a jam with the gun loading a fresh round and the empty case of the just fired shot laying on top of the round in the magazine and keeping the slide from closing. I have had stovepipes with some guns but never this problem. This happened with the three different brands of ammo and one box of handloads that we took with us. Four other 9mm guns had not one problem with any of it.

We had a front come roaring in from the northwest early this morning but the wind is slacking off so I will take my new toy out to my shop after lunch and see what is what with it and if I need to return it. Extraction was weak with the cases that did eject correctly so I will look at that first. The very first case landed on my cap's bill with the rest landing close to my right foot as I am right handed. At the very first I thought did I just limp wrist this thing but made certain I didn't with subsequent shots which made no difference at all. My SIL had the same problem also. I also found that the little dots on the frame's back strap are too much for my tender skin and I was sore between my thumb and finger when I gave up on it. That will be easily fixed when I can get a correctly shooting gun.
 
Try a heavier bullet. With semi-autos sometimes the lighter bullets are not enough to work the action all the way back. Heavier bullets might be what you need for now until the gun gets broken in. Also I would field strip it and give it a thorough cleaning.
 
ms6852 said:
Also I would field strip it and give it a thorough cleaning.
Click to expand...

I did that as soon as I brought it home but did not check the extractor That is where I will focus my attention first. Apparently Canik doesn't worry about any rust on the internals as this one had no lubrication at all. The action loads the next round just fine but doesn't eject the empty case with any authority at all.
 
Over the past few years, I’ve had to return to the factory three new pistols because they were defective: a Glock, a Ruger, and a Walther.

It’s like the US automakers in the 70s: the buyer is the QA person to work out all the kinks.
 
I haven't done anything to it yet. It was just yesterday and I am a sore old geezer after all the walking I did yesterday. I just finished lunch and will tackle the problem shortly as the wind has slowed considerably from this morning when it was really howling.
 
So it sounds like I should keep my old WWII era Walther P38 , that shoots everything I load into it , and not run out and buy a new Canik TP9-SRX !
I can't believe you had such dismal performance from a new gun ... that just sucks rocks big time and you have every right to curse words .
I hope the problem is simple to fix and you get it sorted out without too much stress and bother .
My Dad bought the Walther P38 in 1960 ... army surplus , and swore it was the best 9mm luger made .
He might be right ... it shoots everything I can fit in the magazine !

Good luck with getting the Canik sorted out . Hopefully it just needs different ammo and a little more break-in
Gary
 
I watched a few YouTube reviews before the purchase. Every one of them considered it a good pistol and there was lot of shooting them with no malfunctions. Just my luck I hit the jackpot with one that doesn't make the grade.
 
Keep shooting it, as I mentioned Canik were known for having strong sprints for NATO spec ammo, but they break in pretty quickly.
 
What factory ammo were you using?

The reason I ask is because most of the cheap ammo that is marked as "training" or "range" ammo tends to be on the weal side. Try some actual NATO spec 9mm and see if the problem goes away.

I gave up on Remington UMC ammo years ago, That stuff was so underpowered that it would not cycle in any of my pistols.

I had issues with my reloads when I built my first G17 clone years ago. My reloads were on the light side (close to starting powder charge). My reloads worked great in my G19's Star Firestar, Sig P938, 9mm 1911, 9mm AR pistol, and Kel-Tec PF-9. But they were underpowered to cycle the G17 slide fully. I bumped the powder charge up by 0.2 grains and the issues went away. I use Hodgdon Universal and plated bullets for most of my pistol reloads.
 
If the pistol does not function perfectly with factory ammunition send it back under warranty.

One of the last things I would do is to up the pressures of a reload that functions perfectly in other pistols.
 
doubleh said:
Finally the stars aligned, the wind quit blowing, and my SIL and I went to the range early yesterday morning. Oh, boy, I finally get to try out my new Canik TP9-SRX. Hooray quickly turned into pooey and then more profane comments. About every third shot resulted in a jam with the gun loading a fresh round and the empty case of the just fired shot laying on top of the round in the magazine and keeping the slide from closing. I have had stovepipes with some guns but never this problem. This happened with the three different brands of ammo and one box of handloads that we took with us. Four other 9mm guns had not one problem with any of it.

We had a front come roaring in from the northwest early this morning but the wind is slacking off so I will take my new toy out to my shop after lunch and see what is what with it and if I need to return it. Extraction was weak with the cases that did eject correctly so I will look at that first. The very first case landed on my cap's bill with the rest landing close to my right foot as I am right handed. At the very first I thought did I just limp wrist this thing but made certain I didn't with subsequent shots which made no difference at all. My SIL had the same problem also. I also found that the little dots on the frame's back strap are too much for my tender skin and I was sore between my thumb and finger when I gave up on it. That will be easily fixed when I can get a correctly shooting gun.
Click to expand...
Let me guess, you were running 115 grain through it. Try 124 grain until it's broken in, a couple of hundred rounds will probably do the trick. I ran into the same problem years ago with my SAR9, didn't read the manual......... :cool:
 
Slamfire said:
If the pistol does not function perfectly with factory ammunition send it back under warranty.

One of the last things I would do is to up the pressures of a reload that functions perfectly in other pistols.
Click to expand...
Well it is quite safe to do when your normal powder charge is at the minimum/starting charge weight per the manufacturer's load data and you are only going up 0.2 of a grain that is no where close to the maximum powder charge for that caliber and bullet weight. An added bonus in my situation was that bumping the charge up by 0.2 grains improved the accuracy of the loads in all of my 9mm guns.

As always, stick to powder manufacturer's load data and NEVEr exceed the max powder charge.
 
12Bravo20 said:
Well it is quite safe to do when your normal powder charge is at the minimum/starting charge weight per the manufacturer's load data and you are only going up 0.2 of a grain that is no where close to the maximum powder charge for that caliber and bullet weight. An added bonus in my situation was that bumping the charge up by 0.2 grains improved the accuracy of the loads in all of my 9mm guns.
Click to expand...

Below max, "should be" no problem to increase a powder charge. However if the reload works perfectly well in four other pistols.....

(note, a bud had reloads that functioned perfectly in a Beretta M92FS, but would not function an HK P7. However the HKP7 is a gas delayed blowback, and that mechanism is very sensitive to gas pressure. )

12Bravo20 said:
As always, stick to powder manufacturer's load data and NEVEr exceed the max powder charge.
Click to expand...

Agree on that.

If this was a older, used pistol, first thing I would do is buy new recoil springs and a mainspring. Weakened springs will cause stove pipes, jams as the slide partially catches a round. Can't say it results in weak ejection.

Weak extractor tension will cause stove pipes and the occasional cartridge will bounce off your nose and chest.

With a new pistol, this should always be the manufacturer's problem to fix.
 
Well to be honest, my minimum loads were probably just barely enough to work in my other pistols. I can only attribute it to the extra weight of the G17 clone slide. It also was the only one to have an optic mounted so that added to the overall slide weight too.

Like I said my original loads were at the bare minimum/starting charge. I only bumped the powder charge up by two tenths of a grain. It would be no different than going from using weak "range" or "training" ammo to full Nato spec ammo. And I was still clearly well below the max powder charge.

And I knew that my loads were weak when the pistol in question functioned fine with factory NATO spec ammo.
 
Slamfire said:
With a new pistol, this should always be the manufacturer's problem to fix.
Click to expand...
This ^^^^^

Why spend time & money fixing a problem that the manufacturer should fix on their dime?
I have never owned a Canik and have never dealt with their customer service but the reputation of their pistols is very good. Every company produces a lemon. Let them fix their lemon.

It appears the first thing you need to do if you want Canik to fix it is Register it for Warranty.
Here’s the link:

Canik Product / Warranty Registration

Canik Superior Firearms
www.canikusa.com www.canikusa.com

Canik has a Lifetime Warranty to the original owner.
Here is a description of their Warranty and the steps you need to take to get an RMA number to ship it back for repair.

Canik Limited Lifetime Warranty

Canik Superior Firearms
www.canikusa.com www.canikusa.com

From the website I posted above:
To make a repair claim, contact Century Arms at: 309 Sansburys Way, Suit 200, West Palm Beach, Fl. 33411, or email [email protected], or call (561) 908-7993 for instructions on how to return your pistol. Do not return your Canik pistol for service without prior authorization.
 
I won’t cast aspersions on anyone who says “ send it back,” but if I were you, I’d try hotter ammo first. Now, finding hot 9mm ammo can take some doing. My HK P30L, for example, has been 100% reliable but the cases dribble out of the ejection port unless I am running spicy fodder. Most 115 grain range ammo these days is pretty anemic; Federal Champion 115 grain runs a hair over 1000 fps in my guns. S&B 115 grain by comparison runs 1265 fps in service-sized guns on average and has no problem running against stiff springs and new guns. I’d suggest sourcing some S&B or some known hot NATO ammo and shoot at least a few hundred rounds out of it; it might save you a trip back to the mothership and all the attendant aggravation. Just $.02
 
there were recommendations from some canik owners to leave the slide locked back for a few days before shooting due to the stiff recoil spring. don't know if it helped but i kept my rival locked back for a few days in the safe before taking it to the range and no problems with 147 gr reloads and 115 factory.
 
My Mete was a little grumpy with my 115 grain midrange handloads but shot the hotter stuff just fine. After a couple hundred rounds and keeping it lubed, it is 100 percent reliable with everything I shoot.
 
roval said:
there were recommendations from some canik owners to leave the slide locked back for a few days before shooting due to the stiff recoil spring. don't know if it helped but i kept my rival locked back for a few days in the safe before taking it to the range and no problems with 147 gr reloads and 115 factory.
Click to expand...
Yes this^
I put on some work gloves and rack the slide 100+(or more) times on any new gun I buy.
This is after a disassembly and lube, then the slide rack, and finally another disassembly and re-lube.
I might even deburr/polish the mag lips too, if they appear ruff or have sharp edges.
That saves from buying expensive (hot) ammo just for brake-in.
jmo,
.
 
Actually working the recoil springs does more than just leaving them compressed. And when in doubt, shoot some NATO 9mm in new pistols. And if using hand loads, increase the powder charges as long as you NEVER exceed the maximum powder charge.

It's been a know fact since the beginning of the COVID epidemic that manufacturers lowered the powder charge on their low recoil ammunition marketed as "range" or "training" ammunition.

PS. the same goes with new magazines with stiff springs. It is recommended to load them and let them sit a day. The unload them, reload them, for a few days. You want to work the springs.
 
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