What 1911 grip screws to buy?

[Magoo]

I need a little help.

I'm working on an order for some various things, one of which is some grip screws to replace the mangled ones on my new-to-me (but obviously tinkered with) Springer 1911. I'd prefer allen head screws to avoid the gouged up flat head phenomenon (yes, I do have a "proper" screwdriver set). Maybe I'm making too much of it, but the reviews on Midways site generally had at least one person complaining about the quality of the various choices. It's only $10 or so, but I do hate paying anything for junk.

I may well just go to one of the local fastener specialty stores to get them. They'll only cost a dime or so apiece there since they're just screws rather than "1911 specific parts".

Thoughts?

 

[yeti]

With the proper screwdriver, and a little attention, plain slotted screws are easy to not bugger up, allen head screws are even a little harder to bugger up( but it can be done). Get the ones you like the best, either style is great at performing their function.

 

[tomkatz]

I've had good luck with wilson hex heads....

http://www.topgunsupply.com/parts-wilson-combat-1911-grip-screws-bushings/

 

[Jolly Rogers]

Call first to your local "specialty fastener store" cause the threads on the grip screws an grip screw bushings aren't anywhere close to standard threads. I have never heard of the thread specs before I started working on 1911's
Joe

 

[moxie]

FWIW, stock screws can, in a pinch, be removed/installed using the head of a .45ACP case. Designed that way.

 

[rcmodel]

I agree slotted head is the only way to go.

Almost everybody has a flat blade screwdriver.

Hardly anyone will have an Allen-Wrench when you need one.

BTW: It wasn't designed that way. As a matter of fact, a stock GI grip screw slot is too narrow for a cartridge case rim to be used on it.

rc

 

[Magoo]

Thanks fellas. I had a suspicion that folks grousing about poor quality fasteners just didn't know how to work a screwdriver .

 

[yeti]

It isn't that they don't know how to correctly operate a screwdriver, it is they don't know the correct screwdriver to operate. You know, except for size, all slotted screw heads look pretty much the same.

Some folks don't realize there is a difference between flat and tapered slots, and some don't care, and every now and then you are just stuck having to use a Swiss Army knife and buying some new screws.

 

[AZ_Rebel]

Hardly anyone will have an Allen-Wrench when you need one.

Well now that depends on your injinuwity, RC!

 

[yeti]

I like that, "Cheaper Than Dirt" could sell them for $75, maybe more if they came up with a good sounding name for that tool.

I like it, a much more elegant solution than 'making' the Swiss Army Knife screwdriver work, and a lot safer than trying to use the SAK's awl to turn allen head screws.

 

[Oro]

Almost everybody has a flat blade screwdriver.

Hardly anyone will have an Allen-Wrench when you need one.

Exactly. I went with the allen head type for a decade or so because it was "cool" or "everyone did it." Screws are more practical and I've switched all mine back to them.

BTW: It wasn't designed that way. As a matter of fact, a stock GI grip screw slot is too narrow for a cartridge case rim to be used on it.

Actually, it was. It's only the later GI guns and commercial models that changed the screw design from the dished, wider cut that worked with the rim. Too expensive to machine. I think the change was sometime in the late 1930s or maybe in WWII when so many other processes were cheapened, like the hammers, grips, triggers, and mag catches. Prior screws work with case rims. Compare the pre-WWII parts with the WWII and later parts and you will just be amazed at the differences.

 

[Drail]

Slotted grip screws really shouldn't be getting chewed up unless they are being seriously overtorqued. They don't need to be that tight guys.

 

[Johnny Guest]

Re: Slotted head stock screws - -

BTW: It wasn't designed that way. As a matter of fact, a stock GI grip screw slot is too narrow for a cartridge case rim to be used on it.

This, of course depends on the supplier. Some are wider than others. I've found that the wide bottom lip of the sear spring does a decent job. You need to check in advance and if you have one that's a leetle too wide, a few strokes of a file will adjust it.

While on the subject of improvisations with the 1911-type:
- - An empty .45 case will make a temporary substitute for a lost recoil spring plug.
- - The recoil spring and a bit-o-cloth will usually clear a clogged barrel.
- - A GI-type mainspring housing with lanyard loop interacts with a partly withdrawn magzine to make a dandy bottle cap lifter.
- - If pins for hammer or sear are sticky (rusty? ) the firing pin will ease their removal (gently, please.)

 

[Greg528iT]

I'm ammused by the, can use a shell casing to remove grip screws.

There are enough posts here commenting on idiot marks on our 1911s and yes I have one from the slide catch I'd not want any idiot marks on my grips from a shell casing.

Most grips are cut around the main spring housing pin, thus grip removal is NOT required to strip the weapon of all the moving parts. If you are doing a field strip or further strip at a range, trying to get something cleaned, a jamb freed, why would you need to remove the grips there?

I have a nice set of screw drivers, flat, machined flat (parallel tip), phillips, hex and now torx bits. Aquiring one at home to fully strip my 1911 is just as easy for one as the other.

I've noticed the advent of the bushing wrench. I have one. But, it's not required for a loose clearance army spec 1911. These newer tighter guns, maybe, but not a true open clearance / sloppy gun.

Back to slotted grip screws. YES, they are what Mr Browning originally put into the 1911. In 1908 or so, how many different types of screw heads were available? The Phillips Screw Company did not form until 1934. So was the ability to use casings or main springs, on purpose or accident? I'm going to say, it was a convient coincidence.

So if you want to have a period looking piece, use the flat heads, take the beaver tail off, put Mil sites on.

If you like the modern features, beaver tail for comfort (yes comfort, the standard grip safety tang chafes my tender skin), and you clean your pistol in the comfort of your home or garage, use any screw you want.