What accuracy out of a Ruger 10-22

Status
Not open for further replies.
And some people spend their money putting five Picatinny rails, a "tactical" telescoping stock, a vertical foregrip and a half million candlepower light on a .22 rifle.

To each his own...
See, you could've asked why but you chose to make a snide comment and roll your eyes.

Yes, to each their own. Some decide that they've tried long enough to hold a traditional rifle and a traditional flashlight while trying to dispatch the kinds of critters that get into feed bins and chicken houses at night. Or those that turn your property into a minefield. Or those that make their home under yours and spray their enemies with the most horrendous smell known to mankind. Some decide that maybe they need a more specialized tool for dealing with coons, possums, skunks, armadillos, foxes, minks and coyotes. So they go about designing and building a rifle that does EXACTLY what they need it to.

First thing's first, a mounted light. When you need a mounted light, you need something to mount it to. You also need somewhere to place your weak hand to control it. Picatinny rails, crazy as that may seem, work beautifully for mounting a light and a vertical foregrip from which to control it. The rifle has had several different lights over the several years I've had it in this configuration and it presently wears a Surefire M4, which is actually a good match for the rifle's range. The offset Daniel Defense mount is what works best with the stock.

Telescoping stocks are great for adjusting the length of pull right where you need it. Also makes for an infinitely better place to mount a "tactical" type sling, that's actually useful while the rifle is shouldered, rather than your average carrying strap, which is useless for anything but carrying. Every 10/22 aftermarket stock available was examined and the Tapco fit my needs better than the rest.

Not to mention that red dot sight, which is also infinitely more useful at night than iron sights or a traditional scope. Of course, there are backup iron sights as well, with an XO white stripe post that one can actually see at night. Which turned out to be a good idea because batteries die and I've already had one Strikefire croak. It's also no coincidence that the primary aperture is zeroed at 50yds, while the secondary aperture is dead on at 100yds.

If you look real hard, you'll see an extended Volquartsen picatinny rail that I turned backwards, shortened and milled to clear the Tech Sights rear sight. You'd also see four extra recessed mounting screws to keep it secure, since the rear sight used two of the factory holes. I was also careful to space them properly so that the mount can be turned back around and mounted as intended if the need arose. You might also notice that the entire rifle was blasted with aluminum oxide and refinished in Brownells' olive drab Aluma-Hyde II.

So you see, the rifle you're rolling your eyes at is actually a very deliberately designed and carefully built, specialized tool that has accounted for untold truck loads of midnight marauders, including six skunks in just the last week. Unlike all those millions of AR's that people keep for that "just in case" situation that 99.9999% of them will never see, this rifle actually gets used and often.
 
Slam the guy for laughing at folks who often pile a bunch of crap on a 10/22.... and then slam the AR guys (who also do the same- but you didn't single out the Tacticool branch of that club).


Oh well.


FWIW my 1022 shoots under an inch at 50 yards w CCI or Blazer.
It's 49 yrs old, wears the original bbl and the prev owner bought it new, shot it a ton.

It has no barrel band either ;)

Scope mag max's at 7X.

No tacticool sling.........although the sling attachments are a bit funky (fingergroove model). Does just fine with an old Bucheimer leather on it.
Kills tree rats dead.
 
I did have a newer sporter model that would shift impact, didn't seem sloppy in receiver area.Missed a monster chuck with it by the barn and was so PO'd I sold it.

That yrs ago.

Wanted a FG to match my dad's '66 FG .44 mag.
Unfortunately the one I landed has some scratches in the gripping areas.........

;)

View attachment 740011
 
I modified my Ruger 10-22 with a Freddrickson 16" fluted barrel, Kidd single stage trigger and Hogue over-molded bull barrel stock. With Wolf match target ammo it is consistently 1.2" 10-shot groups at 100 yards. Very satisfying and lots of fun.

The modifications were all simple to accomplish. The Freddrickson barrel is the key in my opinion

Lou
CT, USA
 
OP here with a quick update.
I tried the CCI green tip ammo along with a different scope this past weekend. The rifle did not shoot any better.
I broke it down a few days ago and scrubbed the barrel well. It was not real dirty but I did get some leading out of it.
Does anyone know why Ruger added the barrel band?
It seems the early years did not have the band.
I will remove it next time out if the barrel cleaning shows no improvement.
 
Last edited:
Set it up with a "good" aftermarket barrel (not a cheap one) and it will shoot circles around anything similar.

What charging handle is that??
 
The barrel band has always been on the "standard" model (since '64).
The non barrel band versions were "sporters".
The full stocked were "internationals".

Ruger carried that to the #1 (they had "internationals").
They might have even on some 77's.
The #3 had a barrel band.

The Ruger .44 auto could be had in same configs as 10/22.
Of all, the "sporter" (fingergroove) IMHO looks and feels the best.

They should have done a black synth copy, w checkering, w silver action and stainless bbl...........for the 50th anniv.

I have a #1 RSI............unlike an A model, the bbl is 20" and not 22". On the hunt for an Alex Henry forearm.

Never liked the full stock versions of any Ruger.

But I scored this one at a good price. The Mrs says leave it. If I can't find a forend it'll be a loaner gun (hers or the kids use it).

Nobody touches my 1022 factory checkered piney slayer.
 
FWIW the bbl band on a standard might be of help.
I'd leave it on.
My first std was from '78 and it shot fine (poured a ton of ammo through it).
Had a couple of birch standards that also shot fine (80's models).

If they have better triggers?

There have been some QC issues with 10/22s of late. With everybody doing mods you should be able to get an older "warning" bbl cheap and swap it out if you suspect your newer one to be less than ideal.

Yrs ago a bud had one that shot OK. He did some fire lapping and it actually helped............but then he took it a little past that.

IIRC it now wears a Clark bbl, the no sight sporter w match chamber. They had those cheap some time ago.
 
Accuracy is not very good unless you rebarrel it with a quality barrel like ER Shaw. That, of course, requires replacing the stock. I installed a Power Custom hammer and sear which made the trigger pull a smooth pull to release instead of the jerk the original had. Much cheaper and just as effective as a Volquartsen.

My advice: if you want an accurate semi-auto .22 rifle, buy a Savage 64. They're extremely accurate out of the box without any tweaking. You'll have to dump around $350 into a 10/22 to accurize it, which is way more than the rifle cost originally.
 
Seriously avoid much in the way of false paths and go to Rim Fire Central

I did my own trigger job, modied my own stocks, and swapped the sights for Tech Sights.

As far as mounting a bull barrel on a wood stocked 10/22.......sand out the barrel channel using a long socket from a socket wrench wrapped in sand paper. No need to buy a new stock unless you just want one.

With standard barrels some folks just remove the barrel band. Some file the band out on the inside so it does not touch the barrel. Some bob the nose of the stock the band fits on off and give it various shapes.

Last I checked last month Que was not doing barrels. Not sure who is. They typically cut the breech end of the barrel off a bit then rechamber with a tighter chamber. This mean you will need a little spacer which they provide to install the barrel back.

Seriously, just plan on taking a few hours to go over to Rim Fire Central and pay attention to the "stickys" in the various 10/22 related sections.

-kBob
 
The biggest accuracy factor in .22 rimfire is matching ammo to your gun. CCI tends to shoot well in more guns than most. I don't have a 10-22 but my two Marlins like CCI Mini Mags and CCI Blazer. It hates Winchest Wildcat, Remington Lightning, Rem Hyper Velocity and others I've tried. 2" at 50 yards is not bad for an out of the box production model.
 
I must agree with KBOB,
Rimfire central..........Not saying that the folks here know less, there are a lot of folks on that site who do nothing but 10/22's. they are probably better suited as they are specialist's on the platform.
STW
 
In my opinion, you have not fired enough different brands of ammunition, try more. Try wolf, eley , Aguila, and all the different CCI, rws,federal,fiochhi , and so on.

In my experience try tuning the barrel by tightening the retaining screw in increments . Start at 55 inch pounds, shoot a group, and then increase by one inch pound for every group until you get your best group.

The quickest way is to buy a Kidd barrel.
I built my Magnum Research with a Tony Kidd barrel, VQ trigger group and an OEM Ruger 10/22 target stock. I get .25" groups at 50 yards. Kidd barrels rock.
 
.
Speaking of 10-22's....

Anyone seen the laminate Mannlicher version? Gah. I shouldered one in stainless today... dang. What a sweet-handling, great-looking machine.

1132.jpg

http://www.ruger.com/products/1022Carbine/specSheets/1132.html

It's one of those distributor specials. I put a deposit on it, as it was the only one in the store... and because I've never owned a 10-22. I seem to have gathered a few thousand rounds of .22LR over the last three, lean years. A brick here, a box there... and no standing in line at Walmart! Imagine that. (try finding some .22WMR, though!)
.
 
The be honest 2" groups are pretty decent with a stock 10-22 carbine, I haven't seen a single one at the range that will do much better. Both of the groups below were 50 yards shot with Ely Match, the squares are 1". I got the barrel on sale for around $120 and the stock for $89.

Here's a group with mine as bought with a 3-9 rimfire scope on it:

1022elymatchoriginal.jpg

Here's a group after modification, Green Mountain 18" stainless bull barrel, Fajen stock, I have to admit I also moved a new scope on to it, an 6-20 Weaver Grand Slam:

1022elymatchimproved.jpg

I've since upgraded it with a VQ trigger but no group pictures since then.
 
Accuracy is not very good unless you rebarrel it with a quality barrel like ER Shaw. That, of course, requires replacing the stock. I installed a Power Custom hammer and sear which made the trigger pull a smooth pull to release instead of the jerk the original had. Much cheaper and just as effective as a Volquartsen.

My advice: if you want an accurate semi-auto .22 rifle, buy a Savage 64. They're extremely accurate out of the box without any tweaking. You'll have to dump around $350 into a 10/22 to accurize it, which is way more than the rifle cost originally.


Apparently you didn't even bother reading the thread or even look at the pretty pictures showing outstanding accuracy from unmodified 10/22's.

Instead you chose to just shill for Savage.
 
I can't report on paper targets, but I hope this is interesting.

I won't get personal with anyone. Just want to share my own experience.
My ancient 10/22 is the standard rifle with 20" barrel, purchase used with
a cheap Ram Line plastic stock, the one with the folding buttstock.
I added a $24 BSA scope from Kmart in ordinary Weaver rings.

At our favorite desert camping spot, there is a dead tree 77 yards from the fire pit.
For some reason, pigeons like that tree. With Aguila sub-sonic ammo
and holding the rifle in a Lead Sled rifle rest on a folding bench,
we pick off pigeons when they alight on the branches.
Usually 30 kills out of every box of 50 rounds. It takes all day.
A fully wasted day, and we have so much fun doing it!

Three years ago I bought a used 16" barrel from another THR member,
I don't recall his name. I replaced the longer barrel and took it camping.
It now gets closer to 40 kills per 50 rounds of the same ammo.

I mention this for the OP solman. He asked a reasonable question,
I wanted to share my own experience with it. Sometimes the Ruger barrel
will shoot perfectly well. Sometimes not. You have to explore it yourself.
 
All this talk about 10/22's I had to try it out.. Never owned one in 4 decades of shooting..:what: (My Glenfield 60 has served me well all that time)

now what to stick on that threaded bull barrel. hmmmmmm

962AB26B-2957-49BE-A37F-18ABAE7BEB20_zpszbw8cgxd.gif
 
Quite a few years ago I purchased a 10-22 at a local pawn shop for $50. The owner said it came back frequently as everyone said it would not hit anything. I set up a target and it would not hit the thing at around 75 feet. I then set up a big piece of cardboard and shot at it. Point of impact was a foot low and about three feet left from where I was aiming. I could not get the factory sights to even get close before I ran out of adjustment. BUT when I fired a 25 round MAG at the target it made a ragged hole the size of a quarter where it hit. I was going to get an aftermarket barrel but a local gunsmith had an OEM SS barrel takeoff for $25 and I figured I would try that first. Once I had it set up for 75 YDS and I did my part off the bench I could keep it inside a tennis ball sized stick on target all day long with iron sights and 555 bulk Federal ammo. I am happy with that.:D One day I MIGHT try some more slide in goodies to see if it is any better but I have several other good .22's (a couple older late 40's Mossberg semis especially)that are better shooters so I do not feel that tug presently.;)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top