Sweet Agony
Member
Just now getting back to reading some of these. And this one is on my list to try first thing tomorrow !! Thanks.
What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?
- Thread starter James THR
- Start date
RainDodger
Member
For those using a "WFT" (World's Finest Trimmer)... they can be a bit awkward if used in a drill press, so I bought a flex-shaft with a chuck on the end. I chuck up the WFT and that allows me to sit with a bucket of brass in front of me, and hold the WFT in any position I want. Much easier than standing!
Sorry if it's been mentioned...
Sorry if it's been mentioned...
dickttx
Member
For me the hardest part of disassembling/assembling a 1911 has been the mainspring housing. Yesterday I stumbled onto something that made it much easier. I already had the bench block and the double ended bit from an electric drill is just the right length.
Lost Sheep
Member
There have been reports of using a standard shell holder (in an intertial bullet puller) resulting in ignition of the primer. Some say that igniting the primer in this way is impossible.
I cannot say one way or the other.
Even if ignition is not possible, I wear eye and ear protection. Just the strike of the bullet puller makes my ears ring, so...... And I have heard of chips from the impact flying around even without an ignition.
Good luck. Be safe, always, all ways.
Lost Sheep
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Put a nickel or other coin under the Hornady Lock'n'Load AP's primer plunger/seater because after 2000 rounds you'll have a dimple there that will make seating primers a much larger pain than it needs to be. I think I got this tip from here but the thread is entirely too many pages.
Two nickels taped together under the LnL case feeder's pivot arm drop (I don't know the proper part name) will allow the arm to properly pivot and drop cases.
Taping a business card to the press-facing case feeder drop chute will prevent a lot of cases from bouncing off and interrupting your run.
Also, 500x.223 bullets will fit comfortably in a 1-1/4-cup Rubbermaid container. 500x9mm cases will fit in a 5-cup Rubbermaid container.
Two nickels taped together under the LnL case feeder's pivot arm drop (I don't know the proper part name) will allow the arm to properly pivot and drop cases.
Taping a business card to the press-facing case feeder drop chute will prevent a lot of cases from bouncing off and interrupting your run.
Also, 500x.223 bullets will fit comfortably in a 1-1/4-cup Rubbermaid container. 500x9mm cases will fit in a 5-cup Rubbermaid container.
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LBEE
Member
Static in Powder Measure
When I have trouble with Static in my Powder Measure I just use a Dryer Sheet
Works Great & it's Quick.
When I have trouble with Static in my Powder Measure I just use a Dryer Sheet
Works Great & it's Quick.
Lee Loadall bushing change trick.
Ok! Great stuff! I read many posts and skip read the others.
I've got one to add. Changing out the charge bushings on the Loadall is a pain in the butt if you do it the factory suggested way by dumping the shot and powder. I lost a night's sleep thinking about it. If there was a way to turn the machine over and not dump the shot and powder, then pulling the charge bar and changing the bushings would be painless. I thought of a hundred ways of keeping the lid on while turning the machine over but I still wanted something easy and inexpensive. Early morning nature called and I was still thinking about holding the lid on. Then I reached for the TP. That's it! That's so simple it just might work!
It works great. First thing, drop the powder charge and have the charge bar to the right. The shot will flow back into the hopper easily when tipped back. I found placing a paper table napkin under the lid made a better seal. Shove the roll of TP under the handle so it keeps lid tight. I found that I didn't need to turn the loader upside down. Simply laying it on its back was enough for the powder and shot to flow away from the drop holes. Now pull the charge bar and change the bushings.
Ok! Great stuff! I read many posts and skip read the others.
I've got one to add. Changing out the charge bushings on the Loadall is a pain in the butt if you do it the factory suggested way by dumping the shot and powder. I lost a night's sleep thinking about it. If there was a way to turn the machine over and not dump the shot and powder, then pulling the charge bar and changing the bushings would be painless. I thought of a hundred ways of keeping the lid on while turning the machine over but I still wanted something easy and inexpensive. Early morning nature called and I was still thinking about holding the lid on. Then I reached for the TP. That's it! That's so simple it just might work!
It works great. First thing, drop the powder charge and have the charge bar to the right. The shot will flow back into the hopper easily when tipped back. I found placing a paper table napkin under the lid made a better seal. Shove the roll of TP under the handle so it keeps lid tight. I found that I didn't need to turn the loader upside down. Simply laying it on its back was enough for the powder and shot to flow away from the drop holes. Now pull the charge bar and change the bushings.
Attachments
Lee Loadall primer catch jar
All the posts that showed solving the primer carch and retain problem gave me the encouragement to correct a problem that exists with the Lee Loadall. As users know, the expelled primers fall under the base of the Loadall and have to be dug out fairly often.
The breakthrough was the discovery that a 45/70 case would just slip fit perfectly in the primer hole in the base of the base. I rummage through my junk brass to find a donner case. As luck would have it, I found a case with the base separated. Even more luck to find the case was nearly perfect length to reach from mounting board to top of deprime station.
I drilled a 7/16" hole through mounting board. I already had a hole through the bench top that would align.
I had saved a vitamin C bottle because I knew it would come in handy someday. I drilled a 7/16" hole in the center of the top and widened it out to about 1/2" with rasp. I drilled thee holes for drywall screws.
Works perfect!
All the posts that showed solving the primer carch and retain problem gave me the encouragement to correct a problem that exists with the Lee Loadall. As users know, the expelled primers fall under the base of the Loadall and have to be dug out fairly often.
The breakthrough was the discovery that a 45/70 case would just slip fit perfectly in the primer hole in the base of the base. I rummage through my junk brass to find a donner case. As luck would have it, I found a case with the base separated. Even more luck to find the case was nearly perfect length to reach from mounting board to top of deprime station.
I drilled a 7/16" hole through mounting board. I already had a hole through the bench top that would align.
I had saved a vitamin C bottle because I knew it would come in handy someday. I drilled a 7/16" hole in the center of the top and widened it out to about 1/2" with rasp. I drilled thee holes for drywall screws.
Works perfect!
splattergun
Member
I like that idea. ^ I've been intending to do something similar. Until I find the 'round to it' and get it done, I just use a jar lid about 1 1/4" dia. in the space under the deprime station, and empty it about every 15-20 primers.
Armored farmer
Member
Im not sure if this is worthy, but i built an empty shell catcher.
It is made by bending a coat hanger into a loop and bending some hooks to hold a Walmart bag. Then I attached a magnet to the hook.
I stick the magnet to a metal post where i normally practice my shooting..... no more crawling around looking for brass.
I have a pic but it wont load for some reason, but you get the idea.
It is made by bending a coat hanger into a loop and bending some hooks to hold a Walmart bag. Then I attached a magnet to the hook.
I stick the magnet to a metal post where i normally practice my shooting..... no more crawling around looking for brass.
I have a pic but it wont load for some reason, but you get the idea.
Wreck-n-Crew
Member
I did not invent the idea but it is easy to make a case ejector for a single stage LEE press http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-dHq0An2AU
I used a coat hanger and bent it to shape instead. After drilling the hole I bolted it on and adjusted it. Works great. It really speeds up the process to almost double production.
Some pictures of mine:
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f153/recncru1/IMG_20140101_144906_0.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f153/recncru1/IMG_20140101_144822_0.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f153/recncru1/IMG_20140101_144834_0.jpg
I used a coat hanger and bent it to shape instead. After drilling the hole I bolted it on and adjusted it. Works great. It really speeds up the process to almost double production.
Some pictures of mine:
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f153/recncru1/IMG_20140101_144906_0.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f153/recncru1/IMG_20140101_144822_0.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f153/recncru1/IMG_20140101_144834_0.jpg
Lost Sheep
Member
Half-height adjustable charge bar
I "discovered" this on "The High Road" and thought it should appear here, too.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=741097
It is a BRILLIANT melding of the Micro-Disk and the Adjustable Charge Bar.
Kudos to Leadchucker
Thanks
Lost Sheep
I "discovered" this on "The High Road" and thought it should appear here, too.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=741097
It is a BRILLIANT melding of the Micro-Disk and the Adjustable Charge Bar.
Kudos to Leadchucker
Thanks
Lost Sheep
Andrew Leigh
Member
This,
have improved on it making holes in the board in front of the dies for the case holders rather than hanging them on pins. Will complete the new version tomorrow.
have improved on it making holes in the board in front of the dies for the case holders rather than hanging them on pins. Will complete the new version tomorrow.
NeuseRvrRat
Member
i never understood the die racks folks make. i much prefer to keep them in the boxes. they're clearly labeled. stack neatly on a shelf. no dust gathering on my dies and i'm able to close a little homemade desiccant pack in each box to help prevent rust.
35 Whelen
Member
Bought this 40 lb. bag of corn cob media and I:
1) Will not need to buy media for decades to come.
2) Saved a LOT of money as shipping was free when I bought it.
3) Will NEVER, EVER have to clean media from primer flash holes again!
Made this...
...on a old lathe out of common hardware store bolts and now have a virtually unlimited supply of .30 caliber gas checks made from aluminum "Garage Sale" signs. Can make about 500 from a $2.00 sign.
35W
1) Will not need to buy media for decades to come.
2) Saved a LOT of money as shipping was free when I bought it.
3) Will NEVER, EVER have to clean media from primer flash holes again!
Made this...
...on a old lathe out of common hardware store bolts and now have a virtually unlimited supply of .30 caliber gas checks made from aluminum "Garage Sale" signs. Can make about 500 from a $2.00 sign.
35W
Andrew Leigh
Member
The dies are not stored like this. When I start a reloading session (which may take two or three days) I place all the dies in the holder for convenience, they are packed away at the end of the session.
Busyhands94
Member
I'm liking that gas check cutter, I'd definitely like to figure out how to make one! 
I found that grits from Wallmart make a good tumbling media, and they are cheap too.
An empty .223 or 5.56 casing works nicely for belling the mouth of a .30-30 cartridge, that's what I use and it makes seating that bullet nice and straight a lot easier.
Lemon pledge works great for sizing lube, that's what I use to size my cases.
I found that grits from Wallmart make a good tumbling media, and they are cheap too.
An empty .223 or 5.56 casing works nicely for belling the mouth of a .30-30 cartridge, that's what I use and it makes seating that bullet nice and straight a lot easier.
Lemon pledge works great for sizing lube, that's what I use to size my cases.
J_McLeod
Member
I put a small cork from the hardware store in my LNL primer tube. When it gets full I pull the cork and empty the tube into the scrap brass bag.
Two things for the Dillon 650 (and no, I haven't gone back and looked at all the forty-odd pages in this thread, so if they've already been done, sorry):
1. Light on the subject, applies to any reloading press. Lots of people want to hardwire a light into their setups, which is fine, but I prefer the cheap little LED light illustrated, from Amazon. Three AAA batteries power the LED for a LONG time, and the gooseneck allows the light to shine where it's needed. The whole thing just clips to the black upright tube....
2. The "primers on the floor" problem, where a certain number end up on the floor, rather than in Dillon's misbegotten primer cup. {CAVEAT: My Dillon sits on a Strong Mount, so there may not be clearance for a press that is bolted directly to the bench.} There are some pretty creative solutions out there to this problem, but mine isn't. What works perfectly is a .303 British case (some Aussie put up a YT video on this) under the primer discharge, with no alterations needed. I drilled out the case head with a 5/16 drill. Then I just backed out the two hex-head screws holding the Dillon primer cup bracket in place, no need to remove the bracket. The case is rimmed, so the rim just slides in between the loosened bracket and the press frame. Retighten screws, then just put a piece of 7/16 OD / 5/16 ID vinyl in the appropriate length to reach your bottle, bucket, etc. This size tubing is cheap, widely available, and is a perfect interference fit on the case neck of the .303. You may have to hunt down a .303 British case (one guy said he used .45 Colt), but I was lucky in that I had both the case and an old piece of the correct tubing. Good to go, minimal effort.
1. Light on the subject, applies to any reloading press. Lots of people want to hardwire a light into their setups, which is fine, but I prefer the cheap little LED light illustrated, from Amazon. Three AAA batteries power the LED for a LONG time, and the gooseneck allows the light to shine where it's needed. The whole thing just clips to the black upright tube....
2. The "primers on the floor" problem, where a certain number end up on the floor, rather than in Dillon's misbegotten primer cup. {CAVEAT: My Dillon sits on a Strong Mount, so there may not be clearance for a press that is bolted directly to the bench.} There are some pretty creative solutions out there to this problem, but mine isn't. What works perfectly is a .303 British case (some Aussie put up a YT video on this) under the primer discharge, with no alterations needed. I drilled out the case head with a 5/16 drill. Then I just backed out the two hex-head screws holding the Dillon primer cup bracket in place, no need to remove the bracket. The case is rimmed, so the rim just slides in between the loosened bracket and the press frame. Retighten screws, then just put a piece of 7/16 OD / 5/16 ID vinyl in the appropriate length to reach your bottle, bucket, etc. This size tubing is cheap, widely available, and is a perfect interference fit on the case neck of the .303. You may have to hunt down a .303 British case (one guy said he used .45 Colt), but I was lucky in that I had both the case and an old piece of the correct tubing. Good to go, minimal effort.
Attachments
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oldfortyfiveauto
Member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2008
- Messages
- 488
TenDriver
Member
So far I've discovered that Dollar Tree is your friend. For $2 I got a handy little media separator. Buy their red plastic Betty Crocker colander and drill the holes a little bigger. Put that in their big green salad bowl, fill it up with the contents of your tumbler and shake.
They also sell these small plastic baskets in packs of five that are great for sorting brass.
On to Home Depot: Wire pulling lube at $8 / quart is excellent sizing lube. I figure that one quart will probably get passed down to my grandkids. One nice part about it is if you get it on a case shoulder it is fluid enough to squirt out the vent hole without denting the shoulder.
9mm ammo trays work great as loading blocks for 9mm and 223 shells. 44 mag trays work great for anything requiring a #2 shellholder.
They also sell these small plastic baskets in packs of five that are great for sorting brass.
On to Home Depot: Wire pulling lube at $8 / quart is excellent sizing lube. I figure that one quart will probably get passed down to my grandkids. One nice part about it is if you get it on a case shoulder it is fluid enough to squirt out the vent hole without denting the shoulder.
9mm ammo trays work great as loading blocks for 9mm and 223 shells. 44 mag trays work great for anything requiring a #2 shellholder.
1SOW
Member
The jar lid "spent primer catcher" is neat.
Another easy-to-do catcher is to cut the top 4"-5" off a 1# powder jug--cap and all. Fold flats over on the cut end, to staple it under the hole. "Fill-er-up" (thousandsd) then just unscrew the cap to discard the primers. Put the cap back on and you're ready to go again.
The 1# jugs with funnel-shaped tops and smaller caps (Like Vit), really work well.
Another easy-to-do catcher is to cut the top 4"-5" off a 1# powder jug--cap and all. Fold flats over on the cut end, to staple it under the hole. "Fill-er-up" (thousandsd) then just unscrew the cap to discard the primers. Put the cap back on and you're ready to go again.
The 1# jugs with funnel-shaped tops and smaller caps (Like Vit), really work well.
