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What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by James THR, Aug 28, 2006.

  1. Mauser lover

    Mauser lover Member

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    Big clamps directly on the press to the top of my bench is how I regularly attach one of my presses. Murf beat me to it, but I put two big clamps on the base of an old single stage when I use it. My other press is "permanently" attached to the bench with bolts etc.
     
  2. dgod
    • Contributing Member

    dgod Contributing Member

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    I have been using 2 tools that I think are very hand. both are available with free trial. 1 is a Firearm Inventory application, and the other is a Reloader Application that will access your firearms to bring general firearm info into the reloading database.

    Give Joe a shout, http://www.burnsoft.net/, tell him Dan sent you.
     
  3. Tilos

    Tilos Member

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    Coupling nut risers under a Pro 1000
    Who designs a press that dumps spent primers out under the press...Lee that's who
    I used coupling nuts as risers to get room to put a container under the press.
    The mounting bolts are 1/4x20 so I used 5/16 coupling nuts.
    I have to loosen all bolts, and remove one to get the container out.
    IMG_0975.JPG
    I use coupling nuts to attach the press plate too, gives me a place to attach other stuff.
    :D
     
    sparkyv and Saw-Bones like this.
  4. Tilos

    Tilos Member

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    Standard Press Mount

    I had a bench with presses all lined up but found I did a lot of walking back and forth to get tools and use the scale.
    Now I only have one press mounted and swap it out when I want to use a different press, so all the tools and scale are within reach.
    I bought these 6"x6"x1/4" thick plates ($4 ea.) and bolted one under each press to give me a standard bolt pattern for all presses, for easy swap out.
    My bench is actually a cabineto_O
    IMG_0904.JPG IMG_0915.JPG IMG_0916.JPG IMG_0907.JPG
    The third/rear bolt makes for a rock solid mount of all presses so far.
    :D
     
  5. dgod
    • Contributing Member

    dgod Contributing Member

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    I must be doing something wrong or at least different. I use Crushed Walnuts, I add about a teaspoon full of Brasso, and usually add about 300 cases at a time. I let it run for 1 1/2 - 2 Hours, then I check it, and the Brass is usually ready for me to go to work on it, Removing Primers & Sizing. I am seeing individuals that are running their brass substantially longer. Is it the Brasso that is making that much difference in time running??
     
  6. kingmt

    kingmt Member

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    Yes. It's also making your brass hard & weak.
     
  7. Blue68f100

    Blue68f100 Member

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    Like said, Brasso attacks the Zinc in the brass weakening it. I would recommend you switch to a different polish.
     
  8. Cannibul

    Cannibul Member

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    Get some Nu-Finish car polish. It works like a champ and doesn't weaken the brass.
     
  9. enloe

    enloe Member

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    I love Nu Finish.
    I put about a cap full on my tumbler and it works great.
     
    Z28roc likes this.
  10. Tilos

    Tilos Member

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    Back to tips/tricks/discoveries...
    Drill Press De-Priming
    I watched utube vids of this setup posted by NotAnExpert, and decided to try it.

    Two fender washers stacked and attached to a 1x4 board, clamped over a 2x4 with a big cavity to catch the primers.
    The top washer has a hole drilled to the size of the relative caliber/ case, and is used to center the case under the pin.
    The de-primer pin/holder is from a unused die, chucked into the drill press spindle.
    IMG_0968.JPG
    FendWashers.JPG
    Base/2x4/primer reservoir/duct tape across the bottom
    BottomBlock.JPG
    Blocks/1x4/other calibers
    AllCalibers.JPG
    *note: the drill press is not running during de-prime!!

    NotAnExpert has a lot of mod/fix vids on the Pro 1000, some are great but I found many to be way too complex for the average reloader though.
    His de-prime vid

    As you can see, I simplified the punch/pin and other stuff.
    The longer pin allows me to "hold onto the case while de-priming, whereas he needs to let go of it, to get his hand out of the way.
    :D
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2017
    DRAINSMITH likes this.
  11. dgod
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    dgod Contributing Member

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    OK, I got the message, I'll park the Brasso in favor of Nu-Finish. Thanks for the Feedback...
     
  12. Bullseye

    Bullseye Member

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    I have recently found that holding a large flat open end wrench in my one hand and using my impact bullet pulling hammer in the other beats the heck out of whacking the concrete or metal bench surface.
    I suppose other implements may work. Maybe even the business end of a hammer?
    I just happened to want to pull some bullets one night and tried to be a little quieter and I discovered that not only was it a bit quieter. I could actually "feel" how much of a whack was needed to get the bullets loose.
    I don't have three hands so I had to take a pic this way.

    View attachment 229892
     
    Wreck-n-Crew likes this.
  13. trixter

    trixter Member

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    Where E. Pine St. crosses I-5, OREGON
    As we all know, when you buy or acquire 223 brass, some of the primer pockets have a crimp on then. I used to run all of them through my press using the RCBS primer pocket swager on a single stage press, but then I bought a cutter for my RCBS Trim Mate and used it on all primer pockets. Recently I have been skipping that step until I try to press in the primer in on my Lee Classic Cast Turret Press, when I feel too much resistance (before any damage occurs), remove the case, turn on the Trim Mate and cut it as needed, then reinstall the case in the press and insert primer. It saves me a lot of time and eliminates a boring step in the process.
     
  14. Paddy

    Paddy Member

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    Scored a wine rack off CL and it's now my working powder holder. I'll fix labels to the lids so I can see what's what.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Hokie_PhD

    Hokie_PhD Member

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    Neat idea if you're doing a lot of bass at a time
    I use a Lee hand press to deprime while I'm relaxing watching sports on TV
    But I could see this as very worthwhile if I start shooting more as planned
     
  16. Tilos

    Tilos Member

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    DIY Precision Dies

    I know they sell "precision micrometer" dies and powder measure spindles, but I have found this method, using a Dial Caliper just as accurate.

    I often use the neglected "depth gage" feature on the back of every Dial Caliper to set my seating dies, powder measures, etc.
    I record these reference measurements/settings in my reloading log and use them to get back when I am duplicating a prior load.
    They don't just get me close but in fact are spot-on for seating depth and powder weight.(at my level of accuracy for pistol ammo [​IMG]).
    With most reloaders already having a Dial or Digital Caliper, it's a no brainer [​IMG].
    Pics:
    Bullet Seater
    [​IMG]
    RCBS powder measure, I removed the dome from the screw for a more accurate measurement.
    [​IMG]
    Lee Auto Drum, a little tricky but can be done
    [​IMG]
    .
    [​IMG]
     
  17. The Remnant

    The Remnant Member

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    Location:
    Wyoming
    I ain't smart enough to invent anything but I got tired of fiddling with the tiny Allen wrenches on my LNL. To save my slightly arthritic hands, I found this set of wrenches on Amazon.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00063YMVY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    It has all the sizes you need for a LNL & the 3/8" one is long enough to stick through the hole in the top of the frame so switching shell plates is now a breeze. The handles make loosening & tightening MUCH easier.
     
  18. ClayinAR

    ClayinAR Member

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    Aug 14, 2008
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    Steve, I just use magnets out of failed hard drives to hold my tools. They are neodymium magnets. Of course the have to be on something steel or iron, like a strong mount. No muss, no fuss. No drilling , just stick 'em where you want your tools. If you want to attach to aluminum or something just super glue the magnet where you want it.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2017
  19. Dudedog
    • Contributing Member

    Dudedog Contributing Member

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    Paddy,
    Sweet wine rack:)
     
  20. Dudedog
    • Contributing Member

    Dudedog Contributing Member

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    Yup, nice magnets, I have more of them than I care for however:)

    I have some special reloading hard drive magnets, the ones from the drive with my chron data......

    :cuss: where is that backup???
     
    Toprudder likes this.
  21. Decoy80

    Decoy80 Member

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    NE Mississippi
    The knowledge gained by reading these pages gives me hope that the youth in our country do have a chance. In the time spent just reading the posts I have realized just how simple the fix is for the most complex problems handloading. If our leaders would use simple solutions to our complex government problems imagine the good works that could be done. Thanks to all of the members for sharing these ideas with little old me.
     
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  22. Skinnedknuckles

    Skinnedknuckles Member

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    Jul 3, 2011
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    One of the things I learned early on (but never soon enough) was the importance of getting graphite on the sliding surfaces of powder measures. My first measure got lubricated from the graphite on the powder going through the measure, causing me some problems I didn't understand at the time until it got lubricated enough. After learning what had happened, I tried using powdered graphite on my next powder measure. It worked after a fashion, but what a mess!

    I recently discovered spray graphite dry lubricant (in a can) and while it can also be very messy it is easier to apply and be sure it is on the surfaces you want lubricated. I recommend wearing nitrile gloves and carefully masking what you don't want covered before spraying, but you can clean up overspray with a solvent like Gun Scrubber on a rag. The picture shows the inside of a Lee Auto Drum powder measure I sprayed. I also sprayed the drum surfaces. I spray internal parts of the powder through dies as well, after thoroughly degreasing them.

    IMG_1749.JPG
     
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  23. GW Staar

    GW Staar Member

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    For Older Tireder Eyes .... Meanstreak permanent paint markers.....found at your local office supply or Amazon. MeanStreak by Sharpie
    Wipe off with mineral spirits soaked paper towel or rag.


    177924-ec37058f0bb1c3191beb50361aa1dd09.jpg

    Add some cold blue to unblued parts for better contrast. Below:
    177926-46b834245be241c552ffc16d7ae7cae9.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 8, 2018
  24. Louca

    Louca Member

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    When I hand loaded for only .45 ACP and .223, everything was fine until I added 9mm. It was a pain to tell the difference between the shell holders for 9mm and .223. So, I just put an 1/8-inch board in the bottom of a storage unit tray, with vertical posts to drop the shell holders onto. Identification on the posts identifies the caliber associated with the shell holder: "4" means .45 ACP; "2" means .223; and "9" means 9mm.

    [​IMG]

    GW Star, you have a great post that has inspired me to consider using bluing on some things. In your post above, did you use a white marker for the lettering? (If so, I didn't know they made white markers!) Also, will solvents clean out the coloring if the piece is cleaned?
     
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  25. tcoz

    tcoz Member

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    I write the caliber on the shell holder with a Sharpie. It rubs off during use then I just write it again before storage.
     
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