Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by James THR, Aug 28, 2006.
My Dad made one of those in wood for his Ruger Old Army back in '76.
Well.... here goes.
When working the kinks out of a vibratory ramp to loading primer tubes, I came up with a overflow for the primers and a switch gate to alternate between tubes. If the operator got distracted, the overflow ran the primers into a catch basin that was larger than the capacity of the vibrator.
Bullets dropped nose first into loading tubes from the vibrating ramps, and the operators had to invert the tubes to put them into the sizer. Since the tubes were about 4 feet long, it was a chore. I came up with a little water wheel gizmo to feed directly from the vibrating ramps into the sizer, eliminating the tubes completely. Bullets dropped into a chamber on the wheel, and it rotated slowly to fill a stationary tube on the sizer - with a limit switch that would shut off the wheel when the tube was full.
I see today there's a thing called a bulge buster. Have not the need these days, so have not tried one. Back in the day, when I loaded 9mm range brass on an AmmoCrafter, I had our ace-in-the-hole machinist rework the carbide die, and shell plate for the AmmoCrafter. He was able to shorten the carbide sizer to eliminate most of the feed-in bell on the carbide insert. Then we reworked the shell plates to eliminate some of the space above the groove on the case, effectively pushing the case further into a die that had been reworked to "squeeze more". That got our jams from bulged cases down to almost (but not quite) nothin'. The 9's were the worst. That tapered case smears brass down every time you size one, and at the time, people were going thru all sorts of efforts to get hollow points to feed on ramps designed for full metal jackets - a lot of bubba ramps with some bulging there too. Some of you may remember the ramps with a hump in the middle on High Power's and some of the S&W 39/59 barrels among others.
Not a reloading item, but I built a rotary jig for 1911 sears so they could be cut at a radius as a starting point for trigger work - many schools of thought there, so don't flame me on it! It worked for me, and my customers, and lasted well.
Not my idea, but our machine expert had a welder he knew fire up some beads on the end of screws that we could put in a vice grip that had been threaded and reworked. The bead was to set the flange on the old Millet sights, and get away from their ridiculous tool.
There were lots of little things in the shop that grew out of frustration or just the need for something that was too damn expensive, or worse, expensive and not made worth a damn on the "commercial" market.
I’m learning my Dillon RL1100 and was trying to figure out how to hold back the case feed plunger so I didn’t cycle new cases. Reloading innovations sells a nylon tool that clips on but I needed something like now. I pulled back the plunger and noticed the gap looked like a 9mm case - voila! Problem solved.
That is a great idea
I had loaded and crimped about 10 pistol bullets too long for my chamber. I didn't want to use the bullet hammer to pull them. Since they were cast lead, I just cut a 2" length of PVC pipe, dropped it over the press ram, put the round in the shell holder, then used a large pair of wire cutters to hold the bullet while I lowered the ram. Pulled all the bullets in less than a minute. Case, primer and powder were reused. Bullets went back into the lead pot. For rifle, just use a longer piece of PVC pipe to suit your cartridge length.
Modified my brass sorting tray to make it easier to separate 357 mag from 38 special brass. I made standoffs out of 1/4” carriage bolts, washers and nuts. I adjusted the bolts so the 38 spl just rises above the bottom of the the tray, which makes the 357mag stand proud of the 38 brass. Any 38 S&W that happens to be in the mix will be in full contact with the tray.
A few twists by hand of a 3/16 drill bit inside a small primer pickup tubes 'lips' sure makes it a lot easier pick up those primers.
For pouring powder a short wide funnel is very handy. The short taper helps to prevent overfilling and the wide opening is perfect for pouring from 4/8 pound powder jugs. Mine is made by Rhino, but it looks like it now made by Hopkins, their 10703 FloTool Spill Saver Radiator Funnel is the same thing.
Here's the one I use, complete with Item #.
Same as the one I use.
I have one of these and it works like a charm: https://www.grafs.com/catalog/product/productId/5565
No muss,no fuss.
Not my idea, but my Dad's
If one looks in the upper right hand corner of this screenshot of my reloading "bench", there is a wrist pin of a large engine piston and connecting rod.
When I inherited my Dad's reloading stuff almost 28 years ago, I had no idea why this heavy piece of metal was in the cabinet........
Well, I have figured out two very good uses for it.
#1. Makes a good backstop for a kinetic hammer!
#2. The ends are perfectly flat so it does make an easy, quick check to insure primers are set flush or below! (Set primed cartridge on it, duh...)
Rest in peace, Dad!!!
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