What does it take to punch an engine block?

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As it happens, I have a junk (spun the bearings) GM 3800 V6 engine block in my parents garage, and a Mosin....gotta wait for hunting season to end though, and figure out how to get the engine to the back half of the property.
 
Chipperman- engines are not generally made of aluminum, I would suspect an older Civic would most certainly be made of cast iron. Aluminum is usually used in performance applications where longer life is traded for higher compression, most cars have alum cylinder heads now, but blocks are mostly cast iron.

More blocks are aluminum than cast iron these days.

A friend of mine drove his Toyota for a week after draining the oil, and not replacing it.

BS. If you understood the reationship between oil and moving parts in an engine, you wouldn't believe this for a minute. Oil isn't just a lubricant; it is a bearing surface. Without oil pressure, you have direct metal on metal contact of crank and rod bearings. I've been around long enough to see a number of GMT's leave oil out of engines. They seldom make it a mile.

To the original topic, most any rifle round has enough energy to get through the water jacket of an exposed engine block. Powerful handguns can also break through. This does not equal an instant stop; it'll take awhile for the engine to overheat to the point of seizure. The problem with actually getting into the cylinder bores is that there is some distance bnetween the jacket and bore, and the bullet is deflected significantly by the initial impact. That said, the bullet does not necessarily need to enter the bore to cause the engine to stop.

A shop I was at a few years ago got a very interesting job. Seems that a hunter ignored the rules and common sense of unloading a rifle in the vehicle. The vehicle owner's hunting buddy had placed the muzzle of his rifle against the floor board of his new Dodge Ram, on the passenger side just to the right of the transmission hump. Well, it discharged, went through the floor, poked through the water jacket and deformed the bore on the #8 cylinder; instant stop. His primary concern was that we get it fixed before he was due home so his wife didn't find out. Don't know the caliber of the rifle that was used. I would guess a .300 WM or so.

It really doesn't take that much to fracture a water jacket. ~1/4" cast iron on most older small blocks; I've done it with a 3 pound 18" mini sledgehammer. That siad, I wouldn't bet my life on a one-shot stop of an engine in a vehicle with any title 1 firearm. Not even a .50. Lots of obstructions and funny angles thrown into the mix.
 
any military caliber rifle will stop a car
had a friend who owned a cascal in .stupid cal claimed the SAS were experimenting with them for tactical use in stopping cars :rolleyes: probably did own a couple on the grounds we have loads of cash what looks cool and what can we get the junior officer to shoot for a laugh:evil:
 
Fella's;

Way too many variables in the proposed situation to provide anything more than an anectodal episode. Absolutes are out the window.

Block material. Reinforced areas on the block. Accessories between the shooter and the block - are you sure you know where the alternator is? Body material, is it steel, what gauge? Again with the reinforced areas, this time of the body material. McPherson strut, what's that? Who put it there? And on, and on.

900F
 
Easy way to kill a modern car with the hood up. Nail it right on a fuel injector or fuel rail. Might give off a nice fireball too. On the block aim right for the oil filter or the midpoint of the valve cover.
 
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