entropy
Member
No, they were fine, 29.5" full and fuller. I told him it went against my better judgement, but that's what he wanted.
What gunsmithing or repairs have you done today
- Thread starter troy fairweather
- Start date
No, they were fine, 29.5" full and fuller. I told him it went against my better judgement, but that's what he wanted.
Jim Watson
Member
I had my old Verney Caron's forcing cones reamed and chokes reduced to Skeet and Not Much for CAS, but never considered shortening them.
Riomouse911
Member
Beat me to it, Troy! I had the same question.
When I had the barrels of my LeFever 16 ga SxS cut down (the ends were badly pitted) there was a gap that the gunsmith filled in with sort of a grayish material. I don’t know what it is but its been there for ages. (I thought it was JB Weld but it has held up for years so it may be something tougher than that.)Stay safe.
EMC45
Member
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- Jul 20, 2008
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Heated the front ring again tonight and kroil was applied. It started clicking and pinging and I thought for sure it was starting to break the bond. The nut on my u bolt wrench stripped right off so I took it all down and gave it another rest. Next up I'm gonna weld the barrel to the vise so it won't slip and I will get back after it. The vise is trashed anyway....
Mauser fan
Member
So the barrel still won't budge?
Here is a link to the seller that I bought my barrel vise from. BARREL VISE W/5 INSERTS GUNSMITH FACTORY SECOND +++Opens in a new window or tab I use it and it just works so well in-fact I have been able to clamp in two type 99 Arisaka barrels and place a 4 foot cheater pipe on the end of my action wrench to successfully remove them from the barrels.
The seller also makes replacement aluminum inserts if needed and sells them separately.
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troy fairweather
Member
Lgs went down to $350 for the pre 64 model 70 Winchester he has, I think I may buy it for a future project making it a 280ai. It breaks my heart what happened to this rifle. Story I got the original owner had Dementia or something and when to town on it, this is a supergrade by the way. Stock was cut up and some parts are missing, then he took what must have been a welding slag chipping hammer and bashed the barrel about 100 times just above the chamber area where the barrel starts sizing down. Then it sat for some time. Unfortunately the stock and some parts were never found of course some pricy stuff that bring big money.
From what I remember that is still there is, the barreled action, complete bolt, trigger guard, may box, trigger, action screws, maybe some other stuff I can't remember. The floorplate and hinge is missing, think the follower and spring, and all the stock stuff. The barrel maybe a loss, maybe I could file out the marks on it and it may shoot fine, does have the rear and front sight and the hood that I could use on my 270 pre 64. I figured for the price just for the action it's worth it. Will cost a bit to replace some stuff I see featherweight floorplates for $80 but not sure if the aluminum one would work. Probably $50 for a spring and follower.
The action has some marks and needs rebluing, I'd just rust blue it and should clean up fine. I'd like to make a modern longer range hunting rifle from it, carbon or glass stock and carbon barrel but that's a bit pricy for me. Do a detachable mag then I save some on the floorplate and spring and follower.
From what I remember that is still there is, the barreled action, complete bolt, trigger guard, may box, trigger, action screws, maybe some other stuff I can't remember. The floorplate and hinge is missing, think the follower and spring, and all the stock stuff. The barrel maybe a loss, maybe I could file out the marks on it and it may shoot fine, does have the rear and front sight and the hood that I could use on my 270 pre 64. I figured for the price just for the action it's worth it. Will cost a bit to replace some stuff I see featherweight floorplates for $80 but not sure if the aluminum one would work. Probably $50 for a spring and follower.
The action has some marks and needs rebluing, I'd just rust blue it and should clean up fine. I'd like to make a modern longer range hunting rifle from it, carbon or glass stock and carbon barrel but that's a bit pricy for me. Do a detachable mag then I save some on the floorplate and spring and follower.
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troy fairweather
Member
Hydrologic press makes for a good barrel vice,
Mauser fan
Member
Yes it does and can be used for other duties also. For instance those stubborn pin removal jobs.
EMC45
Member
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I ground 2 flat spots on the barrel. Grabbed it with the last vestiges of life my vise had and clamped it down. I put the 4ft cheater to it and that's when the threads stripped out of my u bolt.
Blue68f100
Member
If it's slipping in the barrel vice use rosin. I had this happen and rosin made it hold so it did not slip.
Mauser fan
Member
Ok I see now said the blind man. I can tell that there are couple of things going on here and I hate to be the one to tell you this. Please don't take any of what I'm about to say personally.
First heating the receiver ring isn't doing anything to help the process of what you are trying to accomplish here. The barrel is absorbing the heat that you are applying to the receiver therefor the threads on the barrel are expanding into the receiver making the joint tighter. Let it cool soak the !@#$ out of if in kroil and stick it in a freezer overnight.
Second place the barrel in a horizontal position with the wrench in about the 3 or 9 o'clock position where you can really apply the best mechanical advantage with the cheater pipe on the wrench handle. If that doesn't work with the cheater pipe. Move the wrench to about the 2 or 8 o'clock position and hit the end of your wrench handle with a BFH as hard as you can in the counter clockwise direction. Sometimes it takes some impact blows to break things loose. Do all of this while the barrel and receiver are still cold, and still soak and wet with the kroil.
For this to successfully work the barrel has to be in a vise extremely tight just before where the ring meets with the receiver face.
I hope this helps.
The toughest time I have had to date with separating any actions I must say has been my type 99 Arisaka's.
First heating the receiver ring isn't doing anything to help the process of what you are trying to accomplish here. The barrel is absorbing the heat that you are applying to the receiver therefor the threads on the barrel are expanding into the receiver making the joint tighter. Let it cool soak the !@#$ out of if in kroil and stick it in a freezer overnight.
Second place the barrel in a horizontal position with the wrench in about the 3 or 9 o'clock position where you can really apply the best mechanical advantage with the cheater pipe on the wrench handle. If that doesn't work with the cheater pipe. Move the wrench to about the 2 or 8 o'clock position and hit the end of your wrench handle with a BFH as hard as you can in the counter clockwise direction. Sometimes it takes some impact blows to break things loose. Do all of this while the barrel and receiver are still cold, and still soak and wet with the kroil.
For this to successfully work the barrel has to be in a vise extremely tight just before where the ring meets with the receiver face.
I hope this helps.
The toughest time I have had to date with separating any actions I must say has been my type 99 Arisaka's.
stillquietvoice
Contributing Member
One hhing I've done with pressed wheel bearings to separate the outer race and hub is to run cold water down the center of the hub and heat the race. Yhe water cools the hub just enough for the race to slide off.ight work with barrel removal, don't know for sure never tried that method for removing a barrel.
Mauser fan
Member
It is almost the exactly the same principle. I have done the same thing with bearings also. The same thing can be applied to installing cam shaft bushings in engine blocks.
Mauser fan
Member
I worked on the stock for the build I am currently working on. I filled in the space with scrap pieces of walnut and tight bond III where there was open space between the stock and magazine well closest to the front trigger guard screw hole. I did this because when the stock was opened up and semi in-letted it was done for another action not mine. I finished glueing the ebony piano keys together and filed the fore-end blank I made the sides true and square. It took 16 piano keys to make it.
I received in the mail today the 1/4"screw blanks from brownells. I measured the heads and I'll have to open the screw head holes up on the trigger guard by milling them to 7/16". Tomorrow I'll do the mill work and cut the screw blanks to the appropriate length then run my 1/4" 22 tpi die over them.
I received in the mail today the 1/4"screw blanks from brownells. I measured the heads and I'll have to open the screw head holes up on the trigger guard by milling them to 7/16". Tomorrow I'll do the mill work and cut the screw blanks to the appropriate length then run my 1/4" 22 tpi die over them.
Mauser fan
Member
I still have quite a bit of work to do to my build. My next big purchase for this build will be a finish reamer in 7x57mm.
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troy fairweather
Member
I've got a 7-08 reamer I may try out some time, I like the 7-08 but if it will fit a 7x57 that gets first dibs. I'd like to pickup a 7x57 reamer, surprised I don't own one by now. Have 7-08,280ai and 7stw like to do a 7x64 on a nice German action someday.
Mauser fan
Member
I'm surprised that I don't own one yet either especially since I own 4 rifles in that chambering. If for no other reason than starting with a barrel that is short chambered is the only thing that has prevented me from doing so sooner. Truth told I'm looking forward to it.
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troy fairweather
Member
What companies reamer you going with, ptg probably the cheapest and easiest to get. Some have crazy freebore like the military rifles and tend to like heavier bullets, I really like 140s for deer but anything up to 175 are great in the 7mauser.
Mauser fan
Member
PTG, Clymer or Mansen reamers which ever one is readily available. I won't shun away from used reamers either. I'll probably go the solid pilot route because they are the most affordable at least on my budget.
I have found the same to be true with my 7x57 mm rifles using the same bullet weights. Mine seem to like the heavier bullets best also. I'll have to see what this sporter barrel does when I shoot it for the first time after breaking it in.
I have found the same to be true with my 7x57 mm rifles using the same bullet weights. Mine seem to like the heavier bullets best also. I'll have to see what this sporter barrel does when I shoot it for the first time after breaking it in.
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troy fairweather
Member
My two current 7x57 well one is a ai like the lighter bullets to, was surprised my ruger 77 liked the 140s. First box of ammo in it was some ppu 139 the shop thru in when I got the gun and they were moa or betting if I had more scope. The ruger has liked anything so far, even my quick deer load I made up with dippers were around moa with a very old box of 175 partitions. My airgauged Douglas barrel on my ai shoots stupid good.
Mauser fan
Member
I just won the bidding war on eBay for the 7x57 mm finish reamer made by clymer for $81.
EMC45
Member
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Not yet.