Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by troy fairweather, Mar 28, 2022.
Reactive Target Sights (RTS) were only developed for the Glock. I like Glock, have a bunch of them with RTS's, but also enjoy using the same profile rear sight on Walthers, S&W M&P’s, Leupold Delta Point Pro Back-Up-Iron Sights (BUIS) as well. Initially just used needle files to shape the sights than transitioned to using the Bridgeport and fabricated a universal front / rear sight clamping jig to securely hold the sight with mill vise, which was a lot easier to mill the stand-a-lone sights than when fitted on the slides.
First up a quick video demonstrating what an RTS sight is and how it works.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i9ttx9got7mfjxh/Rogers School Test 9 Grip Force Reactive Target Sights (RTS) Bill Rogers Shooting at 7 Min Mark copy.mp4?dl=0
I use various shim thicknesses and it also has an underside 8-32 set screw for additional engagement to rigidly secure the work object. A small amount of depth relief on either side of the set screw for simple thru drill holes.
I get to test it tomorrow.
If it doesn’t, you might look as SVI trigger components and bearing main springs. I have them as low as 1.25lbs without following, 1.5 is a better bet though, further from the edge of reliability.
How do you like those EZE-Lap diamond hones? I’m looking at the DMT hones for some fine sharpening work.
Some of the diamond ones from harbor freight aren't to bad if you look though them for a good set. They don't give as smooth a finish as steel files, I've never used high end diamond ones so not sure if just the cheap ones are ruff. They will cut about anything tho.
Don't have any experience with the DMT hones. But, EZE-laps are nice if you have enough free real estate to use them; that's why I also have the narrower profile Boride Engineering styles. Both good for cast iron, hardened tool steel, stainless etc.
Did you get the parts set from The Rifle Shoppe? Is it a custom barrel? I am working on a Fergie as well, customising it to make it mine so to speak. Does the lock feel solid or is it a bit sloppy? Mine has some play in it at rest that I don't like.
The barreled action is custom made, I do not know who made it.
The lock is a R.E. Davis, John Twigg and is not sloppy at all.
I carved the stock from a blank.
Let us see yours
It is dimensionally identical to the M&P9 (9 mm). I have several of them with 100,000+ rounds thru them.
I was fully disassembling and cleaning one the other day and thought others might be interested in a couple of related issues.
First, the firing pin spring is located in a channel in the breech block (Sig-like), the firing pin is located by the breech block -slide retaining roll pin. The channel is slightly too wide which allows the firing pin spring to buckle at both ends during the internal hammer strike. This firing pin spring fractured @ 11,000 rounds. Easy to replace but I fabricated a brass guide rod for the spring, the length of which is precisely long enough to not allow spring buckling at its end and not interfere with function. Guide rods are used in many other firearm applications for the same intent, why not the step child M&P22?
However , in order to change out the firing pin spring the breech block has to be removed from the slide, easy!. Installing the breech block with a spring loaded extractor on its lateral surface is a gunsmithing cussing session. So, I fabricated a few methods to retain the extractor under tension for much easier
Installation assembly. Tie wraps initially, then a modified crescent wrench which is nirvana, transforming a cuss-laced task into a one-handed easy-peasy operation.
A short review of the M&P22 full size breech block anatomy, the spring fracture, the easy repair solutions.
I will try to get some photos shortly.
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