What have you done in the reloading room today

[KB Hill]

I think you're a

Dependent upon lighting selection one can generally get away with a Minimum #8 8 ft. DBL fluorescent lights on a single circuit.

The NEC limit for 14-gauge wire is 20 amps, which means you should never use 14-gauge wire in your 240-volt circuits, only your 120-volt circuits, or the amperage will exceed the wire's capacity. Using the basic electrical formula "Watts = Volts x Amps," the wire presents the equation Watts = 120 x 20 with a result of Watts = 2,400. You can load 2,400 watts onto your 14-gauge wiring for a 120-volt circuit.

Use 12 gauge for 220 under 40 amp and 10 gauge for 220V heavy load like welders and such .

No I'm Not an electrician and I didn't sleep in that Motel . I was a General contractor way way back and know just enough to be safe .

Length of wire run plays another tune to the equation but Not inside Your shop ,only power into the shop . Shops over 80 ft. in length from breaker box need be concerned .

I'm not an electrician either, but I think you're a little light on wire. #14 for 15 amp circuits, #12 for 20 amp circuits and #10 for 30 amp circuits. A 220 volt circuit just draws power from both legs of a single phase residential panel. Most motors up to 2hp can be run on a 20amp 220v circuit. Generally speaking, I don't think 15 amp circuits in a shop are a good idea, just too little capacity. Heavy 220v loads should be wired IAW equipment specifications.

 

[AJC1]

I think you're a

I'm not an electrician either, but I think you're a little light on wire. #14 for 15 amp circuits, #12 for 20 amp circuits and #10 for 30 amp circuits. A 220 volt circuit just draws power from both legs of a single phase residential panel. Most motors up to 2hp can be run on a 20amp 220v circuit. Generally speaking, I don't think 15 amp circuits in a shop are a good idea, just too little capacity. Heavy 220v loads should be wired IAW equipment specifications.

It's all about the welder in a shop or garage.

 

[horsemen61]

I sized and deprimed 50 pieces of nickel .280 Remington I hate nickel cases but is for a friend so you use what you have

 

[thump_rrr]

I loaded 8 rounds of 460 S&W this morning before going to work.
IIRC 38.1gr n110 over a 200gr Hornady FTX.
Starting load for the 5” 460XVR I just bought.

 

[AJC1]

I loaded 8 rounds of 460 S&W this morning before going to work.
IIRC 38.1gr n110 over a 200gr Hornady FTX.
Starting load for the 5” 460XVR I just bought.

The one time you know a starting load won't be boring....

 

[270OKIE]

I sized and deprimed 50 pieces of nickel .280 Remington I hate nickel cases but is for a friend so you use what you have

It's funny how the only two 270 Win cases I've had to toss due to neck cracks happened to be nickel plated? Coincidence? I think not!

 

[Walkalong]

Dependent upon lighting selection one can generally get away with a Minimum #8 8 ft. DBL fluorescent lights on a single circuit.

The NEC limit for 14-gauge wire is 20 amps, which means you should never use 14-gauge wire in your 240-volt circuits, only your 120-volt circuits, or the amperage will exceed the wire's capacity. Using the basic electrical formula "Watts = Volts x Amps," the wire presents the equation Watts = 120 x 20 with a result of Watts = 2,400. You can load 2,400 watts onto your 14-gauge wiring for a 120-volt circuit.

Use 12 gauge for 220 under 40 amp and 10 gauge for 220V heavy load like welders and such .

No I'm Not an electrician and I didn't sleep in that Motel . I was a General contractor way way back and know just enough to be safe .

Length of wire run plays another tune to the equation but Not inside Your shop ,only power into the shop . Shops over 80 ft. in length from breaker box need be concerned .

I'm pretty well versed in electrical requirements, have two certified electricians that are a part of my team, and have excellent relationships with a couple of local electricians who still do it every day for a living, so a quick call on anything I'm not 100%% sure on can get a quick answer.

Right now everything will be 120V lights and outlets, but I'll install a 240V outlet for a welder one of these days. It will be heavier than 10 gauge. I bought a 250 roll of 12/3 MC cable today for the lighting and plug circuits. I'm into overkill/over building/being safe, so fear not, it will meet code or better.

 

[kalielkslayer]

I sized and deprimed 50 pieces of nickel .280 Remington I hate nickel cases but is for a friend so you use what you have

I cleaned every piece of rifle brass I own recently and did an inventory.

.280 was the only one I felt I was short on.

And about 3 searches of the vendors I routinely use, still haven’t found any. So 50 pieces of nickel plated is better than what I have.

 

[270OKIE]

I cleaned every piece of rifle brass I own recently and did an inventory.

.280 was the only one I felt I was short on.

And about 3 searches of the vendors I routinely use, still haven’t found any. So 50 pieces of nickel plated is better than what I have.

Huh, I have seen a few boxes of 280 Rem at a local Oklahoma based sporting goods store called Atwoods and they are about 35-40 bucks a box or so I think.
Edit: that's for ammo not brass lol.

 

[kalielkslayer]

Slept in when the fishing alarm went off. So I thought I would salvage the day with some time at the range.

That didn’t go well at all.

37 degrees when I started, 37 when I got done. 10 mph wind, coming at me from 10 o’clock to about 2 o’clock.

I could never get either the 62 or 70 grain Barnes to group very well. Then I found a load with 60 gr Vmaxs that consistently shoots sub 1” groups at 200 yards.

After the first 5 groups with the 55 grain Barnes I was wondering if it was the wind. So I shot 3 of the Vmax loads. Seems the wind did open em up a bit, .71”. Usually do better than that.

Guess I’ll try another powder. I need these to shoot because I had some in my cart when I ordered these I ended up with 1,000 and they ain’t cheap.

Not sure why this gun shoots all 3 jacketed bullets I’ve tried so well but I can’t get a consistent good group with any on the 3 copper bullets I’ve tried.

 

[270OKIE]

View attachment 1115860 View attachment 1115861 Slept in when the fishing alarm went off. So I thought I would salvage the day with some time at the range.

That didn’t go well at all.

37 degrees when I started, 37 when I got done. 10 mph wind, coming at me from 10 o’clock to about 2 o’clock.

I could never get either the 62 or 70 grain Barnes to group very well. Then I found a load with 60 gr Vmaxs that consistently shoots sub 1” groups at 200 yards.

After the first 5 groups with the 55 grain Barnes I was wondering if it was the wind. So I shot 3 of the Vmax loads. Seems the wind did open em up a bit, .71”. Usually do better than that.

Guess I’ll try another powder. I need these to shoot because I had some in my cart when I ordered these I ended up with 1,000 and they ain’t cheap.

Not sure why this gun shoots all 3 jacketed bullets I’ve tried so well but I can’t get a consistent good group with any on the 3 copper bullets I’ve tried.

Did you get a chance to chronograph in the cold? Cause that would be interesting to see what powders are better in the cold and to see if magnum primers really do make a difference in cold weather. I need to test that myself one of these days. Cause one of my 270 Winchester load data guides actually specifically says to use a magnum primer with Winchester 760 powder and normal primers with everything else.

 

[AJC1]

View attachment 1115860 View attachment 1115861 Slept in when the fishing alarm went off. So I thought I would salvage the day with some time at the range.

That didn’t go well at all.

37 degrees when I started, 37 when I got done. 10 mph wind, coming at me from 10 o’clock to about 2 o’clock.

I could never get either the 62 or 70 grain Barnes to group very well. Then I found a load with 60 gr Vmaxs that consistently shoots sub 1” groups at 200 yards.

After the first 5 groups with the 55 grain Barnes I was wondering if it was the wind. So I shot 3 of the Vmax loads. Seems the wind did open em up a bit, .71”. Usually do better than that.

Guess I’ll try another powder. I need these to shoot because I had some in my cart when I ordered these I ended up with 1,000 and they ain’t cheap.

Not sure why this gun shoots all 3 jacketed bullets I’ve tried so well but I can’t get a consistent good group with any on the 3 copper bullets I’ve tried.

If the top right was 38.6 it looks to be one of your smaller groups where the 39 and 40 started opening up. Maybe run a seating depth test and see if that helps. I've never tuned monos but the material I've read indicates they are more sensitive to seating depth than cup and core... besides going a different direction may ease your mind...

 

[irishlad]

I cleaned every piece of rifle brass I own recently and did an inventory.

.280 was the only one I felt I was short on.

And about 3 searches of the vendors I routinely use, still haven’t found any. So 50 pieces of nickel plated is better than what I have.

Powder Valley and Mid-South show 280 brass in stock.

 

[kalielkslayer]

Did you get a chance to chronograph in the cold? Cause that would be interesting to see what powders are better in the cold and to see if magnum primers really do make a difference in cold weather. I need to test that myself one of these days. Cause one of my 270 Winchester load data guides actually specifically says to use a magnum primer with Winchester 760 powder and normal primers with everything else.

Nope. The .380 round I put through the chrono rendered it useless.

I really need to buy another since I’ve been on a waiting list for over a year to get replacement part.

I did notice that with this tight chambered gun I can’t usually get near max loads. I usually show sticky extraction before that. But today I ran every load including the group at max, 39.5 grains in my manual, or load data.com, not sure what I used. Sure it was the temperature.

 

[kalielkslayer]

Powder Valley and Mid-South show 280 brass in stock.

Thanks.

Powder Valley is sending me 50 pieces of Nosler brass.

thanks again!

 

[EMC45]

Primed and flared 50 pcs each .380, 9MM and .32 Long. I plan to make them go bang today.

 

[irishlad]

Thanks.

Powder Valley is sending me 50 pieces of Nosler brass.

thanks again!

Welcome, might have to get some myself. I've had some Remington brass for many years. Got some Hornady last year. Never had Nosler 280 brass.

 

[270OKIE]

Thanks.

Powder Valley is sending me 50 pieces of Nosler brass.

thanks again!

Powder Valley is good people! They are from south Kansas, just over the OK border basically so shipping is FAST. I need to pay them a visit one of these weekends and do an in person pickup. It's only 3 hours from the house according to google maps.

 

[270OKIE]

Nope. The .380 round I put through the chrono rendered it useless.

I really need to buy another since I’ve been on a waiting list for over a year to get replacement part.

I did notice that with this tight chambered gun I can’t usually get near max loads. I usually show sticky extraction before that. But today I ran every load including the group at max, 39.5 grains in my manual, or load data.com, not sure what I used. Sure it was the temperature.

Insert joke about 380 not having any stoping power here.
But yeah I had had a few problems with my Mossberg 270 and I had the bullets seated wayyy out there and some of them would kinda chamber if I slammed the bolt home but most of them would not. So I set up my seating die with a 130gr Hornady factory load and they all chamber fine now. I loaded some 95 and 110 grain Barnes TTSXBT and Hornady 110gr BTHP stuff. Also some Speer 150gr BTSP bullets that I got a deal on back when I got the gun in August 2020. I'm loading those only in my factory primed Federal brass that dad got for me also at a deal on GunBroker around the same time.

 

[kalielkslayer]

If the top right was 38.6 it looks to be one of your smaller groups where the 39 and 40 started opening up. Maybe run a seating depth test and see if that helps. I've never tuned monos but the material I've read indicates they are more sensitive to seating depth than cup and core... besides going a different direction may ease your mind...

Everything I’ve read says the same. But before I read that I worked a Barnes load up for both my .338 and .280. Almost on the lands and very accurate.

But you’re right. I should probably play with seating depth before moving to another powder.

Thanks for helping me get over my frustration and back in the game.

 

[kalielkslayer]

Powder Valley is good people! They are from south Kansas, just over the OK border basically so shipping is FAST. I need to pay them a visit one of these weekends and do an in person pickup. It's only 3 hours from the house according to google maps.

My go to vendors are Midway, Midsouth, Powder Valley and Brownells in that order. I search others as well but those seem to be the ones that have stock regularly. My last search for .280 brass was a lil over a week ago, nada.

Thanks again.

 

[DMW1116]

Began prepping brass to test and load the Gallant 135 grain cast and coated 9mm projectiles I just acquired. I threw in 100 cases of 357 Magnum and 45 cases of 38 Special too. I can stock up on revolver ammo now. I have great loads using regularly available components for the revolver rounds. I’m still searching for “The Load” in 9mm.

 

[Ray P]

My go to vendors are Midway, Midsouth, Powder Valley and Brownells in that order. I search others as well but those seem to be the ones that have stock regularly. My last search for .280 brass was a lil over a week ago, nada.

Thanks again.

Over the years, I've used the same suppliers you mention, along with Natchez and Buffalo Arms. But during the big reloading supplies dry spell, I used AmmoSeek with great success. Via AmmoSeek, I've found Arm or Ally, Selway, and St Barbs to all be very reliable suppliers tor hard to find bullets and cases.

 

[hoardingthemanual]

50x 9mm. It's my third batch of reloads, ever.

Priming on press has been the biggest headache of all time. I've never been at all interested in hand priming. I've used the priming arm that came with my press as well as the Lee ram prime but to no avail. The "feel" is hard to learn. It's like trying to catch smoke with your bare hands. That said, I recently bought another tool to help me, and this one made a night and day difference (for me).

It's the Forster Co-Ax Primer Seater. From the first case, I instantly felt the "feel" I'd been missing in other methods. I now know about the glide the primer does as it's being seated into the primer pocket. I know for sure the correct force required for this operation. The Co-Ax Primer Seater consistently seats primers very smoothly and with minimal effort! I'm borderline hysterical with glee because priming was such a problem for me that it completely stopped my entire reloading output for months. Thousands of dollars in dies, powders, primers, shipping/hazmat and accessories all gathering dust are no longer the case! The Forster Co-Ax Primer Seater changed my reloading life. It sounds like hyperbole, but I was struggling very bad. I know a lot of you will call me a man bun wearing hipster for needing help, but I really don't care. I hope anyone else having problems will read this and keep trying different things like I did.

 

[barnfrog]

50x 9mm. It's my third batch of reloads, ever.

Priming on press has been the biggest headache of all time. I've never been at all interested in hand priming. I've used the priming arm that came with my press as well as the Lee ram prime but to no avail. The "feel" is hard to learn. It's like trying to catch smoke with your bare hands. That said, I recently bought another tool to help me, and this one made a night and day difference (for me).

It's the Forster Co-Ax Primer Seater. From the first case, I instantly felt the "feel" I'd been missing in other methods. I now know about the glide the primer does as it's being seated into the primer pocket. I know for sure the correct force required for this operation. The Co-Ax Primer Seater consistently seats primers very smoothly and with minimal effort! I'm borderline hysterical with glee because priming was such a problem for me that it completely stopped my entire reloading output for months. Thousands of dollars in dies, powders, primers, shipping/hazmat and accessories all gathering dust are no longer the case! The Forster Co-Ax Primer Seater changed my reloading life. It sounds like hyperbole, but I was struggling very bad. I know a lot of you will call me a man bun wearing hipster for needing help, but I really don't care. I hope anyone else having problems will read this and keep trying different things like I did.

Hey, whatever works for you, friend. Glad you found a tool that got you back at it.