What have you done in the reloading room today

How many of us use a De-swaging device as opposed to primer pocket beveling ?. Just curious as to others opinions of both methods Pros ,Cons . Carry on .

 

I use a swaging tool to move the brass back. I don't like the idea of removing material, weakening the brass. I've seen so may pieces of brass where the user over cut with a countersink which made the brass scrap. When you loose 25% of the pocket your asking for a primer failure, blown primers. Using a proper tool which controls how much you can remove has merit.

 

I've beveled primer pockets for years and recently asked the same question and was answered by a very knowledgeable mod that swage was the best way. I am ordering a kit from Midway that is currently on sale for low 20s that has the small and large punches included.

 

Finished lubing the Lee C312-185-1R; ended up with about 350 pieces. That should do me for several months of shooting.

Then I worked on some 7.62x54r brass for an upcoming match.
Neck sized and primed 70 pieces, then ran them through a Lyman M-die at .310 x .314.
All ready to charge with powder, and seat the home cast .313" bullet - but not today.

 

I find it difficult to over chamfer when using a hand tool to chamfer crimped primer pockets.
That's why I don't use a drill/drill press or any powered method.

I don't chamfer thousands of primer pockets, just the occasional range mushroom when the extra effort while de-priming alerts me.
I would probably swage if I had more than that to do.
I don't load anything near max, so any weakening of cases has never been a concern for me.
jmo,
.
Edit: Always confused about terms bevel and chamfer as they apply to the edge of a hole.
I have used those terms interchangeably until now and have decided to use "countersink" to describe the chamfer on the edge of a hole (case mouth or primer pocket).
Countersink(verb): to chamfer or form a depression around the top of (a hole in wood, metal, etc.)
Sorry for the anal bloviation,

.

 

Started my search for 41 mag brass. Grafs has it in stock but I have a back order with starline. Ordering through Grafs would cost about $65 more when you consider shipping. We’ll see how long I can be patient…

 

12/26. They were closed over the holidays so I’d say it’s only been 10 days.

 

I think backorder time is cartridge and demand dependent. I had some 32 ACP (or was it 32 Long?) on backorder at Starline for over 3 months. At the time, whichever brass it was could not be found anywhere.
They contacted me after a couple months to make certain I still wanted it. They did fill the order, and I have no complaints.

 

Yea I’m not worried about Starline. Hopefully they catch up and more people order 41. I’m just impatient! I plan to fire up my LCT for this since I won’t be loading in volume and don’t want to switch over the primer assembly on the lock n load. For about 30 seconds I thought about the Lee 6000, but I’m happy with my LCT. I might go and overpay for some LPP just so I have a little extra in case I really like shooting the 57.

 

There’s also a Henry 41 available at midway. I just can’t justify it after just buying the revolver. But it is tempting…..

 

I've used several methods over the years and was not 100% happy with any of them. Now I use a Wilson reamer that fits my trimmer. Its slow and can be rough on the fingers. I use a glove like bike riders or weight lifters use.

 

.22Hornet bullets from Speer arrived today.

.22TCM on the left, .22Hornet on the right

Hoping the Speer bullet will work in .22TCM!

 

Correction there is NO boat load of metric brass in 5.56 or 7.62 Military or otherwise . It's SAAMI Std.

Problem #1 when primers go in like butter ,they soon fall out like hot goose grease through a Ducks Azz .
I have News for a few of you regarding beveling or chamfering of a primer pocket ; So little material is removed doubtful your scale would detect the difference .
Think about this for a moment : A primer was pressed into the case you are about to modify and NOTHING changed it's depth or width upon firing . So the Military process of roll crimping primer pockets it's NOT magic or unheard of and neither is dealing with them .
A swaging tool forces the opening back to it's original dimensions or DOES IT ?. NO it actually enlarges that opening by displacing Brass else where . Ever notice NOT all commercial or Military primer pockets need addressing ?. Some which may have hung on extraction others which were pressed near their base .

Lastly WHERE is the point of the chamfering taking place ? , At the OUTER most section of the cartridges base ,NOT at it's web or shoulders, mouth not even it's neck but down at the THICKEST portion of the case . So WHAT are you weakening ???.

Tilos has posted an RCBS case neck deburring tool and it requires almost No pressure two turns and cases except primers without fail .

I as others used to use a Dillon Deswaging tool but I've concluded over decades primer pockets FAIL far faster using it ,than simply a quick 2 turn chamfering . It's just MY opinion but longevity of MY cases dictates something is correct . As always this is a discussion Not and argument right wrong or indifferent ,everyone needs to experiment and find out IF it works for YOU .

 

50x 6.8 SPC

 

Chamfer is a beveled edge . Beveled : Cut at an angle that is not a right angle : having the slant of a bevel

 

I know the feeling was at the gun show and just couldn’t help myself.

 

Gave the Dillon XL650 a good cleaning in preparation for a new .223 conversion kit coming in any day. Up until now I've always loaded pistol cartridges on my Dillon and rifle on a single stage RCBS. For the most part I've been fine loading 30/30,.308, 6.5 C/M and 300 Win Mag on a single stage but doing .223 at volume has become a major PITA.

 

Looking forward to seeing how you like it. I’m considering trying 30-30 on my 550 myself…