What headstamp brass do you toss in 9MM?

For me, nothing ... for general purpose range blasting reloading - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...r-oal-consistency.911743/page-3#post-12446468

 

AMERC gets thrown in the recycling bin immediately!

I have no problems with S&B, any Federal, PMC, Blaser or any other brass cases in 9mm.
Like said above, I will take them all and be very grateful.

 

For me, it's about neck tension.
*FC*, and especially Blazer may have "enough", but not for my tastes. When it's been sized, and then the expander gives little to no resistance in a case, that's not okay.
For cast with a larger OD? I'm sure they're fine... even preferable!

 

I keep all 9mm. Don’t sort by headstamp like I do 45ACP, but I keep it all.

 

I wasn’t aware that S&B did that. For 45ACP & 9mm too? Any idea on a percentage?

FYI, I just checked about 150 S&B 45ACP…no steel among them. Whew!

 

When I was hand sorting brass I’d throw out stepped 9mm cases, but after using the sifters I don’t check anymore.

 

I sort by headstamp & readjust seater for each differnt stamp. I use any boxer brass that is not crimped.

 

Anything steel or aluminum for starters. Aluminum is obvious. Steel cases can be tough to see if they are brass washed so I just drag a magnet thru it.

After that? No specific brands. I'm looking for off center flash holes and stepped brass. Off center flash holes are a pain to decap/process quickly for obvious reasons. Stepped brass is something I cull as I see them, but I'm less worried about it if one gets by.

380 cases are annoying though.

 

I scrap the ones with that severe step... not sure of the headstamp but I get them occasionally. As well I throw anything with a primer crimp in a separate jug for emergency or rainy days. I've also given away crimped primer cases to someone starting up or in desperate need of brass. At this point I don't need to mess with primer crimps on 9mm

-Jeff

 

Maxx

 

In 9mm I toss Norma as I've run across the small flash hole problem with them sticking or breaking decapping pins.

In .308 I don't keep Aguila as I've encountered problems with ejection with that headstamp that I don't have with any others.

 

I never pick up steel or aluminum 9mm, and I toss any that have a "shelf" ringing the inside. I haven't started loading 9mm yet, but I have been picking up brass at my gun club for years, so I have a good amount.

 

I sort most of it and don't recycle any but AMERIC. The brass, stepped, aluminum, and steel are sorted and put into what if containners. I will load the aluminum and steel for lost brass matches or in the field. The brass with thin necks are reloaded with lead bullets, the thicker are reloaded with jacketed. The stepped just sit there for now. The brands that have tight primer pockets or are crimped are run through the CH4D swager. Thankfully there are no major shooters in this area so far. I use all brass that I can reasonably reclaim because someday it might be unobtainum. 38SPL/357 MAG brass was like 9MM once apon a time and now it is rare as range scrap in these parts. Just sayi'n.

 

This is the only brand of brass cartridge case I throw out. It's worthless....

 

I pitch the stepped cases and berdan primed. They then get checked for steel, then they get sorted by headstamp.

I've never had neck tension problems with .fc. or blazer. I would think you need to evaluate your dies if your having that kind of problem.
I get around 50lb-60 lb of tension with them.

 

I sort out the "stepped" 9mm brass and save them until I have enough for a batch. Then I load it all together and use it where I'm likely to lose most of it.
My plinking loads are mid-range, so I'm not worried about changes in case volume. They load and shoot fine, so long as you don't try to seat a bullet deep into the step.

 

Aluminum and all Berdan Primed ... the rest I can deal with .

I do save some Berdan primed brass for making dummy rounds ... these are used for setting seating dies and for making rounds to test feeding ,,, stand next to bed and see if rouns will feed , chamber and extract when cycling the action by hand ,,, Saves a lot of bullet pulling sometimes , especially with short throated 9mm's ... seating depth gets critical .

Gary

 

I am really surprised that some of you dislike Blazer. I have picked up a lot of it before covid and am very satisfied with it. Oddly I am not crazy about "R-P." Need to adjust the crimp a little looser as I remember.

I probably do not check with a magnet as much as I should.

BTW I have not heard "it is not worth reloading 9mm since I can buy factory very cheaply" in a few years.

 

Um, if its real brass and not berdan primed I don't toss anything.

Well, at least for 9mm. For rifle brass I won't reload Igman (though I haven't seen them in years). The flash hole is undersized and will quite often break the depriming pin (on dies with replaceable ones) or activate the failsafe on dies that do that (Lee and Hornady that I know of).

Though honestly if I had some in modern times brass is rare enough that I'd probably figure out a way to deprime it with a slender rod and just drill out the flash hole to a larger size.

 

For 9mm????? Seriously?

 

Well I was referring to Igman rifle cases - but for 9mm I certainly wouldn't toss anything I would just set it aside for later.

 

Drilling primer holes in 9mm cases to 'save' them? Seriously?

 

Reading is hard…….

 

Just reload it. If it shot from the factory I doubt that you are going to introduce anything into your reloading process that would make the brass do anything harmful otherwise. I have (am) used ledged brass. I am neither condoning ledged brass or condemning ledged brass but will say that I use it and have lived through this horror.

Why are we complicating something so simple?