What kind of coating do you use?

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Strange that they didn't list hard chrome, which is still considered to be the best all around gun finish.

Bluing-oxidizing is still the most common, but the newer pistols are increasingly going to the various steel treatments that surface harden the steel and color it black.
Glock was one of the first, but now S&W's M&P series and many other pistols are using it under various brand names.
Military rifles commonly use black "parkerizing" type coatings for steel parts, and everyone uses anodizing for aluminum, either standard or hard coat.

Increasingly, individual after market and some factory finishing or refinishing is done with the various "paint" type gun finishes with Cerakote being the best.
 
Ive got a hard chromed gun, as well as do my own hot salt "blueing", and have used cerakote, duracoat and now Wheeler cerama-coat. Ive also had good results with plain old krylon paints.

For a home solution i highly recommend bluing or Cerakote. Duracoat isnt bad and neither is the cerama-coat, BUT Cerakote offers a better blend of hardness and flexibility than either of the others.

Home bluing is easy, and cheap, but dosent offer the corrosion resistance.

The major work and key steps in all of the above finishes are metal prep (sand blasting for any "paint" type seems to work the best) and degreasing.
 
The most impressive coating I have ever seen is the ceramic(?) coating on my old Glock 17. It has sort of a stippled finish and is certainly harder than the limestone I dropped it on once. I just brushed the limestone powder off and it left nary a mark on the gun.
 
The most impressive coating I have ever seen is the ceramic(?) coating on my old Glock 17. It has sort of a stippled finish and is certainly harder than the limestone I dropped it on once. I just brushed the limestone powder off and it left nary a mark on the gun.


Tennifer. Which is the Glock trade name for ferritic nitrocarburizing. Also known as Black Nitride, Nitride, Melonite, etc.....
 
If I could, I would have every firearm I own treated with nitride. It can be done, just cost prohibitive. All my new AR-15 barrels are nitrided. I have one handgun I may eventually have treated.
 
I use whatever coating comes on the gun/parts. There's still no replacement for a little oil in the works. A fancy coating can cost hundreds, a quart of oil costs $5 and lasts forever.
 
Bluing/black oxide is the most common finish. It can be very attractive, but probably offers the least rust resistance. There's actually quite a few different types of bluing.

Parkerizing is a moderately common finish. It is a porous finish, so it will soak up oil and can offer excellent rust resistance. I've found it to be a little soft, though, although it can vary a lot in durability.

Anodizing- for firearm use, only aluminum (and occasionally titanium) are anodized. They can't be blued or parkerized. Aluminum is almost always anodized. Hard anodizing (or type iii) is generally considered the best for firearm use.

Cerakote is expensive paint. I don't have any particular experience with it.

For some reason, nickel boron is generally only applied to AR15 BCG's. I'm not really familiar with it.

Nitrocarburizing is more of a surface hardening process than a finish. Usually, a black oxide finish of some kind is applied over it.

Not covered-

Stainless steel- it's the composition of the metal rather than a finish. It's stainless all the way through. It offers excellent rust resistance, although it can rust if abused. Since it is stainless all the way through, it can be readily refinished.
Nickel- electrolytic nickel is more of an old timey finish and can have issues. Electroless nickel can be almost as good as hard chrome.
Hard chrome is likely the most durable finish of all, but many find the bright silvery appearance offensive.
 
I've been reading about Ionbond DLC (diamond like carbon) finishes for guns. Never used it but hear a lot of great things about it's wear resistance and low friction
 
Buddy of mine just had a bolt action rifle done with Cerakote. I forgot what it cost him but it wasn't what I call inexpensive. It's a very sharp, professional job that looks great and not like "Bubba" did it.
 
I use whatever coating comes on the gun/parts. There's still no replacement for a little oil in the works. A fancy coating can cost hundreds, a quart of oil costs $5 and lasts forever.
I generally do too, but I've gotten more than one gun with no bluing left. I usually used Oxpho-blue on them, but i might give duracoat a try next time around, just to see.
 
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My latest experiment with cerama-coat.

Ive found that all of the spray and bakes really need solid surface prep to work well. With the Cerama-coat sandblasting, washing, degreasing, and spraying as soon as its dry of degreaser produces good results. Comparable infact to the two part products, but from a rattle can.....course if you have a sand blaster you likely have an air brush......
 
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My latest experiment with cerama-coat.

Ive found that all of the spray and bakes really need solid surface prep to work well. With the Cerama-coat sandblasting, washing, degreasing, and spraying as soon as its dry of degreaser produces good results. Comparable infact to the two part products, but from a rattle can.....course if you have a sand blaster you likely have an air brush......

Nice professional job there. I wish that I could do that but arthritic problems with hands preclude it unless I want to take several months to do one job.
 
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