What makes "match"

[264swedmoor]

I've reloaded several combinations with various bullet and powder types but have not been able to go to the range yet to test them out (work, lots of work).

But, what makes a good load? It's a combination of things, obviously, but what things have more of an effect than others? If I can measure powder to the .01 gr, does that matter if I use a non-match bullet? What if I can only get bullet seating to the .01" and not .001"? Do I need to invest in more expensive equipment to have a chance at making good stuff? To crimp or not to crimp?

What is the order of importance of each step that goes into a reload? Practically, I only need to be accurate to a few hundred yards on paper, and maybe an actual hunt at some point. I'm not doing F-Class.

 

[bullseye308]

Repeatability and consistency with your choice of quality components. If using crappy pulled fmj with pulldown powder measured by scoops you are probably on the wrong end of the scale. If you are using quality bullets, known good powder for that bullet weight and caliber, and proper reloading techniques you have the possibility of loading “match” ammo, although there is no guarantee it will shoot to “match” accuracy in your rifle.

 

[rfwobbly]

• "Accurate" is in the eye of the beholder.
• "Match" is generally in the eye of the Marketing Dept.
• The reloader usually has a particular result in mind, which they may or may not state in their High Road post.
• Excellent in pistol ammo does not equal excellent in rifle ammo.
• The "most important" single point in any type reloading quest is a refined process. You cannot buy "the best" of every reloading component and expect great ammo. Care and attention to detail is required at every step in the process.

 

[Hooda Thunkit]

Garbage in, garbage out.

'Match' (to me at my bench) means premium components assembled meticulously, achieving a consistent product.

 

[murf]

good brass and your ability to be consistent as a handloader.

luck,

murf

 

[mdi]

There are probably gonna be a few dozen different aswers, but I'll share mine; #1 is consistency. I start with known good, "premimum" bullets. Some bullets are known for consistent construction (weight, diameter and shape). Then I'll research powders and usually pick one that is popular for the caliber I reload (if a lot of people are using it, there must be a reason). Then I will use a starting load right out of my manual(s) and do a load work up weighing every charge to .1 grain, again as consistent as I can. Also using manual data I seat to the bullet manufacturer's data for OAL, again keeping OAL/seating depth as consistent as I can. I'll continue until I find a promising charge then tweek the charge up or down to find "The Load". If I'm really looking for the best accuracy (for me and my gun) I'll start neck sizing bottle necked cartridges and lastly I'll play with bullet seating depth, bullet distance from lands. During a load work up I change only one Item at a time then test and record results. I've been able to get some very good loads this way (consistent 7/8" groups @ 100 with my 308 Ruger American with 155 gr HPBT Hornadys over some 4895). I'll pick one mfg case and one primer and stick with them through the work up. Most of the other items like exact case length exery time, forming primer primer pockets, deburring flash holes, using "match" primers, etc., don't seem to make enough difference to tweek for a good load. I've made some very good loads with military brass, F/L sized, mixed primers and "dipped" powder charges, but I like reloading so a few "extra" tasks don't mean much. My hand gun loads are simpler but basically the same, with consistency and bullet to gun fit key...

Oh!, and high gloss brass, shiny primer pockets and case interiors are a major plus looking for "The Load"...

JK!

 

[CMV]

Besides the consistency noted above...assume all things equal.....I'd define it this way vs say just generic range/training ammo.

1. Bullet choice. Construction, good match for your barrel, performance characteristics you want
2. Powder charge in an accuracy node and more of a dead nutz measurement of that charge
2.* Powder choice for the combination. I put the * because I cheat here and will just ask what works well or if I can get the results I want with what i already use. i.e. my .223 accuracy loads are same H335 as my blasting loads, I don't switch to Varget or something. Conversely I started 6.5CM with H4350 instead of something else I had data for that *could* work. I go with a known quantity there and don't experiment around with a pound of this, pound of that looking for best case powder choice. a large # of others reporting excellent results with X is good enough to keep me doing all the trial & error research.
3. Length set within that accuracy node
4. Minor tinkering. Crimp or no, amount of crimp, noted difference in certain headstamps, etc

Many will get much more detailed, weighing every projectile, weighing each piece of brass, precision trimming, etc. For me after 1-3 above, I'm not gaining much vs the effort.

I think it's also important to understand your limitations. No matter the rifle, optic, or load, I'm not going to cloverleaf a 5 shot group at 300 yds. I can keep it around 2". Likewise somewhere between 1/2" - 3/4" @ 100 yds. A few "good days" maybe better or more all around the .5" end, but I know what I can expect out of me. So when a load gets there, I stop messing with it. There might be more potential to go after but once I become the lowest common denominator it really doesn't matter.

 

[FROGO207]

To me assembling match ammo is using the best quality components available and assembling them in a boringly repetitive process that will keep each round as close to the others on either side of it as to call them equal. I pretty much follow MDI's post myself. The biggest bang for your buck would be the quality of the bullet followed by the same head stamp brass. Then prep it well. Match primers are more consistent but rare is the individual that can justify the extra cost shooting less than 500 YDS. So it comes down to how good are your standards and at what cost are you finished improving that round.

 

[Walkalong]

A true match barrel, preferably a custom blueprinted when you buy it action, or a trued 700, Savage, Howa etc action, or at least a good action, match bullets, good brass, an appropriate powder, a little load work with a die setup that makes the cases and neck tension very consistent, properly seated primers, and you should be able to shoot nice groups.

You can't make a purse from a sows ear.

 

[jag22]

I guess I'm a bit of a contrarian but I think "match" is mainly a function of the marketing department. Call it match and charge a bit more. I understand you guys being meticulous in every step you do but there is always that "weakest link" you have to deal with. The one that for me is hardest to believe is match primers. Is there only one machine that can make match grade or is it the old timer that knows how to run that machine better than everyone else? Is it a different "special" compound, different metal cup? Do they just run the machine a little slower, better quality control? I just don't get it.

 

[WestKentucky]

Buy 3 boxes of vanilla factory ammo in various forms. So you get Winchester white box, Remington green and white box, and American Eagle (military overrun) ammo. Shoot it all and gauge what “standard” is. Anything that repeatedly beats that average by a significant margin is “match” ammo. You get there by doing the same things the same way the same amount. Same amount of powder, bullet weight, same brass dimension, same loaded cartridge dimensions. To what degree you get there is up to you and even the cheapest of tools will surprise you if you do the man part of the equation consistently enough.

Most importantly, “Match” is in the eye of the marketing dept, and I would add that it is at the heart of the finance department which is caught by the ear from the board of profiteers. That my friends is why you should never buy a box of anything that is flashy and pretty to promote itself. If it’s a plain brown box that in small letters says match then you can probably believe it’s good stuff. If it’s in a colorful box with reflective stickers and bright colors then it’s probably a money grab.

 

[Walkalong]

Granted, it can be done a little cheaper, but........

https://www.altusshooting.com/products/impact-precision-shooting-737r-short-action
+
https://www.altusshooting.com/products/6-dasher-lapua-shouldered-pre-fit-barrel
+
https://www.powdervalleyinc.com/product/berger-243-6mm-105-gr-hy-trgt-100/
+
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018056911
+
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011118272
=
4 shots each

 

[Ranger99]

. . . Care and attention to detail is required at every step in the process.

Probably the best piece of loading advice
posted ^ ^ ^ ^
Although many have declared they can,
and many have called me the worst kind
of a liar and many other choice things,
I've yet to meet the person who could
go through the loading processes with
distractions and make consistently
good ammo.

 

[JFrank]

When I build my own ammunition and take them to a match, if I can compete at a level of success or say a point or so behind the best guys then I believe I have built match grade ammunition.

The opposite is also true.

 

[Ifishsum]

To me means good enough that I would take it to a match and compete with it. As far as factory ammo goes, the 'match' tag is surely used for marketing but if it's actually loaded with a good match quality bullet like Sierra or Berger, it's probably going to be better than average. I've never bought 'match' ammo myself, always load my own - it but I have shot alongside folks who were shooting factory 'match' loads and they can perform well as long as the shooter can.

 

[BigAlShooter]

That's what makes this hobby fun. It's trial and error, plus a lot of engineering that takes years to learn. Read a lot on these forums and you can learn a lot.
Here's my take:
#1 Start with the best bullets - Match grade Sierra or Nosler. This is a lot of trial and error, but you will find what your gun like really quick.
#2 Start with known good powders for your caliber and weigh each to the best tolerance you can quickly load
#3 Shoot 5 shot groups as much as you can and then vary other variables, such as OAL, to improve your accuracy
#4 Consistence of your brass - trim all the same, use same brand of case, same # of firings from the same rifle
#5 Same as #4, but keep the brass sized to match your barrel, but just slightly smaller than your chamber, again consistency is key, just need to size all the same in the same consistency
Once you start shooting under 1MOA, if you have a good barrel, you can start to tweak the other areas.

 

[AJC1]

I'd take a box of lapua match grade 6mmbr ammunition at face value and have seen exellent results from said ammunition. You feel factory match ammunition in the pocket book. I'm not even sure black hills says match grade but in a pitch for time I would shoot it if I had to. Is your match grade ammunition going to be shot in a hand lapped air guages barrel mated to a blue printed action, or are we talking service rifle class. 1000 br quality and offhand cowboy steel siloette are not the same.... I believe at least a discipline is required to give a good answer.

 

[LiveLife]

What makes "match"

For .223/5.56 and .308, I have shot various commercial ammunition and "match grade" ammunition like Black Hills. What I have noticed is "match grade" ammunition were more consistent in producing smaller groups. They also cost more.

what makes a good load? It's a combination of things, obviously, but what things have more of an effect than others? If I can measure powder to the .01 gr, does that matter if I use a non-match bullet? What if I can only get bullet seating to the .01" and not .001"? Do I need to invest in more expensive equipment to have a chance at making good stuff? To crimp or not to crimp?

Well, that's the difference between just "reloading" vs "handloading". Handloading works to reduce/eliminate reloading variables so more consistent chamber pressures can be generated to produce more consistent muzzle velocities which in turn produce lower SD/ES.

What is the order of importance of each step that goes into a reload? Practically, I only need to be accurate to a few hundred yards on paper, and maybe an actual hunt at some point. I'm not doing F-Class.

And many match shooters work on a single reloading variable to determine which produces greater/lesser consistency that translates on target in terms of smaller groups with repeatability. Ah, the joy of reloading fun ... an eternal journey for some.

Here are some information on producing "match grade" ammunition that you can review and take away things applicable for your shooting needs. I think many will agree that bullet choice, brass and powder selection to produce greatest return on money with other reloading variables to produce diminishing return on money. And don't forget shooting variables like barrel harmonics that won't cost any money but can help produce smaller groups.

This comprehensive post full of U.S. Army Marksmanship Unit’s articles and links discusses further on selecting reloading components for match grade loads, reloading techniques specific to match shooting and range procedures/equipment for accuracy testing - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...s-and-discussions.778221/page-2#post-10938613

76 page compilation of US AMU series on beginning handloading (from US AMU FB page) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6_VFA4Z3x3AVVctLURYdEVYbU0/view

While much of the content are geared towards precision long-range rifle loading (1000 yards), quite a lot of information can be transferred to pistol loading.

And for "match grade" for pistol calibers, this thread discussed what I consider to be reloading variables to minimize/eliminate for greater consistency - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/competition-9mm-bullet-choice.873523/#post-11609591

 

[jmorris]

“Match” is a formal contest between 2 or more people, so anything that the competitors use would be “match” ammunition despite quality. It’s worth noting that in some competitions accuracy might not always be the main goal for the ammunition used. I can say the same for hunting, other considerations are more important than ultimate accuracy. Sometimes we get lucky and have both optimum performance and accuracy, other times we trade off towards our other goals.

What makes a good load?

All of the components working good with the equipment they are being used in. Worth noting that some loads that are perfect for one firearm might not even run in another, much less be accurate. For instance, an excellent varmint load for an old 1:14 .223 rifle might have the bullet disintegrate upon exiting a 1:7 twist barrel. That is an extreme example of how important the equipment used is despite what is being used in it.

What is the order of importance of each step that goes into a reload?

Components, the bullet is most often at the top of the list on the opposite end would be powder charge to the hundredth of a grain.

Equipment, the dies you use are more important than what press you use them in. There are many record benchrest groups that are shot with brass that are wiped off and brushed out one at a time by hand. So we can argue time consumption/volume when it comes to cleaning brass but there isn’t much evidence surgically clean brass performs better. Then again there is a consistency advantage to shooting the same few pieces of brass during the match and time constraints prohibit tumbling. Not to mention, no one wants to spend hours prepping and sorting to then have cases crash into one another in a tumbler. On the flip side, an action pistol or 3 gun shooter isn’t going to want to spend all week getting a 5 gallon bucket of brass clean enough to reload either.

 

[Tirod]

As said match grade is meticulously prepared ammo which eliminates variables that cause bullet dispersion into a large group. Different pressures, different harmonics, different Cd of bullets, different jump to the lands, and including, having the bullet axis the same as the barrel axis. If the bullet is jammed into the chamber and the tip is knocked down .005" then it will jump that far off, engage the rifling, then spiral down the tube spinning the nose .005" up and down, only to exit ??? out of the muzzle. Not good. This is why mil ammo uses crimps, to keep a good hold on the neck and lessen bullet offset or backset. Compressed loads aren't a good thing, either, which is where crimping can also help while handing the reloader another half dozen variable to test one at a time trying to find not only the best way to do it but also reducing the variables.

A manual action rifle doesn't jam the bullet in the chamber nearly as much, but it must also be given some attention, too.

Here's the rub, if you have a barrel shooting 2MOA, making match ammo for it won't change it much. The barrel is the inconsistency. Trying to get a load to shoot .5MOA from a 2MOA barrel only happens on the internet. If you buy a .5MOA barrel and you are a .5 MOA shooter, then anything bigger is likely ammo inconsistency, and down the rabbit hole you go.

Match ammo is exactly that, for a rifle and shooter attempting to win a Match against each other. Game and humans, 2MOA does the job and has for over 100 years. It's a 18MOA center of mass hit zone likely to slow or stop. Much more precision than that just means quicker, not more dead. Match ammo can't make anything more dead. This is where a lot of the testosterone of match shooting becomes hyperbole and outright fantasy in real life.

Look at it this way, no war was ever won with Match ammo. Just trophies.

 

[JFrank]

I can have all the match grade procedures/ preparation and still not have match grade performance for lack of tuning that ammunition to the rifle or missing a condition at the range.

 

[Walkalong]

There are a number of PRS "production class" ($2500) rifles that will shoot better than a lot of people can shoot. MPA guarantees to shoot 1/2" with theirs. The one I had that my nephew has now would certainly do it.

$2500 ain't cheap, but it's a great value.

Match grade for me better shoot under .5 in good conditions if I do my part. Benchrest rifle? It better be able to shoot the occasional zero, with lots of ones and small twos.

 

[Reloadron]

What makes "match"

I learned it as building high power. Everything has been well covered. Making the very best match ammunition requires using the best components one can get. Everything is about consistent. You need a good reliable press and good dies. You want all your brass, bullets, powder and primers consistent.

That said the best match ammunition you can make will only shoot as good as the rifle you shoot it in. You tweak and peak your ammunition to the rifle. Kind of like in search of the Holy Grail.

Ron

 

[AJC1]

Match grade is an ever evolving quest of making the best you are capable of, learning more and improving on what used to be your best. You may achieve match grade but when you do good enough wont be.

 

[Slamfire]

Match is what the good shooters are using in rifle matches. The rest is advertising.