Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by greyling22, Apr 2, 2021.
I had a backup, that I just took out of the box when setting up my new reloading area.
Probably see me through another 20+ years.
When I am reloading precision rifle I throw loads with that to get me close, then trickle in on an RCBS 10-10.
When I'm loading not for absolute precision or doing test workups I just use it direct.
When I'm trying to load a bunch of stuff quick I use the RCBS chargemaster w/ the auto trickler thingy (and a straw inserted in it, to fix the inconsistent drops)
^If you ever use a chargemaster with extruded powders, there's your trick of the day
When I'm going for volume I use the Dillon 650.
the straw will make the extruded drop quicker?
It will make it more accurate as it trickles powder when approaching your target weight , less overthrows .
Like everything else, it works better with spherical and small kernels of powder (those kernels fill the cavity more fully and pour the smoothest.) Is least uniform with the larger sizes of 'stick' powder (for exactly the opposite nature). But both seem to be as uniform as anything. In my experience, even the larger types of powder in rifles seem to be close enough for general use. Ultra precision shooters will want to 'trickle' the last bit.
I don't think anything will suit a perfectionist. Make sure your scale does repeatable measurements.
It makes the drop more consistent. Extruded tends to clump up in the tube that the chargemaster ships with. So when it does it's final trickle, it might drop on the money or 0.3 grains over.
With the straw, it drops on the money, every single time.
Yup, indeed. Plus there's other things you can do while it meters powder! Lets you multitask.
The only time I trickle and then measure on a beam scale (I use a 10-10) is for precision long range stuff, where it really matters.
I have a lab scale (part of the day job) which reads and is certified to 0.1 mg, far more accurate than any of my reloading scales. It is accurate to 0.00154 grains (converting from mg).
It's useful for double checking the other scales, though, if I haven't used them in a while.
+/- 0.1 grain is very much "enough" for precision shooting. Never needed anything more accurate than that, considering 0.1 is good enough for SD 5 fps, given everything else being equalized and normalized across a batch (brass, etc). 0.1 grain is good enough to get in the x ring consistently at any distance, if everything else is working as it should
One thing about digital scales, they will drift with temp.
Turn them on several hours before your session, or leave them on, keeps them acclimated.
Also useful to recalibrate every X rounds (as they will drift, over time). That RCBS chargemaster, I recalibrate it about every 100 rounds, to keep it on point.
Right, that's what I'm talking about is the zero drift. Over time, the more you re-zero, the more off your loads can get. It's worth checking it against a beam scale. After enough re-zeros I've seen it 0.3, 0.4, or 0.5 off of a control load that was tossed and set aside at the start of the session. Which that's on magnum rifle; the deviation is much less severe on lighter loads.
The chargemaster (and other RCBS digital scales) are not precision instruments. They are "good enough" for doing a lot of loads fast.
Beam scales can be (and if set up right, usually are) precision instruments. Although they can be touchy!
The lab scale I have, that's certified to 0.1mg, is a precision instrument, lab grade. Your measure goes in to a chamber which is then closed, it is fully isolated environmentally.
I don't need it for reloading though, because "good enough" is "good enough"
*Belding & Mull
One of the things l've learned about the CM is you want to keep the pan on the scale when not using it. It greatly minimize the drift.
I'd also suspect temp would have a lot to do with it. My old reloading room was in the basement, and the room would warm as I occupied it. That always causes problems with digital scales. (Even the lab grade ones, you have to acclimate and keep the room tightly controlled). It wasn't quite as bad when I'd fire up a space heater a few hours before reloading, to get the room at a steady temp.
I'm currently in the process of setting my gear up in the garage, at our new house, which has in-slab heat piping. It will have a lot less temp variance than that old basement did.
The chargemaster got set up today, and calibrated. It'll be a while before I give it a run through, though. Have a long way to go before things are organized enough to try to load ammo!
I like my Hornady but I just wish I could find replacement parts for my dad's old Lachmiller.
It's the only one that I ever saw that was consistent from start to finish.
This for loading rifles
www.harrellsprec.com Premium and Shuetzen
If you have a powder measure I doubt that you will see much improvement by swapping to another.
I have owned several and once I got used to one they all dropped powder with about the same accuracy. You just need to throw enough charges to get used to it. None of them worked well with extruded powder. I use a ChargeMaster for those powders. My Harrells is much smoother than any of the others but is not much more accurate. The thing about the Harrells is that its very repeatable. X number of clicks drops the same weight of powder next week as it does today. It looks better, feels better and is much smoother.
Sometimes does go crunch...so what? I am not a competative shooter and can not tell any difference on my targets.
Once the 55 is set up I drop directly into the case.
I have also made custom scoops...work great, just be consistent in how you scoop.
These have really increased my output of my rifle rounds as I still load on a single stage press for rifle.
I do love the Uniflow for non stick powders and use the rcbs505 with it.
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