Why the plastic on the 1911 Colt Commander?

[someguy2800]

Is it a lightweight commander or steel frame? If I wanted a lightweight 1911, plastic would be desirable for me on those parts assuming it's a good durable glass filled nylon or abs.

 

[JTQ]

...so why a gun that cost me almost a $1000 new from the retail dealer have plastic parts when my $400 RIA's are all metal?

Heck, some folks make their entire frames out of plastic and will charge you $2,500

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Regarding 1911's, the trigger shoe and mainspring housings are under very little load. Polymer is less expensive, gives lighter weight, and won't rust.

Clark Custom Guns still has this blurb in their .460 Rowland Conversion Kit https://clarkcustomguns.com/product/460-rowland-conversion-kit-for-1911/

Not recommended for Filipino manufactured 1911’s, other soft metal 1911’s, or aluminum manufactured frames or slides.

 

[MarshallDodge]

Which parts did you see break most?

I'd wager the slide stop and the hammer/hammer strut.

I remember a barrel lug sheared off, random small ignition parts, and firing pin stops.

 

[1KPerDay]

I have never heard of a plastic grip safety, I would not have thought the long skinny "arm" rigid enough.

I haven’t either. I wonder if the OP’s is coated MIM

 

[Grunt]

We hear how great the foreign copies are, yet the standard post describes how their proud owners immediately start throwing parts away in favor of US name brands.

Okay sheriff, ya got me, I confess. I do have to admit I wasn’t as happy about the safety detent springs on my Tisas. They seemed kind of mushy. Still serviceable and I’d bet not a lot of folks would know the difference but I wanted a little better. I admit I pulled out the mushy Turkish spring and replaced it with a $5 Wilson Combat spring and plunger assembly. But that’s the only part I swapped out.

 

[vanfunk]

I strongly suspect the grip safety is steel (cast though it may be) and that the OP is just mistaken. Waiting for him to chime back in for clarity.

 

[doubleh]

I'm guessing light weight, easier to make saving a bit on manufacturing costs, and don't forget it's name is only a purchased trade mark.

I thought the plastic trigger assembly for a 10/22 was cheesy compared to the original aluminum one until I finally tried one.

 

[nofendertom]

Apparently Clarks is saying the .460 Rowland Kit (with its higher pressures) are not meant to be used on 1911 frames made of cast metal or aluminum. This would include RIA,
Para-Ordnance, Caspian, Essex, Crown City, Vega etc. It seems Ruger cast 1911 frames are OK. Properly cast frames seem to work well with the lower pressures of the .45acp.

 

[WestKentucky]

I have always wanted another 1911 after purchasing the Ruger 1911 Commander 10 years ago. Since then I have bought 2 Rock Islands one in 45 and another in 9mm. I noticed just recently the trigger and grip safety happen to be made out of plastic instead of metal on my Colt Commander, so why a gun that cost me almost a $1000 new from the retail dealer have plastic parts when my $400 RIA's are all metal?

Because the jumping jackass likes to cut corners. Some folks say that modern colt (cz) is a top notch product, but I still see halfassery and lack of innovation. RIA is producing a quality gun for $400 in an economy where the labor cost is minimal. Colt produces a similar product in the US where labor costs are higher (with a whole lot just getting assembled from imported cheap labor parts) so that explains some of the cost. Finish details explains some of the cost because a Colt will be more nicely finished. My wallet says that the $400 RIA is a bargain.

 

[trackskippy]

I think the only way you're going to figure out what the bargains (or best values anyway) really are, is to let the games people, or high volume shooters, run them "as they come" for a season or two, and see where you are and what goes on during and after that.

Most people don't shoot the guns enough to even really get them broke in, so unless they are putting some volume and actual wear and tear on the guns to know what's going on with it, whats a realistic bargain and what isn't?

And to me, reality with any of them is what they do out of the box, and not after what needs to be fiddled with and changed or replaced to get them to run reliably, and with any kind of realistic ammo.