Another fan of kg12, works extremely well without the stink. If memory holds, read (on the bottle) ya need to be careful about it getting on your skin. Still use Hoppes 9 first for soaking and brushing. If ya got some patience with the Hoppes, and a place to let the gun sit, minimal use of bore brush required.
Will Hoppe's #9 actually remove copper fouling?
- Thread starter SilentStalker
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northark147
Member
Another Butches Bore Shine user here..
PowerG
Member
Hoppe's Benchrest 9 works, Butch's Bore Shine may be a little better. It needs to sit a while.
biggameballs
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- Oct 22, 2007
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ZEKE I was all set to order KG-12 becasue from all the research I've done it's hands down the best copper remover on the market. With testing done it's basically a proven fact.
What scared me off is some people had reviews of it saying that it took the finish right off their barrels when they got it on them by accident. Have you, or anyone on here for that matter, experienced that?
I'd rather have copper in my barrel then a screwed up finish on my gun.
What scared me off is some people had reviews of it saying that it took the finish right off their barrels when they got it on them by accident. Have you, or anyone on here for that matter, experienced that?
I'd rather have copper in my barrel then a screwed up finish on my gun.
springer99
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- Feb 3, 2007
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Hoppe #9 is a good cleaner for general use, but when I really want to remove copper fouling, Sweets 7.62 is what I reach for.
i also use sweets, i normally only pull copper once every 40 rnds or so (i use a snake with hoppes benchrest after every shoot). I havent tried kg-12 yet, might make a point when i finally run out of sweets again, took me some 8 years to kill my first bottle.
lightman
Member
The original #9 worked pretty good,but when they made it safer,they also made it less effective.All of the other solvents that the other posters listed above will work better.I have seen this proven on side by side test at matches and on prairie dog shoots,where shooters are cleaning their rifles.Everyone has their favorites,I use Shooters Choice and Sweets. Lightman
conrad427
Member
gunslick foam is a good one as well as the hoppe's benchrest copper solvent. I am not sure if no.9 has ammonia in it or not. Tiptons copper solvent is the best i have used so far. One word of caution though, a few years ago i decided to clean an old mod. 70 of all copper after seeing some streaks in the muzzle. After a good cleaning with gunslick and tiptons i noticed several large pits in the muzzle that used to be filled with copper, the rifle does not shoot as well now and will probably take years to fill the holes back in.
SilentStalker
Member
Best place to order sweets that you guys have seen?
The Sarge
Member
Sweets is very good. To the poster asking where to get Sweets. Midway,and most of the online vendors have it.
I get just as good if not better results from my homemade copper cleaner.
2 parts Janitor Strength Ammonia from ACE Hardware mixed with one part Ivory Dish washing Soap. I started using my homemade stuff on various Lee Enfield and Mosin Nagants. Cleaned them perfectly lickety split. I use it on everything I own.
I get just as good if not better results from my homemade copper cleaner.
2 parts Janitor Strength Ammonia from ACE Hardware mixed with one part Ivory Dish washing Soap. I started using my homemade stuff on various Lee Enfield and Mosin Nagants. Cleaned them perfectly lickety split. I use it on everything I own.
SilentStalker
Member
ok, final question. Obviously, I do not want to do any premature damage to the barrel but I would not want copper to sit in the barrel forever either. So, how exactly would one know when to clean for copper fouling vs. just a regular cleaning? I mean I know some people that clean everytime they go to the range and others that say they never clean their barrels period. Or would you suggest cleaning for copper fouling after so many rounds? I might be putting too much thought into this but this is an expensive rifle, so I am a little concerned with it as I have over $7000 in this rig altogether as we speak.
Freedom_fighter_in_IL
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SilentStalker, Copper fouling removal needs are based on a few variables. One-Is the jacket type on your bullets. I.E. Thin vs Moderate to heavy. Two- Speed that you are pushing the bullet through the barrel creating heat and copper fouling. Three- How often you regularly clean your rifle with regular solvents such as Hoppes #9.
If you are hot rodding (just for comparative purposes) a 168gr Match hollow point out of a 28 inch .308 barrel, you will have more copper fouling than you would from say a 150gr Hornady Interlock at a medium velocity.
I am of a habit to clean any firearm that went out the door with me. Doesn't matter if it was fired or not. Still gets a patch ran through and a good wipe down. Old habits are hard to break. As far as copper fouling cleanup, I tend to like the new bore foams myself, but for years I used Sweets. I tend to do a copper cleanup around every 400 rounds on hot rod setups such as my .220swift and my bench rest guns. For my hunting rigs, I've found they only need it done about every 600 or so.
If you are hot rodding (just for comparative purposes) a 168gr Match hollow point out of a 28 inch .308 barrel, you will have more copper fouling than you would from say a 150gr Hornady Interlock at a medium velocity.
I am of a habit to clean any firearm that went out the door with me. Doesn't matter if it was fired or not. Still gets a patch ran through and a good wipe down. Old habits are hard to break. As far as copper fouling cleanup, I tend to like the new bore foams myself, but for years I used Sweets. I tend to do a copper cleanup around every 400 rounds on hot rod setups such as my .220swift and my bench rest guns. For my hunting rigs, I've found they only need it done about every 600 or so.
SilentStalker
Member
How exactly are you guys plugging the rifles up and letting this stuff sit? Sorry, I just get a little scared about shoving something into the end of my barrel 
.
.Use Sweets and don't be letting stuff sit in your barrel. When you run a patch with Sweets on it down the bore the patch will come out green. When it stops coming out green you're done. I'm usually done on the second patch. I do my rifles between 50 to 100 firings depending on velocity. Do not leave this stuff in your barrel for any length of time like over night.
The first varmint rifle I owned I let people talk me into using JB Paste which is abrasive. Probably took 10 years off the life of that barrel. You almost never need abrasives.
The first varmint rifle I owned I let people talk me into using JB Paste which is abrasive. Probably took 10 years off the life of that barrel. You almost never need abrasives.
Stevie-Ray
Member
#9 Benchrest Copper Solvent is the best stuff I've found for copper fouling. It's all I use for my FAL. Only problem is it stinks way worse than regular #9.
dc.fireman
Member
rem1858
Member
You want to get rid of copper fouling ?
Sweets 7.62 down and up the bore a few times.
Let it sit for about 5 minutes.
Wet a patch with Hydrogen Peroxide(you have it under your bathroom sink), and push it ever so slowly down the bore.
It will be foaming as it comes out.
Let it sit for about anothe 5 minutes and run a dry patch.
Repeat if neccessary
The best method that I have found to remove copper fouling.
Works for me, your mileage may vary...
Clarence
Sweets 7.62 down and up the bore a few times.
Let it sit for about 5 minutes.
Wet a patch with Hydrogen Peroxide(you have it under your bathroom sink), and push it ever so slowly down the bore.
It will be foaming as it comes out.
Let it sit for about anothe 5 minutes and run a dry patch.
Repeat if neccessary
The best method that I have found to remove copper fouling.
Works for me, your mileage may vary...
Clarence
HankB
Member
I mostly use Hoppe's BR9 because it's one of the few copper solvents that won't damage the bore if you leave it in for an extended time. The MSDS at the Hoppe's site doesn't show a whole lot of difference between #9 and BR9, but the latter does seem to work a bit better. (In making #9 "safer" I think all they did was remove the nitrobenzene.)
On occasion, if a rifle barrel is seriously fouled (a CMP M1 I bought comes to mind) either an electrochemical bore cleaner or a good soak with solvent is called for. I've used both methods, and have found that even original #9 works well if you cork up the bore (usually from the chamber end) and fill it with solvent for a couple of days after swabbing/scrubbing out the loose stuff.
With #9 or BR9, no problem . . . the label actually recommends overnight soaks. Some of the other solvents on the market may damage the bore.
On occasion, if a rifle barrel is seriously fouled (a CMP M1 I bought comes to mind) either an electrochemical bore cleaner or a good soak with solvent is called for. I've used both methods, and have found that even original #9 works well if you cork up the bore (usually from the chamber end) and fill it with solvent for a couple of days after swabbing/scrubbing out the loose stuff.
With #9 or BR9, no problem . . . the label actually recommends overnight soaks. Some of the other solvents on the market may damage the bore.
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