Wolf Primers - Problem!!!

Status
Not open for further replies.
tydephan said:
But the Wolf primers gave us fits. http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=518736

Another similar thread regarding these primers: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=526906
Yes, remember those links. BTW, did you ever get your refund or just ended up shooting them in your M&P?

I would have imagined that Wolf/Tula by now addressed the harder primer cup issue with nickel SP primer. I still think the jury is out on the nickel SP primer as people are still reporting ignition issues and my Tula SP lot # is very current (20-10). As to bronze/brass colored LP, I haven't had any problem.
 
Nah I stopped persuing a refund. It was obvious Wolf didn't give a crap.

We shot them all up. Had about the same level of failure the entire time. We just chalked it up to a bad batch. Probably would have bought Wolf again had it not been for the sub par responses I received and their unwillingness to refund.

Plenty of other primers out there now!
 
My PMC SP primers are the NT (non-toxic green box) made in Russia. Not sure where the regular PMC primers (red box) are made now, but the origin of manufacture should be on the box.

attachment.php
 
I've had excellent results with Wolf in my AR .223's and never had a failure (that's with the copper colored primers)............However I happen to own a Kel Tec P3AT that has a problem with the yellow primered Tula ammo...........damn shame too, as that stuff is extremely accurate in the gun.............far better than either Fed or Winchester. I just chalked it up to the 'hard primer' issue as every single misfire (roughly 15 in a box of 50) went on the second strike. Too, it just might be that the springs are something of an issue as it's an older and hi round count gun that I've considered taking back to the fact. for a rebuild.
 
dogrunner said:
every single misfire (roughly 15 in a box of 50) went on the second strike
If the primers ignited on second strike, looks like primers not seated deep enough.

The bronze/brass colored Wolf/Tula LP primers I have used are larger in diameter and harder to seat than Winchester/CCI. I normally seat primers to .004" below flush, but I could easily seat Winchester/CCI LP primers to .008" below flush if I wanted to using the hand priming tool or the press. With Wolf/Tula primers, I really have to apply additional pressure just to seat them to .004" below flush. Often, I could only seat them to flush in cases with tight primer pockets.

I would double check the seating depth and see if that makes a difference for your Kel Tec P3AT.
 
Me said:
I have not had a single misfire using brass-colored Wolf SP primers (or any color of LP primers.) I never tried any nickel Wolf SP's, I heard too many problems with them.

I bought 5000 of the Tula SP's (I thought the Wolf nickel primers problem was just one lot) and they are nickel and I've had a few misfires in a DA revolver. They work just fine on the second strike, so I think they might be OK in a semiauto with a really strong hammer spring.
I was having a lot of misfires with the Tula primers. Most would go off on a second strike; a few took 3 hits. It seemed to be getting worse. I tried different revolver (a Ruger) and they worked just fine, even double action. So I took the grips off my S&W and checked the strain screw. It was loose; almost one turn. smack.gif I snugged it up and no more problems -- I've only fired 50 rounds so it's not totally conclusive yet, but I feel a lot better about it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top