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Wood stock glue?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by PinnedAndRecessed, Nov 3, 2006.

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  1. PinnedAndRecessed

    PinnedAndRecessed member

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    I'm replacing the plastic forend tip of my Remington 700 BDL with a Maple forend tip. The guy I got the wood from said I should use a glue called
    "5 Ton." Only I can't find it anywhere.

    Anybody know anything about that? And if not, what is a good glue for stock work?

    thanx
     
  2. PotatoJudge

    PotatoJudge Member

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    "5 ton" probably refers to a type of epoxy. If using that or polyurethane glue (gorilla glue), -and I'm stealing this suggestion from dfariswheel because I didn't think of it- wipe some paste wax on the finished surfaces to keep the glue from sticking to it. Remove the squeezed out glue after it partially dries with some sort of soft wood or plastic scraper. There is no solvent for these glues that will not ruin other finishes.
    How do you plan on clamping the tip to the stock? Does the tip already have a finish on it? Has the tip been fit to your stock?
     
  3. PinnedAndRecessed

    PinnedAndRecessed member

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    I'm going to completely refinish the stock. I plan on using a chemical stripper to remove the old finish. I'm hoping I can use bristle brushes to remove the
    finish/stripper out of the checkering. I don't know if I'll have to recut the checkering, somewhat. The factory checkering is skip checkering.

    After I strip the finish, then I will glue the partially formed/shaped forearm tip to the stock. I will then finish shaping the forend tip and the pistol grip cap to the stock.

    I talked to a local merchant about "gorilla" glue. He said that it expands and that it dries to a distinctive white finish. He didn't think it would be much good for my purposes.

    I plan on using a strap clamp. Either that or my adjustable extension on my woodworker's vise.
     
  4. DWARREN123

    DWARREN123 Member

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    I have used epoxy for stocks before, if done correctly it works very well.
     
  5. dfariswheel

    dfariswheel Member

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    I don't recommend Gorilla Glue for gun work.

    After playing around with it, I've come to the conclusion that it's not as strong as epoxies, and too messy due to the foaming.
    While it may be good for carpentry and general repairs, I just don't like it for use around firearms.

    In the case of a fore end cap, I'd recommend epoxy.
    Done right, the 5 minute epoxy works as well as the slower curing types.

    I'd recommend roughing up the ends of the cap and stock.
    I used a drill to drill a BUNCH of very shallow holes in the ends of the pieces to give the epoxy a good grip.
    You can even under-cut some holes to allow the epoxy to form "locks" in the wood.
    Leave a border around the edges to allow a tight joint and to position the pieces.

    Done this way, the joint really is stronger than the wood, and in my opinion, better than the Gorilla Glue.
     
  6. Sunray

    Sunray Member

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    "...to remove the finish/stripper out of the checkering..." Use any finish stripper and a stiff tooth brush.
    Like dfariswheel says, use epoxy for the end cap. Nothing else works as well. A long pipe clamp will be better than a strap. Straps can move more easily.
     
  7. shooting time

    shooting time Member

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    Try some brownells acraglass glass bedding compound .I used it to repair cracks in stocks and it works great.
     
  8. GreyMauser

    GreyMauser Member

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    Yeah, any clear, generic epoxy would be my choice. But I gotta ask, does anyone else use one or two dowels or a dutchman to strengthen the bond between forend and tip?
     
  9. dfariswheel

    dfariswheel Member

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    Can't hurt.
    Anything that will increase the strength or give the epoxy a better grip is good.
     
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