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Wooden stock repair question

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by hexum77, Feb 14, 2012.

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  1. hexum77

    hexum77 Member

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    On my Yugo m48, I have a nice crack (and separated at the crack) running from my receiver to my iron sights. Is there any way I can repair this by filling the crack void with some wood composite or something like that? I don't want the crack to get larger and spread to other parts! Thanks :)
     
  2. dfariswheel

    dfariswheel Member

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    The Ordnance repair method was to use brass reinforcement pins.

    These pins had extremely coarse, rounded threads that pull the crack tightly together and prevent it from coming loose or spreading.
    With the pins, glues are seldom needed in the crack, and in fact, it's usually impossible to get glue into a crack.
    For that, you really need one of the wood repair "super glues" that are very thin and will soak into a crack.

    Buy the pins from Brownell's.

    http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=617/Product/STOCK-REPAIR-PIN-KIT

    You can do the same thing with a long, thin brass wood screw, but finding brass screws that long and that thin is difficult.
     
  3. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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  4. hexum77

    hexum77 Member

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    Thanks guys! I'll grab some of the screws and that bottle you suggested. Appreciate it :)
     
  5. zdc1775

    zdc1775 Member

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    Or use Acraglass from Brownells.
    Might want to visit surplusrifleforum and read some of the stock care reference stickies. Candyman (aka GunnyUSMC on THR) has a lot of great suggestion and tutorials over there.
     
  6. hexum77

    hexum77 Member

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    Well what would be better to use? Acraglass or the pins + hot stuff instant glue?
     
  7. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    There is no way you can get acra-glas down to the very bottom of a tiny crack.

    If you use it, you would need to grind the crack completely out and then fill the void.

    Hot-Stuff has an affinity for sucking itself down into tiny cracks, clear to the bottom, and then curing instantly.

    rc
     
  8. zdc1775

    zdc1775 Member

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  9. Mizar

    Mizar Member

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    zdc1775, rcmodel may know something you don't... Do think about his advice.
    OP, you can replace brass screws with bamboo skewer.

    Boris
     
  10. hexum77

    hexum77 Member

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    Good info from everybody! RC, attached is the picture of the crack. It goes all the way through the wood and not just a surface crack. Check out the picture and let me know if the screws plus the hot glue will still work. Thanks!

    IMG_0209482.jpg

    IMG_0210481.jpg

    As you can see, the crack starts from the back of the receiver hood (all the way through the wood over the receiver) and continues up.
     
  11. 243winxb

    243winxb Member

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    Acraglas, not the Gel, has worked for me. I would drill a hole on the inside of the stock, running parallel to the barrel, to get fresh wood that is not oil soaked. Masking tape on the outside of the crack. The Acraglas will flow into the crack. It will not set up super fast at 70 degrees. A little vaseline petroleum jelly on the outside over the masking tape will keep Acraglas from sticking. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1033/Product/ACRAGLAS-reg-
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2012
  12. earlthegoat2

    earlthegoat2 Member

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    Thinner epoxies like standard Acraglas can get down into pretty tight spaces since they do not cure so fast they have time to travel by gravity pretty powerfully.

    However I am in agreement that Hot Stuff has the best tendency to get into the tightest spaces. It is just formulated differently.

    As to the suggestion bdc1775 to use the information at Surplusrifles, I would say there is nothing wrong with Candymans techniques. I was however unimpressed with the repair done on the wrist of the M1 carbine stock. Yes no screws were needed but the repair did not pull the crack back together rendering it invisible. Since it was a government war relic the brass screws could have been used and you could have said it was repaired at the arsenal that way since this was a common method. Plus it pulls the separation back together in such a way as to use the woods own structure to add the necessary toughness as opposed to relying on adhesive alone. Depends on what you are going for. Candymans methods leave no doubt about their structural integrity. They look near bombproof.

    The answer to the question here is YES. Both methods will work whether you use Acraglas or Hot Stuff. That crack is in a less critical area so the brittleness of Hot Stuff will not come into play. I would not use the pins on this area though as there is just not enough meat to play with in that area of Mausers stock.
     
  13. Mizar

    Mizar Member

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    The disadvantage of epoxies is that they are too thick to fill tight gaps and, more importantly, to penetrate into the wood - no matter how low viscosity certain brand of epoxy has, it's still too thick to penetrate adequate into tiny gaps. The advantage - strength. With CA glues it's exactly the opposite. In this case I would do this: sand with 80 - 100 grit inside the top hand guard where the crack is. Fill the crack with CA glue and press firmly to fill the gap. Reinforce the inside area with two - tree layers of thin cloth saturated with the epoxy of choice (Acraglas).

    Boris
     
  14. hexum77

    hexum77 Member

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    243 - What would the drilling be used for? Some wood shavings to mix in with the glue in the cracks?

    Earthgoat - Just to clarify my intentions, I'd like a good result from the repair i do; this is a rifle I'll probably have my entire life so the better quality repair, the better! To not be able to see the crack would be best, paired with a repair job that will last :) Another question I have, though, is what about the glue that slips through the crack onto the metal? It gets hot when I shoot and I'm not sure what will happen to that glue, either melt, burn?

    Mizar - Would that epoxied cloth be visible and permanent? I'd like to repair this crack in a way to restore the look of the area to the original state. What's the sanding for and how could I reseal the sanded area once I'm done?

    Thank you guys!
     
  15. Mizar

    Mizar Member

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    I'm talking about the inside area of the hand guard - i.e. the area, that is touching the barrel.

    Boris
     
  16. GunnyUSMC

    GunnyUSMC Member

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    This is a simple repair. If done right it will never give you trouble again.

    First you will need to clean the cosmoline from the area. This is very important due to the fact that no repair will hold for long if there is any oil in the area.
    Also, the handguard is made of Elm and Elm just loves to soak up oil.

    You will need to use Acraglas or Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy (clear with 30 min set time) Glues are nice, but I have had to repair many stocks that had glue repairs that have failed.

    First apply the resin to the area from the inside then flex the crack to work the resin into it. Then Clamp it like in the repair thread. (hog tie)
    Once this is set, approx. one hour, use a dremel tool to remove some wood from inside the handguard. Cut a small strip of fiberglass colth to fit the area.
    Wet the are with the resin and put the cloth in place. Apply a little more resin on top of the cloth. Once this is cured, dress it up and your done.

    http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=137&t=50964



    Here is the reason that glues don't work that good. Glue sticks to things very good, but just doesn't stick to itself very good. Most glues stay a little soft and others dry too hard. Too hard = brittle.
    Glues may be fine for some things, but stocks are a little different. You will be subjecting your repair to recoil. This is a big factor in how your repair should be done.

    earlthegoat2 Sorry that you were unimpressed with the repairs on the M1 Carbine wrist repair.
    I've been at this for over 23 years and one thing that I will tell you, not all cracks can be pulled back together rendering it invisible. It has a lot to do with how long the stock has been cracked and how much dirt and grime has gotten into it.
    The technique that I use to repair stocks, is what I call Blind Repair work. I do my best to hide the repairs so that they are not seen or very little is seen.
    That M1 stock never would have been repaired by the military, it would have been thrown out.
    Now I will add brass screws and wood wedges if someone wants the look of an Arsenal repair, but they are just for looks.
    But I am always willing to learn something new.

    But here is one that should impress you. ;)
    http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=137&t=97944

    Now I know that there is more then one way to skin a cat and even more ways to repair a stock.
    But when I repair a stock, I want it to last as long as the gun or longer.

    I stopped taking in stock repair work over a year ago, due to my health, thying to catch up on back log work, my own projects and enlarging my workshop. The last part is taking longer then it should. :banghead:

    hexum77 Here is an offer I put out from time to time. Send the handguard to me with $5 to cover return shipping. I will repair the handguard and ship it back to you. The work will be done for free. Just PM me for my address.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2012
  17. 243winxb

    243winxb Member

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    To get to fresh wood that has no oil on/in it. Remove the hand guard & work from the inside. Take this offer>
     
  18. earlthegoat2

    earlthegoat2 Member

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    Gunny, I probably should have considered the long history of the rifle before I made the comment. These rifles were put through the ringer even if they had a crack most times. I did not mean to generalize all of your work in that one statement because what you are doing over at SurplusRifles is real thing of beauty and keep it up sir.

    Semper Fi
     
  19. hexum77

    hexum77 Member

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    Oh man, Gunny! Those repairs from the links you sent me look WAY out of my league! I think I'll take you up on your offer! I have no reason to believe that you would steal my hand guard from an m48 :p

    PMing now! :) You sir did excellent work on that second link.. I can't really tell from the first one, honestly.
     
  20. orionengnr

    orionengnr Member

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    An exceptionally gracious offer by someone who is both a craftsman and a gentleman.

    You are a class act, Gunny.
     
  21. rickb2202

    rickb2202 Member

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    mighty generous offer of time and craftsmanship!. as usual my covers off to you gunny
     
  22. GunnyUSMC

    GunnyUSMC Member

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    earlthegoat2
    No offense taken. :cool: I was just picking on you. ;)

    Thanks for the kind words. I belive in helping others when I can.
    My shop is at my house and my over head is almost zero.
    I always tell people, What goes around, comes around. When you do something out of kindness, it will always come back in one way or another.

    When the handguard gets here I will try to remember to take pics of the work and post them as the work is done.
     
  23. hexum77

    hexum77 Member

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    Very cool, Gunny! Pictures would be pretty cool to see :D
     
  24. GunnyUSMC

    GunnyUSMC Member

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    The Handguard got he the other day, but I didn't have much time to get to it with my boys here on the weekend and everything else that was going on.

    I took these pics just after it got here.
    10qbhqw.jpg

    35ddgty.jpg

    You can see the damage better from the under side.
    One reason I offered to do this repair is due to the barrel clamp. This makes the repair a little harder due to having to have to work around it.
    34edtg0.jpg

    You have to be careful when removing handguards that wrap aroung the rear sight, because you can cause more damage. But this is no biggy and will be easy to fix.
    25qsy2a.jpg

    2m5jdrm.jpg

    1m6s.jpg

    Here it is with the barrel clamp removed. You can see that there is more then one crack.
    51en7k.jpg

    Now to start the repair.
    First off there was a good bit of cosmoline in the wood that needed to be cleaned. It took two soakings with denatured alcohol to remove the cosmoline.
    v5i98i.jpg

    As you can see the back of the handguard has 5 different steps and the crack runs through all of them.
    2i4wnt.jpg

    33jl635.jpg

    I'm going to make some cuts int the handguard so that I can reinforce the repair and prevend any other cracks from starting.
    I should have some more pics tomorrow.
     
  25. hexum77

    hexum77 Member

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    Woah! Didn't even know that there was more than one crack let alone the severity of it! Man, I just thought it was one easily repairable crack on the top of the hand guard!

    Keep up the good work! Can't wait to see the rest :)
     
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