Worksharp Precision Adjust Elite Sharpener

The Night Rider

The Night Rider

Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2022
Messages
2,743


I saw a discussion about sharpening knives on another forum yesterday.

The Precision Adjust got some pretty good reviews. I mentioned to my wife that we might want to get one if we could find a good Black Friday deal.

I'm not sure what convinced her but she went looking online for one and found one at Sportsman's Warehouse for a reasonable price and sent me to get it.

This knife, a Benchmade 710 is my most difficult knife to sharpen. I think because of the recurve on the belly of the knife.
FB_IMG_1731871157245.jpg

I put a razor edge the very first time I sharpened it in about a half hour.

I paid $123 USD for it. well worth the price
 

Attachments

  • FB_IMG_1731871157245.jpg
    FB_IMG_1731871157245.jpg
    63.4 KB · Views: 3
Pretty foolproof, and people seem to get good results. Read the instructions or watch the WorkSharp videos before you use it to avoid the very few gotchas.
 
There's always this beast.

wickededgeusa.com

Generation 4 Pro

Elevate your knife sharpening game with the Generation 4 Pro Precision Knife Sharpener. Easy clamping, precise angles, and patented dual-sided sharpening action for 4 times the speed. Made in the USA, customizable, and includes premium diamond sharpening stones. Invest in the last sharpener...
wickededgeusa.com wickededgeusa.com

Save a few bucks.

www.grizzly.com

Knife Grinder, Sander, and Buffer - Grizzly Industrial

<h1>G1015 Knife Grinder, Belt Sander, and Buffer</h1> <h2>Perfect for grinding metal and freehand shaping.</h2> <p>The long belt arm on the G1015 Knife Belt Grinder, Belt Sander, and Buffer is exactly what you need for grinding metal and freehand shaping. Perfect for knife makers, the 2" x 72"...
www.grizzly.com www.grizzly.com
 
  • Haha
Reactions: hso
hso said:
Which you'll burn up ruining blades until you finally give up or learn how to use it.
Click to expand...
I mentioned on another form that I really don't like electric knife sharpeners because you're just one mistake away from ruining a blade. The person I said it to got very upset with me
 
The Night Rider said:
The person I said it to got very upset with me
Click to expand...
That's a foolish reaction on his part. You aren't comfortable with powered sharpeners. He is. Nothing to be upset by.

I don't recommend every method for every person regardless of having used every category, except these rolling sharpeners, of sharpening system.
 
I posted this on another forum and somebody commented that people don't realize the value of a good, sharp knife.

Last night my wife and I were watching an episode of The Ultimate Cowboy Showdown. One of the contestants roped a steer and the steer jerked his horse right off his feet.

As I watched the contestant (Ethan Treadwell) trying to get that rope off the saddle horn I was thinking to myself "That is why you need a good, sharp knife on you."

Unfortunately, I can't seem to find any video of the incident
 
I just got the basic model and tried it out today. I’ve hand sharpened for decades but I wanted the angle control above what my Spyderco Sharpmaker and similar stone guides could provide. So far I have not been disappointed.

I sharpened a troublesome Kershaw and thanks to the angle control, I used a triple bevel. I started at 18 degrees with the coarse stone, then moved to 19 degrees with the medium stone, and deburred and polished with the fine stone at 20 degrees. On this knife I probably won’t go lower, as the thumb studs may get in the way.

It’s not quite as sharp as I can get with the Sharpmaker, but it’s very close. For a first try, it will do the trick.

I usually avoid clamp sharpeners. They usually can’t go low enough for me. This one always to be able to go below 15 degrees, but I’ll have to try it. The stones usually start hitting the clamps at low angles. My standard angles are 12 degrees on my water stones and 15 degrees on the Sharpmaker for the final microbevel.
 
I sharpened my son’s Mini-Bugout tonight and got a very sharp edge. I basically matched the existing angle at 21 degrees with both diamond grits and then deburred on the ceramic at 23 degrees. It surpasses what I’m usually able to do for S30V class steels with water stones and Sharpmaker. The edge is even and the point is very sharp. Since this isn’t my knife I probably won’t rebevel it to a lower angle. The next victim will be my Wharnecliffe Endura. Without a thumb stud, I plan to lower the angle below 20 degrees and hopefully as low as 15.
 
I sharpened a Kershaw rescue knife tonight and last night. 320/600/ceramic at 17/17/20 degrees respectively. The edge wasn’t quite up to what I can do with my Sharpmaker but it was definitely sharp. The Sharpmaker edges will cut a hair held between my fingers, while the Work Sharp would do beard hair, which is thicker and easier to cut.

Angle control is excellent. Adjustments as low as one degree are noticeable and repeatable. I can do a 17/18/19 degree edge if desired, with each angle also using a different grit. I finished on the 320 grit stone last night, removed the knife and set the sharpener aside. Then I was able to clamp back up and start at the 600 grit edge and match up well enough to only need 10 passes per side to raise a small burr on each side. Also, for the two knives I’ve done, the stones are set to use their whole surface pretty well. I haven’t adjusted the O-rings.

I’m curious if a few more passes at 600 will help with the ceramic matching my Sharpmaker edges. I’m also curious what the set of fine stones and a strop would do. For heavy rebeveling, the coarse set would likely be needed. Next is my Spyderco Wharnecliffe Endura. We’ll see if the Work Sharp can go low enough to match the edge on it, estimated below 15 degrees.
 
The lowest angle I sharpen to is 15 degrees on my Japanese kitchen knives. 20 degrees on my pocket and hunting knives.
 
17/20 is as high as I go. Most of mine are 12/15. I have a kitchen knife for chicken bones at 22 but that’s it above 20.
 
$6? That’s the cost of the knife. In all honesty, it’s not used for that very often, but it is used for heavier cutting in general.
 
Oh, that’s kind of the opposite of the way I went. I locked in my Misuzu Japanese Bunka and dialed the angle all the down until it stopped. The stone still cleared the clamp so off I went. I’m guessing somewhere near 11 or 12 degrees per side then deburred and honed in the 15 degree slots of my Sharpmaker with the medium brown stones. It’s sharp now that’s for sure.
 
What a high-end knife steel really buys you is the ability to sharpen to a more acute angle without worrying about edge damage.
 
Edge angle is highly sensitive to the user and use. Generally the best advice is to lower the edge a little with each sharpening until one sees damage, then go back up one increment. I plan to lower my Kershaw edge to 15 degrees next time, down from 17. As long as it doesn’t get damaged and I don’t hit either the thumb studs or the Work Sharp clamp, I might even go lower. 2 degrees at a time seems like a good plan with the angle control afforded by the Precision Adjust.

By the way, for anyone really into this sort of thing, it’s worth noting the angle settings will be different for different knives. If I sharpen my son’s Bugout at 20 degrees and my Spyderco Santoku at 20 degrees, they are not the same. The Santoku has a much wider blade and changes the angle between the stone and edge compared to a knife with a 3/4” wide blade. Don’t take the angles as absolutes. The numbers are very useful for reference and the angle control allows some very even and repeatable edges but the exact angles aren’t the same as what the setting is.
 
DMW1116 said:
Edge angle is highly sensitive to the user and use. Generally the best advice is to lower the edge a little with each sharpening until one sees damage, then go back up one increment. I plan to lower my Kershaw edge to 15 degrees next time, down from 17. As long as it doesn’t get damaged and I don’t hit either the thumb studs or the Work Sharp clamp, I might even go lower. 2 degrees at a time seems like a good plan with the angle control afforded by the Precision Adjust.

By the way, for anyone really into this sort of thing, it’s worth noting the angle settings will be different for different knives. If I sharpen my son’s Bugout at 20 degrees and my Spyderco Santoku at 20 degrees, they are not the same. The Santoku has a much wider blade and changes the angle between the stone and edge compared to a knife with a 3/4” wide blade. Don’t take the angles as absolutes. The numbers are very useful for reference and the angle control allows some very even and repeatable edges but the exact angles aren’t the same as what the setting is.
Click to expand...
Most of the knives I've sharpened on my Wicked Edge don't even have the same bevel angles on both sides so I have to even them up. I start each knife by using a black marker on the edge and adjusting the angle until it takes the black off the edge, then I go to sharpening/re-beveling.

Some makers sharpen their knives on a grinder and I use to do that too until I realized that the finished knife, while fairly sharp, has about 10 different angles on the blade edge. I took to making a rough edge then finishing on the Wicked Edge with much better results.
 
Agreed that angles change with with the different heights of blades. I use this angle gauge on my Wicked Edge sharpener to get the correct angle(s).

NvAECmol.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

SteadyD
  • Locked
Worksharp Precision Adjust giveaway
2
Replies
35
Views
1K
Speedo66
Speedo66
The Night Rider
  • Locked
Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener
Replies
10
Views
484
Mal H
Mal H
JohnKSa
Sharpener Type More Important than Blade Steel?
Replies
7
Views
535
ms6852
ms6852
Z
  • Locked
Sharpener
Replies
10
Views
826
Zeke/PA
Z
hso
  • Locked
Quick initial review of the Worksharp knife sharpener
Replies
13
Views
1K
TimboKhan
TimboKhan
Back
Top