243winxb
Member
Great point.Especially now that there are so many people wet polishing and stripping the brass of any lubrication at all
Squeaky clean brass needs lube.
Cartridge brass is 70% copper and 30% zinc.
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Great point.Especially now that there are so many people wet polishing and stripping the brass of any lubrication at all
Hornady One Shot dries and doesn't need to be removed. I've been using it for about five years and have never cleaned it off, and have never had a problem. After spraying you do need to let it dry completely before sizing.For 9MM, you lubers say that you lube the cases and size/deprime, immediately "bell" the case mouth, prime, powder, seat and crimp. Without ever removing the lube? I have been lubing, sizing/depriming, and then tumbling before any of the remaining steps. Trying to keep lube out of the inside of the case., which I think is important.
Am I missing something?
Cooking spray is an emergency use only item.... I'll admit to recommending it once in troubleshooting, but it's not a regular thing....I use carbide pistol dies. I even went so far as to make a shorter lever for my press for 44 special and below because I didn't need the leverage of the full length RCBS handle with no lube. Just wasted motion.
I do go switch to the factory handle and spray lube if sizing 44 mag cases. My shoulder has been surgically rebuilt and I try to reduce stress on it as much as possible, either with less movement or more leverage.
Cooking spray is just messy. One try was enough to do me.
I used the actual Bag Balm straight for the myth busting thread as that's what I use for lubing rifle cases for resizing - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...affect-on-neck-tension-bullet-setback.834035/@LiveLife did you use actual bag balm or pure lanolin in your test?
The bag balm is petroleum jelly based with a smaller amount of lanolin added, so I could see that remaining slippery after drying. I spray mine in the gallon zip lock bag, when it dries it actually gets…I don’t know the right word for the description but let’s call it slightly tacky…almost kinda grippy. I haven’t had any problems with setback and I load for 357 sig which is pretty notorious for setback. Maybe I haven’t had any issues because I don’t use a lot and I spray the inside of the bag, not the brass itself?I used the actual Bag Balm straight for the myth busting thread as that's what I use for lubing rifle cases for resizing - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...affect-on-neck-tension-bullet-setback.834035/
I hate the thought of lubing pistol cases.
And it’s a necessity. For cases going through the progressive I use One Shot, for the SS I use Imperial wax. I will wipe the wax off the case, but I don’t do any after sizing tumble.I hate lubing rifle cases already and I do a lot fewer of them.
I normally put 50-100 cases in the box, but otherwise lube pistol cases the same way.Just to be clear, so do I! Especially when I bought the darn carbide dies to be able to loose the lube. I definitely did not want to hand lube each case like I do with rifle cases, so I went the One Shot route. I use a cardboard box that I dump 100-200 cases in, and just give it a 1-2 second spray, shake it a bit, and another 1-2 second spray. I don’t line them up or monkey with them in any way other than that, wait a bit and into the case feeder they go. The spray lands randomly but it distributes in the dies. If it was anymore involved than that, I’d let the carbide work the brass.
And it’s a necessity. For cases going through the progressive I use One Shot, for the SS I use Imperial wax. I will wipe the wax off the case, but I don’t do any after sizing tumble.
I’ve been spraying lube in a bag and shaking the brass around for a while now, especially 9MM brass. I then add in unlubed, cleaned brass after the lube has dried and mix them together, probably a 33% lubed to unlubed mix. This works for me in keeping everything moving nice and smooth. It really is amazing the difference in the handle pull when using lubed brass. Thanks Jake, your advice is always appreciated.
I'm wondering what "professionals" gave this advice and what benefit they claimed it had.Advice from a professional. -Lube your pistol cases
I took advice from professionals a long time ago to buy carbide pistol dies and not lube. It has worked for me. Everyone who lubes agrees with you. Everyone who doesn't lube doesn't agree with you. Ford vs Chevy.
Those who believe using carbide sizing die doesn't need lube consider this.I'm wondering what "professionals" gave this advice and what benefit they claimed it had.I took advice from professionals a long time ago to buy carbide pistol dies and not lube. It has worked for me. Everyone who lubes agrees with you. Everyone who doesn't lube doesn't agree with you.
Most were professionals who manufactured and sold reloading dies and/or reloading manuals. True, their opinions were probably biased, but Like I said, it has worked for me. ymmvI'm wondering what "professionals" gave this advice and what benefit they claimed it had.
Definitely agree that age/physical/medical issues can make lubed brass (and/or store bought ammo) an attractive option, that's a different ball of wax from generic advice.Those who believe using carbide sizing die doesn't need lube consider this.
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So while I can still comfortably manage to resize unlubed 9mm brass on SPP/Pro 1000/UTP sitting down, I can imagine some reloaders with age/physical/medical related issues being helped with resizing lubed brass.
Somehow I don't see spraying a couple of sprits into a plastic bag and moving them around as a huge issue of dealing with lube...certainly nothing compared to lubing rifle cases...but you're right, YMMVThe benefit to me is not dealing with case lube, unless you consider Flitz or Nufinish added to crushed walnut shells in a vibratory tumbler to be dealing with case lube. If so, then I do agree with lubing pistol cases, but not because of sizing effort, but rather to keep cases from hanging onto the expander.
Lubing pistol cases has nothing to do with accuracy improvement and everything to do with efficiency and reducing the amount of force need to accomplish the task of reloading. I don't know how much difference it would make on a single stage press, but lubing cases on a progressive press easily reduces the force need by 50%I’m not a bench rest or bullseye shooter, so whatever minute accuracy improvement you may see by lubing pistol cases for a carbide sizing die is of no consequence to me. I simply offered my opinion and experience regarding professional advice to lube pistol brass. We obviously disagree, but there’s nothing wrong with that either.
I have a friend who I introduced to reloading who is in his early 30s and works stocking shelves...so I'm thinking his has pretty good strength and range of motion.Definitely agree that age/physical/medical issues can make lubed brass (and/or store bought ammo) an attractive option, that's a different ball of wax from generic advice.
Yes, absolutely! Wax is a fantastic lubricant. I use wax-based buffing compound in my walnut and it makes a big difference vs. “squeaky clean” fresh from the dryer mega-Lemishined brass. Like Brylcreem, just a dab will do you.unless you consider Flitz or Nufinish added to crushed walnut shells in a vibratory tumbler
Can't argue with any of that, I just choose not to expend the time and effort to lube pistol brass other than with tumbling media additives that I mentioned earlier. I offered a different opinion than Jake's, but like I said earlier, it works for me and ymmv. Different strokes for different folks. My original mention of Ford vs Chevy was just to point out that different camps have different opinions, not intended to derail the thread into a debate for or against either one.Just because we don’t have to use lube with carbide pistol sizers, doesn’t mean it’s a negative to do so. Posters have given some good reasons to do so. The only negative I see is lube on cases, but no one is saying that glob lube all over the cases, and most are saying minimal lube is all it takes. Then either tumble the cases like we do with rifle, or just leave it on, depending on what lube and how much is, IMHO, deciding factor there.
The benefit to me is not dealing with case lube, unless you consider Flitz or Nufinish added to crushed walnut shells in a vibratory tumbler to be dealing with case lube. If so, then I do agree with lubing pistol cases, but not because of sizing effort, but rather to keep cases from hanging onto the expander.
I simply offered my opinion and experience regarding professional advice to lube pistol brass. We obviously disagree, but there’s nothing wrong with that either.
As with any advice that we receive, it's our perrogative as to whether we think it is wise for us to take it. I'm not offended by anyone that doesn't want to take my advice, but just keep it in mind if you ever have any of the issues that I mentioned.Can't argue with any of that, I just choose not to expend the time and effort to lube pistol brass other than with tumbling media additives that I mentioned earlier. I offered a different opinion than Jake's, but like I said earlier, it works for me and ymmv. Different strokes for different folks. My original mention of Ford vs Chevy was just to point out that different camps have different opinions, not intended to derail the thread into a debate for or against either one.