Anything can be broken. I broke my 10mm Elite Match

Status
Not open for further replies.
How about some photos that don't involve signing in to Facebook?

They (Colt) said the original Delta slide cracks were inconsequential. So there's that.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I didn't even realize they had that option here. Next time but that is easier for me to do.
 
Well, no one will be able to see the pics since the link just redirects me to my own wall. I think only people who are friends with you will be able to see them. Posting pics here is really simple and would help make this thread worth while. That or a better description of where the crack is...
 
I thought everyone could see it since I made it public. Learn something new...

See if these work
 

Attachments

  • Crack1.jpg
    Crack1.jpg
    47.6 KB · Views: 179
  • Crack2.jpg
    Crack2.jpg
    43.2 KB · Views: 194
Send it back to EAA. I've heard 10mm slide cracks, but crack at mag release is a new one.
 
I could. Probably run $40-$50 to go there and back. Not terrible but I'm just thinking the replacment may do the same. Lots of meat in areas around where I don't think it will do anything.
 
Sorry to see you are having these issues. I think the very least I would do is contact them and see what they say.
 
I'd send it back if you're up to it. I don't think it can be assumed another would react the same but I get what you're thinkin'.

I'd certainly be looking into an uprated spring.
 
It has a 22lb Wolff spring and a Henning flat bottom firing pin block. Doesn't get much better than that.

I think where it cracked their is litterly no meat from side to side on the backside of the release. I bet it had more to do with putting mags in than anything else.

My thoughts on sending it in is if (Big IF!) they replace the frame I would have to re-register the new serial. $50 goes to $130!
 
It is a well known problem with 10mm Tanfoglio pistols because the factory recoil spring is too weak for the caliber. But since you put a 22lb one on yours the lack of steel in that area is probably the cause of the crack. Don't forget that Tanfoglio frames are cast. For now you do need a replacement gun from EAA. In other cases they replaced the gun with no questions.
 
Last edited:
I understand not wanting to go through the hassle of a new number but think that whatever work the cracked portion was performing or was supposed to perform in holding the pistol together has now been transferred "on down the line" so to speak. At a minimum, I would magna-flux the frame if you get to shooting it much more.

Additionally - as a manufacturer, we several times re-ran a number after confirming destruction of the original (on site). If this is still allowed - perhaps they'll do it for you.

Being cast "stainless" welding can be problematic but not impossible for a qualified shop.
 
If it is new the company should replace the frame. I do not consider it acceptable to have a cracked frame on a pistol under warranty.
 
Being cast "stainless" welding can be problematic but not impossible for a qualified shop.

It's not stainless. Cast steel with hard chrome finish. It would TIG fine, but would have to be refinished.

That is a strange place for a crack; Not really much stress there. Could have been a casting flaw. It's probably harmless, but still worth a call to EAA.

re-ran a number after confirming destruction of the origina.....If this is still allowed - perhaps they'll do it for you.

It's perfectly legal. Whether or not they'll do it is another matter.
 
^+1 On the TIG weld or laser weld process. Call the manufacturer first if that does not pan out find a welder. Just about any decent TIG welder with a little buzz box could fix that for you.
 
It is a well known problem with 10mm Tanfoglio pistols because the factory recoil spring is too weak for the caliber.

This may sound abrasive, and it's not meant that way -- but how do you (or does anyone) know that the 10mm guns are under-sprung?

The guide rod causes the recoil spring to be pressed against the frame regardless of the force of the round, and that position on the frame is pretty stout. Much of the force of the round is transferred to the slide and stored in the spring, but some of it is handled by the hammer spring, as the slide goes back. Anything not stored in those springs goes into you -- as felt recoil. But even a heavier recoil spring uses YOU as the base (solid point) against which the spring is charged. It's not really all that hard on the gun. The gun doesn't really know the difference.

But, if you install a heavier recoil spring, the slide slams FORWARD after the shot with much greater force than it would do with weaker springs , and only the slide stop and frame deal with that extra. A heavier hammer spring added to the stock recoil spring might have the same effect (in changing the shooter's experience of FELT RECOIL) and not be as hard on the gun as the slide moves forward to finish the shooting cycle.

I've heard of folks firing guns with the recoil springs removed -- 1911Tuner who participates here willl do it with a .45 -- and the force is apparently not all that different than firing a sprung gun. That's because the recoil spring's main function isn't to CONTROL RECOIL but to store force that is used to CLOSE THE ACTION (while loading the next round).

Heavier recoil springs may be causing as many problems as they resolve -- unless spent brass can't be found.


.
 
Last edited:
I didn't even realize they had that option here. Next time but that is easier for me to do.

You posted in the middle of the day... Some of us are banned/proxied from fb and other sites while at work...

Sucks about the gun thou
 
Wait.

Aren't you the guy that has a 9 page post doing tests on the hottest loaded 10mm rounds offered by boutique companies?

:scrutiny:
 
Last edited:
wide cat mccane said:
Aren't you the guy that has a 9 page post doing tests on the hottest loaded 10mm rounds offered by boutique companies?

Nope. Not me.

I briefly had a 10mm top-end for my Witness Long Slide in .45, but only put a box of 10mm through it. (It was the shorter slide, not a long slide, but it worked fine.)

Never really saw the attraction of the 10MM round, but got such a good price on the top end, that I couldn't resist. Later sold the 10mm top end for more than I paid, which was the reason I bought it in the first place -- figured I could make a profit.

I have had a BUNCH of Witnesses and CZs, over the years. And have had good service out of nearly all of them.

That Long Slide busted a it's very expensive Supersight (nothing I did -- it just went walkabout), and the barrel cracked (near the chamber), while shooting factory .45 ammo. Neither problem was covered under warranty, as it was a used gun that I had traded into it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top