Just returned from range after using my new reloads. I used new Privi brass i got from Graf. IMR 4895 with 44.5 gr. Bullet was sierra hpbt 168gr. I started at 43gr and went to 45gr. I ended up shooting the best with 44.5gr. Was surprisingly accurate. I shot at 200 yards. The windage is really off but i just changed the POA and on an SR target they were all in the 10 ring. windage is off by about 24 inches so i had to shot at far left of SR target. I was able to recreate this POA everytime so not that bad. I am going to be on the lookout for a replacement rear site i saw on line to compensate. Overall very satisfied with my reloads and where they hit on the paper.
Reloading for my French MAS model 36
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armoredman
Member
Nifty! Had one of those rifles years ago, couldn't find a scrap of ammo, and didn't reload. Shoulda kept it.
Looks like there is more ammo out there now but still not much and expensive. Thought i would reload for it. It kicks pretty good and the trigger is about the toughest thing to pull. Overall i think i got a good rifle. It had never been shot so that was nice. Hope to get the rear sight replacement and see what it does to the windage. Like i said i started at 43gr and went to 45gr. did not want to go much higher. it seems pretty close to the K31.
The 6.5 X 55 case can be fireformed and then trimmed to use in the 7.5 French.
My MAS 36 rifles are not target rifles. And it did not take much to cause stiff bolt lift. The rifle is a rear locker and these are not as stiff as a front locker.
My MAS 36 rifles are not target rifles. And it did not take much to cause stiff bolt lift. The rifle is a rear locker and these are not as stiff as a front locker.
R.W.Dale
Member
If you make 7.5x54 mas brass from 6.5x55 you might as well make it from 30/06 .
Domestic half assed 6.5 Swede uses a .473" case head. That's already .007" undersized for for Swedish mausers. Use these cases for 7.5 French and you end up almost .020" undersized around the case web!
This is a prime example of load manuals not being the last word on a subject
My mas36 shot like it was a varmint rifle and cases lasted FOREVER with no sticky extraction. But then again. I may have been messing up by buying correct grafs brass at a lower price than 6.5x55
I used Norma. God awful expensive but it worked.
I shot the 6.5 X 55 in my MAS. Accuracy was horrible with the 6.5 bullets, at fifty yards, I aimed in the middle of the berm, and the bullets hit the top, bottom, anywhere. But they fireformed.
Why can't I ever get this lucky?
shuvelrider
Member
The French army armorer's set would have a series of rear aperture's to change out to "zero" the rifle to the assigned shooter. There is a "sticky" on Surplus Rifle Forum that showed all the apertures, like a chart in a manual.
I found on my 49/56, had to make my loads to the upper limit of the powder charge to function the action smoothly, but also tightened up the groupings immensely. Still working with my M36's, the semi is too much fun at the moment.
http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/index.php
I found on my 49/56, had to make my loads to the upper limit of the powder charge to function the action smoothly, but also tightened up the groupings immensely. Still working with my M36's, the semi is too much fun at the moment.
http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/index.php
R.W.Dale
Member
Slamfire try a 170 grain 30-30 bullet with lots of bearing surface.
As to the windage or lack thereof. I drilled/tapped my aperture out to take a 1/4" cap screw that was bored all the way through refilled with j-b weld and had a new aperture drilled off center. This way as I turned the cap screw the aperture mooved in an exccentric around the Cl of the bore.
As to the windage or lack thereof. I drilled/tapped my aperture out to take a 1/4" cap screw that was bored all the way through refilled with j-b weld and had a new aperture drilled off center. This way as I turned the cap screw the aperture mooved in an exccentric around the Cl of the bore.
yep, i will just buy my brass. i have really never reformed any and probably would do it wrong. 
I have figured out which rear leaf to get just got to find one. It appears i need the G8. now to find one on line. Mr. Dale I do like your idea on the aperture modification. cool. Again i was truly impressed with the rifles accuracy. I do almost all my shooting at 200 yards so i feel i got what i wanted. Just would like to get the poa to a normal. I know this might not be the forum for this question but i did notice my rifle has on the left side a very small stamp which says :c.a.i. st albans, vermont". Is that the company that imported it. just wondering. is the a legal thing a company has to do when they purchase firearms abroad. just wonding.
I have figured out which rear leaf to get just got to find one. It appears i need the G8. now to find one on line. Mr. Dale I do like your idea on the aperture modification. cool. Again i was truly impressed with the rifles accuracy. I do almost all my shooting at 200 yards so i feel i got what i wanted. Just would like to get the poa to a normal. I know this might not be the forum for this question but i did notice my rifle has on the left side a very small stamp which says :c.a.i. st albans, vermont". Is that the company that imported it. just wondering. is the a legal thing a company has to do when they purchase firearms abroad. just wonding.
Swampman
Old Fart
C. A.I. = Century Arms International
Be glad that they only IMPORTED it...
And yes, you are correct, weapons imported into the U.S. are required to have the importers information stamped on the weapon. I'm not certain of the exact requirements, but I do know that some do it more unobtrusively than others.
Be glad that they only IMPORTED it...
And yes, you are correct, weapons imported into the U.S. are required to have the importers information stamped on the weapon. I'm not certain of the exact requirements, but I do know that some do it more unobtrusively than others.
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