Good Find Today

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Sam Cade

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Rural Kentucky, surrounded by Amish
Negotiated my way into a rusty cleaver and a F.Dick steel of uncertain vintage for the princely sum of One American Dollar. :D


This is the cleaver after de-scaling.


A fine candidate for a sam-carta epoxy/fabric wrap handle.
 

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I'd drill the tang and put some good slabs on it with a heel swell. I also would reheat treat it to what has worked for you in the past and reprofile the back but leave the round hole and the extension of the mass out that end to enhance the chop. Then I would mirror (almost) polish it.:cool:
 
I'd drill the tang and put some good slabs on it with a heel swell.
You vastly over-estimate my industriousness. :D

Seriously though, this is practice for another project. I'll toss up a snap of it later this evening.


Then I would mirror (almost) polish it.:cool:

Thought about it, but the pits are so deep that a tremendous about of metal would have to be removed.

I'm pickling it right now trying to soak off some more rust and find out it is differentially or not.
 
Interested in that wrap.

Me too. :cool:

If it goes well I will be rehandling this Camillus produced Trailmaster blade that I rescued from a life of being thrown at a stump.:what:

Some people, I swear....

The worst part is that I would have to fabricate and fit a guard. I HATE fitting guards.
 

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The offset shape of the cleaver makes it look very much like part of an antique tobacco cutter.
 
If it goes well I will be rehandling this Camillus produced Trailmaster blade that I rescued from a life of being thrown at a stump.

I love seeing old Camillus knives come back to life. Grew up just a mile up the road from the factory and had several family members that worked there. My brother-in-law worked there right up until it closed.

Had the unfortunate honor of watching the old factory burn to the ground a few months ago. Pretty depressing.
 
The offset shape of the cleaver makes it look very much like part of an antique tobacco cutter.
I agree whatever it is, it isn't a meat cleaver.

Looks industrial to me, like a part off some sort of hand operated cutter for something.

At any rate, I don't think the 'tang' ever had a handle of the sort we think of on a cleaver.

rc
 
I'd say that is very possible.


It would go a long way toward explaining the lack of a real handle but most of the 'baccer cutters I have seen don't have any belly. Hmmm... maybe reground.
Something like one of these:
tab-7839-trantabac-1.jpg
 
Small update.

The mystery blade continues to soak, and rust continues to flake off in copious amounts with a bit of nudging from a nylon brush.

Looks like it has a real heat treat.

Quick shop snap:
 

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It will made a great shop knife since your not interested in making it a kitchen cleaver.


It will probably end up in the kitchen. I don't have much usage for a cleaver of that weight but think the blade shape (and super hard edge) would keep it from being useful in the shop.



On a related note, this is my recently refurbished shop knife/chicken chopper/barn stove kindlin' splitter/hillbilly japanese hatchet.

It lives outside most of the year.

Blade is whatever carbon steel the cheapest possible bush-hog blades are made from.:D
Scales are made from leftover flooring, a slathered with pine tar. Pins made from some bolts.
Heat treat via cutting torch and canola oil.

It gets all the scut work. I once lost it under the decking of my '76 mercruiser for about 6 months. :D
 

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Ok, folks.

Let us talk epoxy.

What kind should I use for doing the fabric wrap?

I know I am going to need something with a low viscosity and a long working time but other than that I am as a lamb amongst the lions.

Any suggestions?
 
It will probably end up in the kitchen. I don't have much usage for a cleaver of that weight but think the blade shape (and super hard edge) would keep it from being useful in the shop.



On a related note, this is my recently refurbished shop knife/chicken chopper/barn stove kindlin' splitter/hillbilly japanese hatchet.

It lives outside most of the year.

Blade is whatever carbon steel the cheapest possible bush-hog blades are made from.:D
Scales are made from leftover flooring, a slathered with pine tar. Pins made from some bolts.
Heat treat via cutting torch and canola oil.

It gets all the scut work. I once lost it under the decking of my '76 mercruiser for about 6 months. :D
Heavy Cleavers make cutting easier and that hard edge could be razor sharp.
 
Epoxy? Go with accruglass and call it good. Got a few knives from a maker that swears by out, got a friend who's starting to make knives who didn't listen to me and tried 1000lb epoxy and had it start separating on him pretty quick.
 
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