Ontario Butcher Knife

COuntZerO

This the cutout area on the handle (right above the brass rivet), that I referenced to in my post of the Russell Green River Works knife. Just a little grooved out space for my thumb to rest.

Ontario/Old Hickory is 1095, a simple but very well regarded carbon steel. They don't run them as hard as 1095 can go, probably because people would complain about them being hard to sharpen. If I were lost in the wilderness I can think of far worse choices to have with me then an Ontario butcher or boning knife.

They are great in the Kitchen and in the field.

I have one in the kitchen that belonged to my great aunt. The blade is nearly black from many years of use.My mom had gotten it after she had passed away ,and was going to toss it because it was rusty and dull ,not as pretty as the stainless steel blades . I asked if she would mind if I took it ,and after a little time and some work , its my best kitchen knife .

I made this a few years ago following a bushcraft article on the internet. Finally got to use it on a couple of antelope 2 weeks ago and it served nicely. I ground the underside of the handle to provide a little more of a guard but, otherwise followed the look of this knife. (The pic is from the article; not my knife).
Oil it or keep it dry after using it.
It's a good skinning/quartering/slaughter knife.
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How are you liking it so far? I only have experience with the 7-inch straight blade, but I love it. Being I got it for about 10 bucks and it is made out of a steel that is tough and easy to sharpen, I've come to like using it when I know the edge will likely make contact with bone.

Is the patina working well for you thus far? I've had good luck using forced patinas.

Did you do anything exciting with the patina (like ripplecutting the orange) to get an interesting looking pattern?

cdk8 said:

How are you liking it so far? I only have experience with the 7-inch straight blade, but I love it. Being I got it for about 10 bucks and it is made out of a steel that is tough and easy to sharpen, I've come to like using it when I know the edge will likely make contact with bone.

Is the patina working well for you thus far? I've had good luck using forced patinas.

Did you do anything exciting with the patina (like ripplecutting the orange) to get an interesting looking pattern?

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Sorry I missed your reply. I like the knife. It could have been made a little Rc harder for my applications but I just gutted an elk cow in December using only this knife and a saw on the breastbone.

It dresses well with a steel and sharpens easily using stones or automotive sandpaper on a strop. I haven't tried to force a patina but it has grown it's own. Having no nooks or crannies it's easy to keep clean and the Kydex sheath is dishwasher safe and doesn't hold moisture.

Here's what it looks like today:
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You can "pickle" the carbon steel finish with vinegar or lemon juice. Degrease the blade with acetone. Wrap paper towels around the blade and soak with vinegar. Put in a plastic bag and let set overnight. Wipe clean and oil. It will not rust again.

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If it ever does rust, again, (Because it might be hard to get a good sturdy patina on a smooth polished knife), just soak it in vinegar to remove the rust. If you have trouble getting your knife to stop rusting.... it's trying to help you. Stop scrubbing off all this good red rust, lol. The rust happens in the trouble spots, and when dipped in vinegar, it cures itself. The surface pitting helps to get a good patina where it is needed, and the rust easily/quickly reacts with the acid and is replaced with the "good rust."

Birchwood Casey Cold Blue paste works quite well on the Old Hickory blades to give them a little color.

I got a couple stayed sales like Bannockburn shows does in post 20. Great knives.