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I said nothing about a sealed container. If you put oil on a piece of steel and leave it out in the rain it won't rust as fast as the same piece of steel without oil. This isn't "my" fact, it's just a fact.

Every mechanic and anyone who regularly works on machines that spend time outdoors knows that that isn't true. Oily parts don't corrode as fast as not oily parts. That's not my opinion, it's just a fact. Oil, of all kinds, quite clearly helps prevent corrosion. Some do it better than others...

Something that stood out to me in many of these accounts is the frequency of warning shots. Something to be considered when we start talking about capacity. It's not necessarily strictly about how many shots it takes to put a bear down.

I see. I don't have a handgun in either caliber, but I guess if I was being charged by a bear and had both of them laying there I'd grab the 10mm, just because I'm more used to a semi auto. This is, of course, assuming that we're not talking about, say, a 10 mm GP100 and a .44 Mag Desert Eagle...

As someone who has never brought a vehicle to a mechanic, who has worked on heavy equipment and who has used firearms extensively for decades, I've seen plenty of what different oils do and don't do to protect different metals from corrosion. Don't need a study, but I'll do some looking anyway...

It's fun to talk about bear defense but realistically it's just not an issue. You're far more likely to get hit by lightning, die from malaria or have a branch fall from a tree and kill than you are to get mauled by a bear, especially if you're not in grizzly country. I live and recreate in...

Could you post a link to one or two?

Are we talking about wilderness in Wisconsin?

Really? Amazing that engines last as long as they do without corrosion protection. :rofl:

When you say "chainsaw oil", are you talking about the bar oil? If so, no, you should not attempt to make 2 stroke fuel using that. Shouldn't use motor oil either. Use 2 stroke oil. Because you stated that you "may go electric", giving us the impression, here in this discussion about bar oil...

You still need bar oil for an electric saw.

Yes, they are (I ran a chainsaw for a living for over 20 years, FWIW). All oil is to some degree or another. Will you never own another chain saw?

I know of folks who deer hunt with .410's. A 28 gauge would be a step up. That's not to say that I'm an advocate of that, just that it does happen. No sights could mean that the intention is for it to be used with a receiver mounted optic.

I've not heard this term. What is "the Canadian rule"?

I mount them myself. You could have a gunsmith or someone else do it for you but you have to be present when they do so that they can get the correct eye relief.

I see. No offense intended. Just wondered if there was any hard data on that. Sales figures or something of that nature. In fairness to the full size semi auto side, there are a whole lot more semi autos than revolvers out there in police hands these days, so it follows that there would be more...

Seems to be more of a training issue than a hardware issue. I hadn't heard that revolvers are becoming more popular. Just out of curiosity, how do you know?

Here is a list of links for the "tooling" needed to properly mount your scope. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-5-5-8-in-Line-Levels-Set-2-Pack-83038/100169030 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-60-lb-Tube-Sand-115960/100318522 Total cost is $10.62 + tax.

You can buy everything you need at Home Depot for less than $20.

That'd be like asking the salesman at Scheels to try on pants before you bought them. It's not really helpful, even if it's free and there's certainly no reason to assume that he knew what he was doing. If he did, he'd have told you that the eye relief needed to be set for you, not for him...