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I like mine, and I would give it the same review. Great concealability, great comfort, even with a really large pistol, but SLOW. I carry a 5" 1911 with an empty chamber, because I find the muzzle tends to cover my feet and legs frequently. So I am definitely looking at a dead slow draw...

Which brand is far, far less important than how much you practice with it. Buy anything decent, and go put a couple thousand rounds through it. Colt and Smith are pricey (and nice), but the others will serve. Btw, a 357 will also shoot 38, so I would go ahead and get one chambered in 357...

Is the hammer following? I.e. after one shot, is the hammer resting on the back of the bolt? You probably just need to adjust the hammer and disconnector so there is more engagement. If the bolt doesn't push the hammer down far enough, the disconnector doesn't catch it, and it follows. It...

I managed to fix it. The problem was someone had mismatched parts at some point. The plate that rides under the bolt (and probably the bolt too) was from a different model, and the notch that catches the lifter pawl was in the wrong place. I made it a little larger and it seems to work fine. I...

Good call. I am very confident I've got it together right, but since I've never handled a working example, I can't be sure. Problem is I can't find that model in the usual suspects. The "The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly Shotgun Part 5: Shotguns" doesn't have it, and I...

I'm not familiar with that rifle, but magazine spring tension should decrease with each round, so it's would seem it's not too much or to little, since the first two rounds should be under more pressure, and the last two under less. At the same time, tension is the only really obvious thing that...

I recently picked up a Springfield (aka Savage aka Stevens) model 67E pump shotgun, to convert to a replica of the Stevens 77E shotguns issued in Vietnam. Numrich has the original military buttstocks for these, so it's a fairly simple project. The 67E has issues with the lifter I was warned...

I'll check next time I'm in the shop, but I don't believe there's any play in any of my 7 AKs. You really need to invest in gauges to tell for sure. You are correct about fixing it if it's long. You remove the old pin, press the barrel in until it the bolt will close on GO but not NO GO, then...

Yikes. There should be no play. At least none of my AKs have any play when the bolt is closed. You need to fix headspace on that rifle. It sounds dangerously our of spec. Get a GO and NO GO gauge (I found mine on eBay for about $30) so you know what you're dealing with. Adjusting headspace...

You can improvise gauges with a cartridge and shims made out of feeler gauges, if you know the relative lengths of the real gauges. I had to do this for my 5.45 AK, as I couldn't find a source for gauges. Feeler gauge is $5 at the auto parts store, cartridges you already have, so it's a lot...

As long as the sear fits the new hammer just like the old, it's simple. No tools needed beyond detail stripping (small punch and light hammer is all I use). Perhaps I should say, if all the parts fit the new hammer just like the old. My Springfield was out of spec in many ways...the slot in...

I prowled eBay a long time to get a deal on some 1911 hammer and ser jigs. I never turned off the persistant search, so I got a message about these. Since people occasionally ask where they can get them used/cheap, I thought I'd post. These are not my auctions (my auction handle is...

At worst you bugger up your 1911 trigger so that it's unsafe and then, instead of sending the box of parts off to someone who knows what he's doing, you're a stubborn enough SOB to refuse to give up, so you buy a pile of 1911 jigs and sear, a set of stones, some feeler gauges, and spend hours...

Set up a persistent search for "1911 jig" on eBay. It took me a little while, but I got a sear jig AND hammer jig for $50 total, both in excellent shape and easy to use. They are the simple ones pictured in Kuhnhausen, about pages 81-82, I think, but worked just fine for me.

Yes, get both volumes. I had to refer to both for the very first problem I had to deal with on my 1911. Seems like so many new guns are off that measuring vs. specs is about the first step in diagnosis.

They should yes, but I think everything I have done has definitely "voided the warranty." I bought this gun as one that I could fiddle with and learn on without wrecking something expensive, so it is serving it's purpose, but I think after this experience, I would not buy another pistol from...

The holes were .009" too far apart by my measurement. Thanks for the confirmation. It's nice to be right now and then!

Automotive torque wrench might be cheaper (add "gunsmithing" to the title of something and the price doubles, you know), or you migh have one already. As long as you can get an adaptor for the bit you need, ft. lbs. or in. lbs. are the same whether the wrench is from Sears or Brownells...

I've never checkered anything, but looks good to me! Do you have jigs to align the cuts, or how is it done? I'll be tempted to try my hand someday if one can start making stuff that good in just a few weeks...

The saga of bad amateur gunsmithing continues, but there is light at the end of the tunnel. In the last installment (here), I swapped out my buggered hammer/sear with new parts, and all seemed well. Except that it wasn't. Fortunatly I played with the pistol some more before heading to the...