I just bought a brand new Rock Island Tactical in 9mm. After only 16 rounds the barrel link broke. There was apparently a crack in it from the factory, you can see where there is finish where the crack started. I know Rock Island will fix it or send me a new part but I would rather just replace it with a Wilson or other brand that won't break. These apparently come in several different lengths, 5 I think. Do I need to buy all of them or just the .278 one. Do I need a new link pin? I would like to order it ASAP.
1911 gurus I need your help-Barrel link?
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BBBBill
Member
A Rock may be a budget gun, but it needs the same correctly fit parts if it's going to function and have a reasonable service life. The question is why did it break in the first place. A correct length link has very little force applied at any point in the cycle of operation. Since you have the opportunity, why not measure and test fit to get it exactly right. If you need help with that, there are plenty of folks who can walk you through it.
Depending on where your link broke, it still might be useful in confirming your measurement for a replacement. Then you can determine whether you need just the .278" or need to get the 5 link kit.
Depending on where your link broke, it still might be useful in confirming your measurement for a replacement. Then you can determine whether you need just the .278" or need to get the 5 link kit.
The factory uses the .278 link. I recently replaced a broken link in my RIA 4" .45. I ordered a Wilson link and pin. Be advised the old pin will be VERY tight and the changeover will require a bench block, heavy punch, and a thinner punch. The WC .278 link will fit just fine but it is likely "tighter" or even oversized compared to the one you are replacing. Mine loosened up after installation with a drop of FireClean oil and running a few mags through the pistol. Be patient, don't rush, and you can do it if you are careful with the tools. If you're not sure, go to a gunsmith-- it is simple to do, but it's not easy.
ApacheCoTodd
member
I'm betting that the crack was initiated during a flawed assembly.
BBBBill
Member
I've seen several RIAs with questionable frame dimensions in the area of the VIS, both in photos and in hand. Haven't had a chance to measure one yet, but the possibility of a mis-located VIS due to their casting methods could result in the link being under tension at full link down. That will break a link pretty quickly. That is usually on the outer edge of the larger bottom hole.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
BBBBill likely nailed it.
The condition that he speaks of is called "Stopping on the link" and the barrel isn't supposed to do that.
And it'll break a link...and it'll also pull the lower lug off the barrel clean through to the chamber.
There's a quick test for it.
With the gun assembled, but the slidestop arm hanging vertically...push the muzzle firmly against a doorframe until it stops. Hold it there and see if the arm will swing freely. If it gets into a bind, the barrel is stopping on the link and it will cause a problem sooner or later. A matter of when and not if.
A problem can also come up even though the VIS is located correctly. If the bottom of the barrel hits the frame bed before or even at the same time as the rear face of the lower lug hits the VIS...it usually stretches or breaks the link, or pulls the lug.
The test is the same. The trick is figuring out whether it's the VIS or the barrel bed. Layout fluid is your friend.
The condition that he speaks of is called "Stopping on the link" and the barrel isn't supposed to do that.
And it'll break a link...and it'll also pull the lower lug off the barrel clean through to the chamber.
There's a quick test for it.
With the gun assembled, but the slidestop arm hanging vertically...push the muzzle firmly against a doorframe until it stops. Hold it there and see if the arm will swing freely. If it gets into a bind, the barrel is stopping on the link and it will cause a problem sooner or later. A matter of when and not if.
A problem can also come up even though the VIS is located correctly. If the bottom of the barrel hits the frame bed before or even at the same time as the rear face of the lower lug hits the VIS...it usually stretches or breaks the link, or pulls the lug.
The test is the same. The trick is figuring out whether it's the VIS or the barrel bed. Layout fluid is your friend.
ImperatorGray
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1911Tuner said:
How freely is freely? If it's not riding the link, will the barrel lugs be imparting some friction of their own?
maxxhavoc
Member
I would send it to Armscor and let them troubleshoot it. I had a 45 compact RIA that had issues relating to incorrect machining. They replaced the gun, and fit and polished the insides to a point that the replacement gun was darn near perfect. I don't know if their "apology" work is still to this level, or even if Arnel is still running the show, but their US warranty department is top notch.
I would also be willing to bet if you called beforehand, they would be glad to use Wilson parts in the repair if you specify it and provide the parts. They have done similar things before, and they will still probably cover the gun under the lifetime warranty.
I would also be willing to bet if you called beforehand, they would be glad to use Wilson parts in the repair if you specify it and provide the parts. They have done similar things before, and they will still probably cover the gun under the lifetime warranty.
BBBBill
Member
ImperatorGray said:
Not unless there's something substantially wrong with the barrel lug. The test is with the barrel unlocked/out of battery, so the link and slide stop should be well clear of the lower flat of the lugs with no contact at all. In that position the link should not be in tension or compression, so the slide stop arm should swing freely with no drag or bind.
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1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
As freely as it would if the slidestop pin was through just the frame.
With the slide pushed back a quarter-inch by pushing on the muzzle...where it comes to a hard stop...the barrel is completely unlocked and has dropped as far as the link will take it.
ImperatorGray
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Thanks to both of you, BBBBill and 1911Tuner. It's you and guys like you who brought me and countless others to this forum.
Now I'm wondering: Say a standard #3 link won't allow free swing, while the #4 will. But the #4 holds the barrel up so that the barrel feet don't touch the slide-stop shaft (and, presumably, may cause barrel lug peening). What's the appropriate fix?
Fit new barrel? Use #4 link with existing barrel, but weld the feet up and recut? Weld up the frame's "bowtie" so that the barrel hits and use the #3 link?
Now I'm wondering: Say a standard #3 link won't allow free swing, while the #4 will. But the #4 holds the barrel up so that the barrel feet don't touch the slide-stop shaft (and, presumably, may cause barrel lug peening). What's the appropriate fix?
Fit new barrel? Use #4 link with existing barrel, but weld the feet up and recut? Weld up the frame's "bowtie" so that the barrel hits and use the #3 link?
BBBBill
Member
Depends on the specific cause of the issue and just how bad it is. It's not unusual to find factory fit barrels riding the link with no contact with the barrel feet. Not desirable, but very common. That's the difference in a production gun and a hand fit gun. If it is not too extreme they will run like that for many years, but if you have a barrel related issue there's no reason not to take advantage of the opportunity to correct it for better fit/function. First step is to learn what right looks like and to check/measure the critical parts.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
That's a longer, wider issue than a simple fix can address...usually.
It usually means that either the VIS is located too far rearward or the lower barrel lug is too far forward.
Every Norinco I've ever owned or seen...save the one laying on the table this minute...has failed the test, but not miserably. The slidestop pin gets into a light bind. Not usually enough to cause a breakage problem, but bad enough that they make me a little uncomfortable. In every one, the problem was the barrel rather than the VIS...which is a good thing.
Installing the #4 link in a gun that should have a #3 could lead to the barrel striking the VIS before the upper lugs are completely disengaged...and that eats lugs while you wait.
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