2" Model 36, How did I do?

[45Badger]

Went to gun show today in Valley forge , PA.

Picked up a blue Smith and Wesson Model 36, 2". Gun is tight as a tick, possibly unfired, seriously excllent condition. $295 out the door. How did I do?

I'm a 1911 junkie, trying to expand my horizons. I know absolutely nothing about the value of these guns. The gun seems like a very well built little shooter.

All thoughts, facts, and opinions appreciated!

 

[sabre]

That sounds about right for a Model 36 in exc. condition.

Bill

 

[HSMITH]

I would have done it too, so my vote is you did pretty good! The 36 is a real gem, one of the best IMO. Learn to stroke the trigger on that little guy and it will do things that surprise you. It will make you a better handgun shooter regardless of what is in your hand, and give you a lot more confidence. All in all you are making a good move IMO.

 

[Ala Dan]

Not bad my friend! The model 36 (and its stainless
counter-part, the model 60) Smith & Wesson rank high
on my list of all time favorite's. These are amazing and
accurate little gem's; as I've been known to qualify on
the police A-post qualification course with my 2" barrel
model 60. Enjoy~

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member

 

[Mike Irwin]

Not bad.

36s in Northern Virginia are running in the $350 range or higher for ones in good condition.

 

[45Badger]

First 5 rounds (Winchester 130gr FMJ) at 15 yards- 4 shots inside 2" and a called flier about 5 " right of the group.

Still not a 1911, but a nice little back up. I'm thinking I did just fine!

 

[HSMITH]

Do yourself a favor and forget that there is a single action mode on that gun completely. You will never learn to shoot it fast and accurately nor improve your handgunning in general much at all by SA plinking.

 

[45Badger]

Funny you mentioned it- The "flyer" was shot single action!

The first three shots were a nice, smooth double action bang, bang, bang. No rush, just fast enough to keep sight picture consistent.

Then I thought, "I wonder how this shoots in single action?" Pulled hammer back, squeezed trigger, and saw a little hole appear in the white part of my target.

Reaquired target, shot last round double action, and he joined his friends in the black circle.

 

[HSMITH]

LOL, serves you right for thumbing that hammer!

 

[45Badger]

I have a silly question- Frame on this gun appears to be round butt, but I have no idea what frame style it is. How do you tell? J, K, N, whatever? Thanks!

 

[Mike Irwin]

Model 36 is a J-frame.

You can tell by becoming familiar with the model numbers, and what numbers are assigned to each of the guns.

Kind of confusing at first, but it gets easier after the first 100 hours of study.

 

[Mike Kerr]

It is a J frame. I have one, and have had two others. They are nice little guns but you need to be careful of shooting large quantities of heavy 38Spl loads in the J frame. Some seem to take it quite well, others get end shake of the cylinder (see the little shims and washers in front of the cylinder where the ejection rod goes through the crane block) I have had to shim in there and have some small screws replaced etc.

On the other two 36's I had, I never had a problem but I only put 300-400 rounds in each one before selling them. I kept the one which had the best finish and put Eagle Secret Service grips in rosewood on it. It is a very special little gun, in my view, since it was a gift from my dad.

I have had guys in my IDPA club tell me that their newer 36's made in the last few years are much stronger in the "small parts area" and have not shaken loose on them.

You said you are a 1911 guy and so am I. If you shoot .45ACP in the quantity I do its a different ball of wax when it comes to the little J frames regarding the quantity of ammo they are designed for. If you don't know the year it was built post the model number or the first three digits of the serial number and I or some other member can check Roy Jinks book on Smith and Wesson and come pretty close to dating it.

Regards,

Neat, classic looking little guns aren't they ?

 

[Mike Kerr]

45 Badger, let me correct my previous post. Mr Jinks name is just that. Not Jenks. I also forgot that the engineering changes are not denoted by dash model numbers on the Model 36. A 36-1 means a Square butt in 3" I believe and so on. However, it can generally be dated by the serial number.

Sorry for the mistakes,

Regards,

 

[Mike Irwin]

Roy's book, and the serial number information contained therein, is 30 years out of date.

The up-to-date reference that any S&W owner should have is "The Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson" by Rick Nahaus and Jim Supica.

 

[45Badger]

Questions and answers make more questios.

Serial number is BNE0xxx. Model # is m36-7. Any idea on age?

How many rounds can I expect to shoot before it wiggles loose or blows up? Thanks!

Edited for owner's security-John

 

[FPrice]

"Serial number is BNE0xxx. Model # is m36-7. Any idea on age?"

Looks like about Feb 1993. S&W went to a three-letter four-digit serial numbering system about 1980.

 

[BigG]

Good catch, Badger! I know everybody said to keep your thumb off the hammer but I'll say that they are giving you the straight dope. Shooting DA is a new thing compared to shooting single action autos but once you learn it you'll see the value of pulling straight thru on the DA trigger. Then you can shop for a Centennial.

 

[M2HMGHB]

Jackson Sporting Good's has 5 model 36 revolvers, prices range from 200-250. This is in NJ