22LR ammo for Ruger MkIII

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CAnnoneer

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I am a 9mm guy who is new to the world of 22. I bought a Ruger MkIII (BBL 5.5 STS) yesterday, which begs the question what it would like being fed without problems, while having decent ballistics at pistol ranges and keeping the price reasonable. Wolf is banned at my range.

Also, is there a lead-up problem and how do you clean it out of the barrel? FMJ did not produce such considerations.

Since the barrel is so narrow, what do you use to clean it? How often do you clean a MkIII ? I heard there was some problem with taking them down and the manual has an error. Where can one download the proper instructions?

Many thanks in advance.
 
I have a Ruger MKII Target that runs fine on the Federal Lighting available at KMart for $8-$9 a brick. I keep the internals (the ones I can reach without disassembly, breechface, most of the bolt and boltface, chamber, etc.) clean with Hoppe's soaked qtips. I will occasionally dismantle it for a thorough cleaning, but never bother with the bore or worry about leading.
 
A great resource is Rimfirecentral.com. Not to discount many of the fine folks here at THR..

I have a couple of MKII's. Have had four in all. Some of my friends have MKII's. I don't know that there's a typo in the manual at all. But you can always go to Ruger.com to download the latest print.

All you need is a paper clip for a take down tool. Don't worry about rapping the barrel off the frame with a block of wood, (I use a leather mallot, holding the frame in my left hand, hitting the rear of the reciever with mallot with my right hand. Some people just rapp the same on the gun bench with the muzzle pointed up. I lay a nice fluffy towel on the bench in case I hit too hard and make the barrel fall off quicker than I can catch it. In time, you'll learn how hard to smack it. In time it may just push off with some brute force by hand.). But you don't normally need to compelely dissassemble any more often than a thousand rounds. (or twice that) -Depending on what dirty ammo you're running. As for reassembly, the key is knowing where the hammer spur is, where it's supposed to be, how to get it there, when you're reinstalling the mainspring housing. It's just like anything, a little practice goes a long way. The easiest way to learn this is to get with a buddy that has a MKII. He'll show you how. Then you'll laugh, because it's so easy. Not like some of the reassembly horror stories we've all heard.

I've tried some of the most expensive ammo through my MKII's and have found that CCI copper plated, WinX, WinT22 function quite admirably. And, the Win's are up there with some of the top shelf target ammo when it comes to accuracy. Mine and a buddy's MKII will print one ragged hole at 25yds from Ransom rest with them. No need to buy the really espensive stuff, but the middle of the road are good. I have had more misfires, not misfeeds with RWS than any other brand. I even shot some Federal match for a while, while accurate, the misfires affected my Bullseye scores. Back to the WinX I went.

As for cleaning. Full dissassembly is not required for just clearing lead from the barrel. The lands aren't huge, so leading isn't a big issue, but you do need to clean them once in a while. Pull the main spring housing, pull the bolt. Clean from the breach with a .22 rod and patches with your favorite lead solvent. You'll need a 10" rod to do it this way. Not the standard short pistol rod.

If you're shooting the CCI's, you'll still have to clean out copper fowling.

When I clean:
  • Pull the grips
  • Remove mainspring housing
  • Remove bolt
  • Clean bolt and springs and firing pin
  • Remove barrel/reciever from lower frame
  • Spray out trigger and moving components in frame with Gunscrubber.
  • Lube frame internal moving components with Breakfree
  • Spray out and brush clean reciever
  • Clean bore with patches/brush
  • Spray out reciever again
  • Reassemble
  • Go shooting!

Once you fall in love with this little plinker that's inexpensive to shoot, there are several modifications available. While the Browning Buckmark may have a better trigger out of the box, the Ruger has more options available for trigger, sights, grips, internal springs, hammer and sear, firing pins, extended releases for magazine and bolt stop, compensators (not to mention that magazines are cheaper, but don't buy the plastic ones).

WWW.Volquartsen.com is a good source. Clark Custom Guns has stuff for them and I'll plug Trapper Springs as the first modification I make to a MKII.

I'll call these the 1911's of the Rimfire shooters, since there's so much you can do to make them function as part of your hand. Accurate enough for Bullseye. Quick enough for Speed Steel. Reliable as hell.

http://www.cnw.com/~hotrod/Toys/GunStuff/4inchBull.JPG

http://www.cnw.com/~hotrod/Toys/GunStuff/SlabSide.JPG
 
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Why would wolf be banned? The .22 ammo is not the same as the CF ammo. I shoot wolf .22 ammo all the time and that stuff is cheap and very accurate and reliable.

any standard velocity ammo should work in your gun. If you are going to shoot over 50 feet (i.e. outdoor bullseye, 50 yards slowfire) you may want to try rws, eley, wolf, aguilla, etc... and ransom rest that to find the best that groups at 50 yards.

You should NEVER clean the barrel with a metal wire brush. I only use a patch moistened with hoppes #9 and then follow that with a clean patch. The chamber and breech face should be cleaned with solvent and then wiped dry and then lightly oil the moving parts.

cleaning once every 500-2000 rounds depending on reliability of the gun when it's dirty is reasonable.
 
PMC Sidewinders work GREAT in my 22/45 Slabside Target. A bit dirty, but cheap, flawless, and dead accurate. Use a rag to wipe the fouling off the chamber face every 500 rounds.

Clean the whole gun every 2000 rounds. Accuracy starts to fall off after 4 bricks.:p
 
I've found a lot of good tips and information on this forum: http://www.markii.org/forum/.

Lot's of discussions about ammo, cleaning and disassembly. I believe I even ran across a video on this site demonstrating disassembly. There are also downloads with pictures and better instructions than the Ruger manual.
 
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