.44 Special Loading Problems

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ElPasoCounty

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I'm loading some .44 Special...My first pistol and straight wall case loads in anything...

I'm using Remington Brass with Hornady XTPs in RCBS Carbide Dies...

Six of the cases were crushed when the bullet didnt seat and I had to be carefull with the rest...

Is there a step in the process I am missing?

Thanks in advance...
 
It sounds like you didnt flare the case mouth enough and when you seated the bullet, Caused the bullet to crush the case under force. I have done this a few times and it happens when I don't flare enough. Also, Make sure you resizing your cases fully.
 
Sounds like you did not expand the case mouth enough to seat the bullet. Read through the instructions that were included with your die set - screwing the expander die in a little deeper should open the case mouth enough to start the bullet.
 
New or once fired brass, Resize it and expand it. Always good to make sure it's done right.
 
I have done that a few times. Kinda makes you mad because you just destroyed good cases. Ones like .44 mag are expensive. Just take your time and remember to bell and you will be fine. Good luck and happy reloading
 
new unprimed brass should be prepared before you prime, charge and seat.

size the brass, trim all to the same length, chamfer the case mouth (inside and outside), clean the oil and shavings from the brass (make sure the brass is completely dry after cleaning), bell the case mouth (use one of the bullets you are going to reload to make sure you get enough bell).

prep the brass once and you should be able to reload and reshoot them forever.

murf
 
Murf is correct. My Starline brass .44special was new when bought. After careful prep and care It is now on 10 reloads, no problem. These loads are not hot. .44special is a lot of fun to shoot and actually rather cost effective. Enjoy and Happy reloading
 
I agree that once the pistol brass is sized and trimmed to the same spec it will not have to be done again for the life of the case. IMHO my "new" brass is in rougher shape than the once fired brass I get. At least the once fired has been "tested" and functioned once correctly.:D You have to bell the mouth of revolver brass a small bit, enough that the bullet will slide past the lip without catching. Excessive belling and crimping will work the brass faster and shorten the case life fast. I would use the inside chamfer tool and just give the new to me brass a twist to get rid of the burrs that were made when it was length sized the first time also. I would do the same but even more lightly to the outside for auto pistol brass to help with feeding of rounds. After the first time neither would have to be done again unless they are trimmed again. Hang in there you will be a master of this art in short order.:)
 
FYI ... seating and crimping , in the same step can be a PITA also... consider doing it in seperate steps.
 
I do all my seating and crimping separate also. In fact I do all pistol or revolver separate. I bilieve that quality control is better. After seating, it gives me a chance to inspect all rounds and if A-OK crimp. If adjustment is needed it is easy to correct. Same for crimping stage. I use 4 die sets even if I have to buy the crimper die extra. I just like the control in the process. Good luck and Happy reloading
 
FYI ... seating and crimping , in the same step can be a PITA also... consider doing it in seperate steps.
I've never found that to be the case, nor have I ever felt the need to seat and crimp seperately. It's an unnecessary extra step.
 
CraigC , you are correct, but for a new comer , doing both at the same time , can try anyones patience.... my first 45/70 rounds ( decades ago ) confused and made me second guess what I was doing needlessly,granted I couldn't sign on to the web , and post a question " As to what I was doing wrong... ). Until he gets the hang of reloading, I still suggest considering doing those two things seperately.
 
Roll Crimps are easier to setup and do for a novice than a Taper Crimp. But it's a very common mistake of have the die body set to low when your adjusting the bullet depth. They can physically see the roll crimp into the canalure grove. Taper crimp not so, and hard to see until you over do it. Doing them in separate steps is just easier to start off with. But if you follow the directions that come with the dies it should be a No Issue.
 
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