442 cylinder movement front to back

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Robert B

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:)I have a 442-1 that is less than a year old. I have only ran 40 +P's through it and zero standard pressure .38's. I noticed a clicking noise recently every time that I holstered it in my pocket holster. Upon inspection this morning, I am able to move the cylinder from front to back. When I do this, I hear the noise. Also, I can see that the BC gap gets bigger as I move the cylinder towards the grips. I called S and W, and they are sending me a shipping lable. The tech on the phone, however, was not sure if this was really a problem. What do you guys and gals have to say about this? Thanks in advance.
 
You must have very good hearing. It sounds like you have endshake which just about every Smith and Wesson revolver suffers from sooner or later. Considering the way things are made these days it's probably a good idea to send it back or at least have a gunsmith look at it.
 
safe and reliable until fix?

Is my J frame safe to shoot in a SD situation with this endshake until I send it in to S and W? Will the firing pin still reach the primer with a good strike?
 
Is my J frame safe to shoot in a SD situation with this endshake until I send it in to S and W? Will the firing pin still reach the primer with a good strike?

Unfortunately no one on this forum can tell you, because they have no way to examine your revolver. The amount of end-shake can be determined by using a set of feeler gauges of the kind usually used to gap spark plugs.

You hold the cylinder back as it will go, and use the gauge to measure the gap between the cylinder and barrel. Then repeat but push the cylinder forward as far as it will go.

Revolve the cylinder and check the condition in front of each chamber.

Take the first reading (cylinder backwards) and subtract the second (cylinder forward) and the difference = end-shake.

If you consider this too hard to do, have a local gunsmith or mechanic do it.

One way or the other, once you have the results you can discuss the number with Smith & Wesson, and follow whatever they say too do.
 
I believe MidwayUSA has very thin washers that can be added to accomodate for the end movement. However, realize that there should most likely be some end movement in there to prevent the cylinder from binding, as the dimensions may not be exactly the same for all five cylinder hole locations in line with the forcing cone of the rear of barrel.

Not only may the cylinder be different in the front, it may also be different for the rear, which includes the ejector (star) that turns the cylinder with each shot. That star has to be exactly-on for proper timing to occur. You do not want that star and its associated parts binding!
 
Your best bet is to ship it back to Smith&Wesson like your doing, if it's excessive they will either stretch the yoke back to serviceable limits or replace the yoke completely. It shouldn't have that much endshake already.
 
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