.45 Auto RIm - The underloaded round...

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Remington used to market ammo under the Peters name as well as
Remington name, UMC is the same sort of company uh
United Metallic Cartridge or something - they have to make
ammo to SAAMI Spcis/dimensions is all

Starline unprimed brass cases

http://www.starlinebrass.com/index.php?cPath=1&osCsid=9fd6b1b96b6f07001bf5fbf14363a14a

Starline Brass prices of
new unprimed cases per 500
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.45 ACP = $ 78.75 = 15.75 cents cach
.45 ACP +P = $ 85.95
.400 CorBon = $ 101.55
.45 Auto RIm = $ 85.55 17.1 cents each
.45 Colt = $ 88.90


Randall
 
.38 Special,
I'm sorry you are having problems with your 22. The EDM bore process shouldn't have anything to do with bore leading. If the boolit is properly sized for the barrel it should be fine. If anything I've found the EDM barrels to be "faster" and more precise than the older ones when the EDM equipment is properly maintained. I have gotton a bad EDM barrel, it was replaced, remember these days you are the QC inspector.
 
The 45 AR is underrated much like the ACP is in modern pistols. No reason you can't load it to 45 Super levels and probably beyond in a modern revolver. The problem is finding load data. I did much reading on this a few years back and I'm of the opinion that there is no difference between 45 AR, ACP, ACP +P, or Rowland brass in a fully supported chamber such as the S&W 625. Be safe.
 
I have one of those S&W model 17 revolvers that take either a .45 or .45 auto rim. It has a lip inside the chambers so that you can load the .45 ACP without a half moon clip. You must drop them in, and pull them out with your finger nails.

You can load the auto rim cases with jacket ball rounds and the guns shoots as hard as the standard 1911. It's just a great gun and the .45 auto rim is easy to load and lots of fun to shoot and it's a great personal safety guns.
 
Sorry to hear this about your Mod 22 .38 Special. I've had leading with
cast bullets in my 625 but it's a Leadhead 200 gr. SWC
at 1,025 FPS I do like the Model 22 seems they oughta be able to
position the cylinder correctly in relation to the rear face of the
frame I'm wondering if Hamilton Bowen could do something with
a front sight alternative to the round blade & sight it in for the
selected load.

The point of the original title of the thread is it seems to me
the .45 Auto RIm is as strong and essentially stronger at the base
in comparison to .45 ACP but AR is rated at 14000 - 16000
PSI and the ACP is 21000 PSI and +P 23000 PSI per
SAAMI spec yet they are fired in the same S&W N Frames.

Seems load data for AR should be taken with a grain of salt with regards to
the SAAMI pressures. IMHO

Randall
 
I use both .45 AR and ACP in my S&W 1917, but the AR very rarely...no real need for it. I load both the same, but the ACP on moonclips is just so much easier. I use plastic Rim-Z moonclips and don't know why anyone would ever use the steel ones.
 
don't know why anyone would ever use the steel ones
So the ammo don't all fall out in your pocket, or on the ground?

Rimz are great for range use, but if dependability & hard use are in the cards, you better go with steel clips.

rc
 
I've loaded my 4" S&W 625, using Starline 45ar brass, with a 255 gr LSWC up to 1100 fps.

I find I prefer that bullet at 900 fps. It's a wonderful approximate replicant of the original .45 ('long') Colt load, with an improved bullet (LSWC over RNFP)
 
Maybe in a new S&W but no way I'm shooting +p rated Buffalo Bore loads in my 1917 Colt. I've loaded some hot-ish gas checked wadcutters (like a 200gr bullet at 1000 fps) but after a few hundred rounds of those I just decided the old Colt was better served shooting factory ball ammo or light loads.

I know the old RCBS books had some heap big 250 gr loads for 45 Auto Rim listed if I recall at 900 fps or so.
 
The EDM bore process shouldn't have anything to do with bore leading. If the boolit is properly sized for the barrel it should be fine.

The EDM doesn't cause leading but it prevents leading from being thoroughly removed. All the tiny little grooves inside the grooves prevent lead from being removed by any means I am familiar with. The only thing I have not tried are the chemical removers, as most of my "Classics" are nickel and I am afraid of damaging it.
 
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