A few noobie 1911 questions...

[joey93turbo]

I know someday I will own a 1911, and that day is more than likely coming up soon. As I'm shopping around and looking for "the one" or maybe "the ones" I want, I'm asking a few questions I know are simple but I can't seem to find the answers for.

1) What are the different "levels" of 1911's?

By levels I mean I see mil-spec, GI, Loaded, etc. and I'm wondering what the differences between these are. Are these mostly just Springfield designations? When I'm shopping around I'd like to be able to say "these features are why this gun is more expensive than this one".

2) How big of difference do MIM parts make and how?

Alot of people have me scared to buy a Springfield cause of the MIM parts. It's because of these I continue to look hard at the Sig Revolution, which seems to be an outstanding value for the money.

3) What are the differences between a commander length and full size when it comes to accuracy and ease of carrying?

Everyone wants an accurate gun. I've pretty much come to the (incorrect?)resolution that in my price range (around $800, hopefully much less) I'm not going to get a tack driver reliable enough to carry. Because of this I'm wondering if going with the shorter barrel of the commander length wouldn't be a better choice since it might be easier to conceal and lighter to carry. I have a gut feeling I'm off-base with my thinking here, so please correct me if I'm wrong. I've heard the commander size 1911's are reliable but it's best to not get much shorter than that.

4) Why do most people dislike double stack 1911's? How much wider are they?

I was looking at a couple double stack 1911's recently but I've read alot of places they're unreliable, is that true? I would be in heaven with 13+ rounds of .45 ACP but maybe it'd be too much weight to carry all day? I probably just need a better belt. How much wider are they than single stack 1911's? are they much more difficult to conceal than a normal 1911 or say, a Sig P220?



I think that's all the questions I have for now but I'm sure there will be many more. I appreciate your responses

 

[1911 guy]

I'll take a stab at answers.

1) All the model differentiations you mentioned are Springfields designations. Some come with different sights, finishes, extended controls (safety/slide stop) grips, grip safeties, etc. The options are numerous among all the manufacturers and each maker uses different terms.

2) MIM parts are here to stay. Not really a good thing, but not as horrible as some make it out to be. I think the jury is still out on the durability of MIM parts for two reasons. First, the parts in question are relatively low stress (even the hammer strut) and secondly because most of us who don't like them replace them shortly after we buy the pistols.

3) Barrel length doesn't really affect handgun accuracy that much for the average Joe. We mainly use our pistols for personal defense and paper punching, so the shorter sight radius is more of an issue than the barrel itself. As for ease of carrying, the butt of a pistol is the part that will concern you when it comes time to carry one. The real biggie with barrel length is reliability. Some shooters have a hard time with the short barrels (3 in and less) under less than ideal conditions, which is when you need your pistol the most. It has to do with the cycling of the slide and barrel unlocking. The short 1911's aren't just cut off, things must be altered on the inside to make it function and sometimes it's done not overly well, sometimes to perfection. Expect to pay more for a good 3" than a good 5".

4) As for double stack 1911's, most of us don't like them because we like 1911's. That means a slim and concealable grip. I don't know about them being unreliable as a rule, but they are definately thicker by almost half and much heavier when loaded.

 

[JoeHatley]

I've pretty much come to the (incorrect?)resolution that in my price range (around $800, hopefully much less) I'm not going to get a tack driver reliable enough to carry.

Accuracy doesn't have to be expensive. Just spend your money wisely.



Street price on a SW1911 is still around $650 --> $700 depending on configuration.

Good Luck...

Joe