Anybody here familiar with the early Stevens Favorite rolling block rifles

[forward observer]

I picked up a pretty little 1894 Steven Favorite takedown single shot in .22 Long Rifle. The barrel had been refinished and relined, so it should shoot accurately. However, the lever seems a bit sloppy. This particular model was superseded by the model 1915, so it could be anywhere from 106 to 126 years old. Stevens used an odd serial number system and it appears that no records have survived to assign actual dates.

I can probably fix the side to side slop with a brass shim washer. However, in addition, when the hammer is at full cock it allows the lever and breech block to simply fall open unless one holds it in place. After taking it apart and looking at the only exploded diagram I could find on the net, I can't
figure out what should hold the lever in place or if that is just how the gun works. There appears to be no detent spring nor anything to keep the lever in the up position other than when the hammer is down against the block.

Maybe it's just a feature of the rifle that requires one to have a firm grip on the lever/trigger guard when they cock the hammer to shoot.

Anyone who knows about these little gems is welcome to chime in.

Oh, and here's a quick picture before somebody asks


Cheers

 

[GunnyUSMC]

The side to side play is common but the lever should stay in place, on it’s own, when closed.
You have four basic positions.
Fully open, lever down and all the way forward, this ejects your cartridge.


The next position is basically like a wall, or stop. As the lever moves to the rear it has a wall kind of like pulling a trigger on a handgun. This will lift the loading block about halfway up.


By adding pressure upward on the lever it will go pass what feels like a hump. This will completely lift the loading block, closing off the chamber.


There’s another notch that locks the lever in the up position.


The pressure on the lever, if I remember right, are from the parts of the action and the hammer spring.
I may have an old book with an exploded diagram, I’ll look for it..

 

[tark]

Well, you seem to know quite a bit about your rifle already. And, from your description, I would guess that your gun is thoroughly worn out. That lever should not be doing what you describe. It should hold itself in place when closed. What do the fired cases look like? Any bulging near the rim? Do they extract easily? You mentioned that the barrel had been re-lined, but if the action is loose there will be headspace problems. In his classic book "Single Shot Rifles," Frank deHass describes your problem, details what causes it, and describes how to fix it......but the fix involves gunsmithing skills.

If you fix these issues, stay away from high velocity ammo. Your gun was not designed for it, and it may be the reason your rifle is loose. Also, that takedown system is best never used. It is not a weak system ( OK actually it is ) but it will get loosey-goosey if you break the gun down too often. Screw it up nice and snug and leave it alone.

These little gems sold for a few bucks back in the day. Their main competition was the Remington #4 rolling block. These two were considered the Cadillac's of the "Boys rifles."

 

[whm1974]

So what is it like to shoot rolling block rifles in whatever caliber?

 

[tark]

Here is a diagram of your rifle. As you can see, the action consists of many pins, pivots and links, all of which must line up. It is not a strong system. The pins would wear the holes in the links egg shaped, with prolonged use and that led to play in the action and increased headspace. Once things got too sloppy, the lever will no longer hold itself closed.

 

[tark]

So what is it like to shoot rolling block rifles in whatever caliber?

Uhhhh, it's a lot of fun, like shooting any other gun! The action is stupid simple and easy to use. They did have limitations on cartridge length and size. The round has to be small enough to squeeze past the cocked hammer. They were never chambered in the longer .50 caliber rounds, like the 50-90 and the 50-140 3 1/2 " Although Custer had one in 50-70. It was one of his favorite hunting rifles.

 

[tark]

The extractor plunger spring is probably worn out or broken on your rifle. It is what holds the lever closed. Does your extractor snap back vigorously when you open the breech? Is there any wiggle in the extractor with the breech lever fully open? If there is, the extractor spring is broken. Fortunately, that is a very easy fix. Unfortunately looseness in the action isn't.

Good luck, forward observer, with your little gem. It is well worth spending a little time and money on.

 

[forward observer]

The side to side play is common but the lever should stay in place, on it’s own, when closed.
You have four basic positions.
Fully open, lever down and all the way forward, this ejects your cartridge.
View attachment 925298

The next position is basically like a wall, or stop. As the lever moves to the rear it has a wall kind of like pulling a trigger on a handgun. This will lift the loading block about halfway up.
View attachment 925299

By adding pressure upward on the lever it will go pass what feels like a hump. This will completely lift the loading block, closing off the chamber.
View attachment 925300

There’s another notch that locks the lever in the up position.
View attachment 925302

The pressure on the lever, if I remember right, are from the parts of the action and the hammer spring.
I may have an old book with an exploded diagram, I’ll look for it..

Gunny, is yours a model 1915 or the earlier model 1894. I think the knurled takedown knob on yours may indicate that it is the latter. If so, it has a totally different hammer spring system than the model 1894. They went from a flat spring to a coil spring with a long pivoting guide rod.

I've learned that there is a lot of crossover between the models and that Stevens was constantly updating minor internal features during the life of a particular model---so much so that some parts are not even compatible within the same model series. For example, the diagram that Tark posted is only one of four different versions of the model 94. It has the1st version extractor with an internal plunger. The other 3 versions have no internal plunger and will not work in that particular configuration. In other words, these little rifles are both simple and confusing as hell at the same time. That diagram does seem to duplicate the version of the1894 that I have though

I just picked this up from my FFL yesterday, but when I got it the lever would fall slightly out of the closed position--even with the hammer down. When I removed the stock from the tang, I realized that the flat hammer spring was not tightened down fully to the bottom tang. After tightening that up the lever tended to stay in the closed position until I put it in half-cock either manually or by working the lever. At that point, it would hang down about a half-inch gap from the bottom of the receiver. However, when I take the hammer to full cock the lever just drops, opening the action.

Looking at the diagram posted by Tark it appears that once the hammer is at full cock, it would seem to not even come in contact with either the lever, the link, or the breech block. The only three forms of spring pressure of any kind that I can ascertain is the hammer spring, the trigger return spring and the extractor plunger spring. The trigger spring would have no effect on anything other than the trigger. The only other source of spring pressure would be the plunger spring in the front of the extractor. Maybe that's defective although the extractor seems to function correctly.

Here is a diagram of your rifle. As you can see, the action consists of many pins, pivots and links, all of which must line up. It is not a strong system. The pins would wear the holes in the links egg shaped, with prolonged use and that led to play in the action and increased headspace. Once things got too sloppy, the lever will no longer hold itself closed.

I haven't taken the hammer or the trigger out yet but I did remove the lever and the breech block which are connected by the link with a protrusion which is what forces the hammer to half-cock when one lowers the lever. None of the holes are elongated and the link pins are in tight enough that I would have to use a punch to get them out. In other words, those three pieces appear to interact with no apparent play when outside the receiver.

The only apparent play is a little side to side play with the lever and the inner sides of the receiver, which might be normal for a rifle this old.

While I haven't shot any regular 22 cartridges in gun yet, I did test some 22. cal starter pistol blanks in it. They all fired as they should, but then of course I had to hold the lever up by hand to do so.

It's got to be something I'm overlooking, but I'll figure it out eventually.

I looked up that single shot book by Mr. De Haas that you mentioned. Being published in 1969, it's long out of print and the cheapest used copy I could find on was $90 on Amazon. I found one on eBay but it was double that amount. I consider myself a pretty decent amateur gunsmith but after I retired and downsized I sold off most of my machine tools. However, I can still fabricate a lot of stuff with just a file and a bench grinder, Unfortunately, that book is almost a 3rd of what I paid for the rifle. so I'll have to think about it.

Thanks, gents.

P.S. I see I was composing while Tark was posting what may be the answer. The extractor is a bit worn but it seems to function OK. The plunger also still has a spring action to it, but then I can't see what's going on inside the receiver. I found a website that sells that exact part. Of course at $48, it's not cheap but if it makes the thing work
it'll be worth it. I guess I need to pull the original extractor again and inspect it a bit closer.

Thanks

 

[whm1974]

Uhhhh, it's a lot of fun, like shooting any other gun! The action is stupid simple and easy to use. They did have limitations on cartridge length and size. The round has to be small enough to squeeze past the cocked hammer. They were never chambered in the longer .50 caliber rounds, like the 50-90 and the 50-140 3 1/2 " Although Custer had one in 50-70. It was one of his favorite hunting rifles.

How strong are the actions? I am under the impression that Rolling Block Actions are strong and able to handle powerful cartridges, but I will amint to not actually not knowing anything about them.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Mine is a Model 1915.
Check with Outback Gun Parts to see if they have the parts you need.
(812) 945-0480

 

[Iggy]

I have one given to me by my Great Aunt when I was seven back in 1947. Her husband bought it new for $3.50. I learned to shoot with it and shot enough Jack Rabbits with it at $.50 apiece to buy a nylon 66. I gave the 66 to my son, but I still have the Favorite and shot a rabbit in my wife's flower garden with it 2 days ago.. It's over a 100 years old and still puts them where I point it.

 

[tark]

How strong are the actions? I am under the impression that Rolling Block Actions are strong and able to handle powerful cartridges, but I will amint to not actually not knowing anything about them.

They are very strong, but we should stick to the original subject of this thread. Start a new thread asking about rolling blocks and I can tell you about my experiences with them.

 

[tark]

forward observer, shoot me a PM and I can help you out with the book by Mr. deHaas.

 

[Gordon]

I have had a few in my life, the remaining one is a 1915 Favorite that was converted from .32 Long rim fire to .32 S&W Long centerfire by a long since passed gunsmith in Montana in the early 1980s . He had to replace the trigger which he made out of modern gunsteel and hardened along with the breech block and firing pin . The guns are uber kewl and indeed the first real gun I fired at 6 YO was a very worn one . I believe the Favorite is a falling block. It certainly shares no characteristics of the strong Remington rolling block. I'll get a picture of my .32S&W Favorite up here today it has tang sights and in the 80s I used it to harvest bull frogs from ranch ponds that were full of them. I also have a Stevens Lil Scout Boys rifle which IS a rolling block, of sorts. I have a Stevens "Lil Maynard" around too. It is .22 short and a boys rifle I trained my children on at first It has a downward tipping barrel on the civil war era Maynard system They are all so cute and nostalgic.

 

[Gordon]

View attachment 925467

 

[Gordon]

The little scout is actually model # 14 1/2 and is a Savage , right down to the indian head steel butt plate ! It is a rolling block action , not as strong a design as say the #4 Remington and very close to the Simpler Remington #6 action. A rolling block action has a solid bottom receiver. The falling block , as on my 1915 Model Favorite , has an open bottomed action where a lever pulls down the breech block by some means.

 

[forward observer]

I guess I'm partially to blame for the confusion by accidentally referring to the Stevens favorite as a Rolling block. I've seen it described as more related to the Martini-Henry style of action and I see the term "pivoting block" used since the action appears to drop when it's really just pivoting back and down on a single screw rather than dropping straight down like say--the Sharps action does.

I also found out today after talking to one of the parts suppliers on my list that there were a total of 10 types of receivers used over the life of the model 94 and that at some point the spring-operated plunger pin on the extractor was moved to the operating lever to correct the problem of a drooping lever. Then for some unexplained reason, it was moved back to the extractor. As I said before--both simple but confusing.

Tark generously supplied me with information from his book, so I'm going to order a few newly made replacement parts for the old worn ones to see it that corrects the issue. Most sellers of replacement parts only sell old stuff culled from junked guns while I found a seller on the west coast that appears to only sell parts made to spec in their own machine shop. If worn parts are causing my issue then it makes no sense to me to spend money to replace them with other old possibly worn parts. A bonus is that the newly made parts are much less expensive than the old worn stuff.

I'm all for originality in a vintage gun, but in this case--if it can't be seen and it makes the thing works as it should--so be it.

Cheers

 

[Gordon]

Like I said about my .32 S&W Favorite, Dale Story (Casper Wyo. , NOT Montana as I stated and he may be still alive )replaced the worn and rimfire parts with ones he fabricated. Its very hard to tell that ! And after 35 years, they still work as new ! Enjoy. You are lucky your Favorite Barrel was relined !

 

[alsaqr]

The Stevens Favorite is a very nice rifle. The action is also a weak one. Fed a steady diet of long rifle high velocity ammunition the breech block bolt is likely to break. Way back when that happened with two of my rifles. Nowadays i use the subsonic ammunition.

 

[Ole Joe Clark]

Looked at one yesterday at the local pawn/gun shop. He actually had 2 or 3. One was the reissue version. Nice little .22.

Have a blessed day,

Leon