AR15 lube

[readyeddy]

At first I used CLP on my AR for everything. I used it to clean, lubricate, and protect against rust. Then I read a bunch of internet stuff that said CLP was fair at cleaning and lubricating but not the best choice.

So now I use Butch' s Bore Shine to remove copper and carbon from the barrel and I use Mobile 1 in the BCG. I use an industrial syringe to inject motor oil into the gas ports and after the first shot the oil is evenly spread into every space in the action. After a couple dozen shots the oil mixes with the carbon and turns into mud and sticks where its needed .

I don't write for Popular Mechanics so I can't tell you if motor oil is the best choice. All I can say is that it seems to be working for me. The action is slick and cleaning the BCG only requires wiping with a rag.

I still use CLP to protect against rust on the outside of my guns.

 

[benEzra]

What do you use and why?

Mobil 1 EP 5W30. Because it's an excellent full synthetic PAO based oil with excellent physical properties (as good as the very best gun oils), and it's inexpensive. I also use it in my car.

Does the lube that is used actually help to reduce the carbon build up and "welding on" of carbon to the working parts?

Yes, if you lubricate it generously. Cleaning the receiver of my AR after several hundred rounds of Wolf consists of (1) wiping off the old oil with dissolved carbon, and (2) re-oiling.

 

[benEzra]

Any of you motor oil gun lubers take that into consideration? Not nitpicking, just wondering.

Yes. The culprit is the EPA-driven CJ-4/SM standard, which reduces allowable ZDDP somewhat (it's still there, just down to 800ish ppm zinc and phosphorus instead of 1200 ppm), with some boron compounds added instead.

That sword cuts both ways, though, because while I know that SM-spec synthetic motor oils have 800 ppm zinc and phosphorus, the amount in gun oil X might be zero. I have never seen a gun oil list a ZDDP content or compliance with any ZDDP related spec at all. So at least with a high quality synthetic motor oil, you are getting as much ZDDP as the oil is spec'd for, whereas in a gun oil you may be getting none at all.

I have been kicking around the idea of switching my car from M1 EP to a higher ZDDP formulation (e.g. I believe 5W-40 is exempt from the lower ZDDP spec, as are high performance oils) and if I do switch, I'll use the new synthetic in the AR as well. Till then, I'll keep running M1 EP in both.

 

[Ironicaintit]

Ben,
Fair enough. Im sure motor oil is plenty good to keep our guns runnin', as people have been doing it for years with no ill effects.
Once im out of Breakree (its going to be a while) I'll use the oil/atf and not worry about it

 

[JamieC]

I'm an Amsoil guy, keep a plastic squeeze bottle of 15w-50 around. Some moly lube on/around the cam pin. Keep it on the wet side, never need to do much scraping, everything stays wet/gooey, cleans off real easy. WD40, tooth brush, compressed air for cleaning.

 

[Tirod]

Hadn't considered the zinc issue - and it would be helpful on locking lugs and the cam pin channel, both of which are subjected to a lot of heat and load.

As for greasing the gas rings, not so much, read the TM. The heaviest amount of lube goes to the cam pin channel. Overloading the rings only captures more residue and cakes them up. The gas residue is expelled out the ports on the BCG, no reason to go overboard on it. AR's don't run oil rings like cars do - which scrape off the excess to run the bore as nearly dry as possible. Same for the AR.

IIRC we always had to shake up CLP to resuspend the Teflon in the solution - AKA Slick 50. And reading thru the MSDS I note barium as one ingredient, same as motor oil. Metal sliding surfaces are similar, and similar lubricants do the same job.

I use Dexron on my guns, high detergent and plenty of lubrication as transmissions go 50,000 mile intervals without service. They have to suspend what contaminants get in it, entirely why when they go dark it's time to change them.

Since most of the lube is slung off or dried out in self loading action, motor oils are the better answer. On a bolt or lever action not so much - nobody cycles the chamber open with residual pressure still in the barrel. So, the biggest factor in the apparent difference of opinion goes to that - self loading actions get different lube, same as Otto cycle engines get different lubricants than bicycles.

One factor I think needs more research is the smell - and it's affect on game animals. I'm beginning to think peanut oil might be the better lube in hunting season.

 

[misterarman]

All Temp Tactical Lube.
Not an expert but have been shooting ARs since 1978. Was turned on to this stuff by a friend who is more of an expert than I am. Firearms instructor for a local PD.
Best stuff I have ever used.
Synthectic blend. Bonds with the metal blah blah blah.
Runs longer, stays cleaner and is easier to clean.
Not cheap but a little goes a long way.

 

[PowerG]

If you want high levels of ZDDP (and it's not a bad idea, Google the reason the zinc additives are put in there) try Mobil1 10w-50 V-Twin motorcycle oil, it's available at just about any AutoZone for roughly $10 a quart. A quart lasts a long time.

 

[chicharrones]

Any of you motor oil gun lubers take that into consideration? Not nitpicking, just wondering.

I don't think about zinc in oil at all. I never have in 35 years of doing my own oil changes or in 25 years in use in firearms. Honestly, I didn't know it was important.

Flat tappet camshaft. What's the closest to that in an AR? The bolt carrier sliding over the hammer to cock it or the cam pin in the bolt and cam pin slot?

 

[tcoz]

I have settled on ballistol been working just fine I really feel the whole lube thing is overrated just think how long firearms have been around working reliable how many wars in all environments with out the new best and newest snake oil it's just fun oil keep it clean and oiled it will work

^^^^^This, but I use grease (Mobil 1 Synthetic) on my BCG.

 

[benEzra]

Flat tappet camshaft. What's the closest to that in an AR? The bolt carrier sliding over the hammer to cock it or the cam pin in the bolt and cam pin slot?

Those, plus the locking lugs of the bolt. You also have metal to metal sliding between the charging handle (especially the little tabs at the forward end) and the receiver, the bolt carrier group against the bearing surfaces of the receiver, piston rings sliding inside the bore of the bolt carrier, etc.

 

[MistWolf]

I'm not saying MistWolf is wrong, but I've seen just as many guides/videos that specifically say not to do this as there are guides/videos that say to do this. Some say you only need to lube the bearing surfaces of the carrier i.e. the 4 flat rails, while others get much more complicated. I'm sure that you could pretty much get away with a lot of techniques and still have a gun that functions fine, but I'm looking at long term wear resistance. So who should I be listening to? Can anyone point the way? BTW I'm using froglube at the moment cuz I have a tub of it already.

I did not say "Do not lube carrier". I said the most important part to lube is the bolt where it rides in the carrier. This can be easily accomplished by placing a few drops in the exhaust port. The clearances between the carrier and the upper are very generous and the carrier mostly floats as it moves back and forth.

When an AR starts short stroking due to being dry and/or fouled, oiling the bearing surface does little help. But placing a couple of drops in the carrier exhaust ports and nowhere else, will get it up & running again

As for greasing the gas rings, not so much, read the TM. The heaviest amount of lube goes to the cam pin channel. Overloading the rings only captures more residue and cakes them up. The gas residue is expelled out the ports on the BCG, no reason to go overboard on it

The AR is designed to use oil, not grease.

Oiling through the cam pin track oils the same part of the bolt as oiling through the exhaust port does

Oil on the rings doesn't cake them up. In fact, the lube make wiping the rings clean easier

AR's don't run oil rings like cars do - which scrape off the excess to run the bore as nearly dry as possible. Same for the AR

I think a typo was made here, confusing your meaning. Could you please clarify?

 

[Rubber_Duck]

I have tried almost everything and my favorite is synthetic ATF. Even the most elite, top-of-the-line automatic transmission fluid can be bought for $8 for a quart, and a quart can last somebody years.