I'm 6 ft 1 in. tall and have yo-yo'd between 210 and 250 pounds for the past eight years. Pants waist size has been from 36 to 42. The most common weight in the period is in the 215-220 pound range and 38 size waist.
That being said, here's my expereinces:
Glock 30 in ThunderWear works fine with a spare mag, no printing SO LONG as the pants or shorts have PLEATS. No pleats, it looks like a brick in your crotch.
Other guns carried in ThunderWear successfully were Taurus 617 and 2 speed strips, Commander with spare mag, Kahr K-9 and spare mag, and 3" Model 66 with J-frame 2" on other side. Please note to be careful how you sit with this holster on,... you can clink, and you ain't Goldmember. Oh, and using urinals is a bit of a trick with this one on.
As far as pants go, for IWB usage, go for pants one waist size larger ... by this I mean if you normally wear 38s, then buy 40s. The real estate you gain inside is well worth the price.
If I'm carrying a wheelgun I prefer the style of IWB that has either loops, straps, or screws NOT over the cylinder of the reveolver, where it is bulkiest. The VM-2 or Tucker's Texas Heritage are ideal setups for concelaing fighting wheelguns. The distance between the J-hooks or loops helps pull the gun into your body and "melt" it better than the single hook, loop, or clip found midsection.
For autos, the placement of loops or J-hooks is less important due to their flatter profile. My Glock and Colts, and Kahrs were easily concealable either IWB or OWB with a solidly made holster and a GOOD GUNBELT.
Appendix carry has worked very well when I have had less of a belly. The Commander and 3" Model 66 were about as long as I'd want to push that carry method. Appendix works better than behind the point of the hip for long periods at a desk or driving. At least it did for me. Note to self, never try appendix carry with that 6" N-frame again and sit down... OUCH.
I've tried crossdraw and found some times when it makes a lot of sense. The first is when seated at a desk or driving for many hours. The gun is very easily accessible and in both of those cases, you are unlikely to have someone try and grab your piece without some obstacle in the way, i.e. desk, or car door or window. The other time when crossdraw makes a helluva good sense is the cold of winter. I have found it much easier to whip up the front of a zipped jacket bunched in one hand and draw the piece, than have to do a song and dance to yank out a 4:00 positioned IWB piece. This is especially true when you are in very cold weather and have multiple, bulky layers on.
The gunbelt is the key to really hiding any substantial handgun on your midships. I have never found a reliable belt in any department store, or other retail outlet. They all lack the lateral stability to keep the holster and gun from bowing out. As you pack on more pounds, this tendency to displace the butt of the weapon gets more prominent. The $60 to $100 you'll spend on a quality belt will come out to less than $10 a year, as they last for over a decade, if properly cared for. Ideally, you'll want a double ply belt for anything over about 24 oz. that you plan on carrying all day. If you insist on trying to get a store-bought belt to do the work, apply the "pinch test." Take the belt between your thumb and first two fingers on the top and bottom of the belt. Squeeze it and try to bend the leather. If you can bend the leather, odds are pretty darn good that the belt lacks the "spine" (lateral stability) to hold the wight of the gun and mag pouches, etc. all day long.
Ankle holsters are something I've never warmed up to at all. The small of the back holsters scare me too much (spine damage, etc.). Shoulder holsters are better suited to cooler climates where you can get away with concealing garments more year-round. The other benefit of a shoulder rig is the lack of finding a parking place for the chunk of metal when you gotta drop trou in a hurry because the Mexican or Thai food is kicking in.
Sorry for the ramblings, hope you find something useful in it.
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