Case lube and Bullet retention - 357Sig

[renaissance]

Dilema:

I am getting ready to load .357 Sig for the first time.
Seems that this cartidge is more complicated than most.

I currently reload .38 / 357(M) / 9 / 40 / 45acp / 45 Colt.
Use a auto indexing progressive (RCBS) Piggyback III
I use Carbide Dies and never experienced a need to case lube.

.357 Sig appears to be different.

A big problem; (so I read) is bullet retention due to the very short bearing surface for resisting bullet pull (in OR out) due to the .357Sig's short bottleneck and minimum bullet to case contact surface.
Flaring and Crimp need to be minimized because the .357 Sig headspaces on the case mouth.
( I know some say it is the shoulder, and some say both - but in any case it is a factor)

Only Dillon ($$$) seems to make carbide dies.
(Even so, they say you need to lube some > so why spend the $)

Given all that, it seems I need to case lube before sizing............

SO:
I am advised that I have to lube the cases before sizing.
BUT:
Need to avoid getting lube on the bullet when I set it onto the charged case; making the marginal bullet retention even more tenuous.

How do I do this using a progressive technique ????

I'm not going to "wash" my hands between case insertion onto the progressive shell plate, and seating the bullet after dropping the powder.

Do I have to size separately, clean the case lube off, and then load the case "pre Sized" onto the plate?

(That kind of defeats the advantage of a progressive press.)

What's a guy to do ??

1) Am I being over cautious about case lube on the bullet?
2) Is the bullet retention danger in 357 Sig over-emphasized?
3) Is the need to case lube (357Sig) in Steel Dies overstated?
4) Have I gone over my head (hassle tolerance wise) with 357Sig?


renaissance needs to know

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[MoNsTeR]

Here's what I would try.
Get a set of Lee dies, and a can of Hornady One-Shot. One-Shot doesn't react with powder or primers, so it doesn't need to be removed after sizing. However, it might inhibit good case neck tension. So try loading a few dummy rounds, and check the tension by pushing them against your bench, and repeatedly chambering them to see if they shorten. If they don't shorten I'd say you're good to go. And while you're at it use that One-Shot with all your other calibers, you'll wonder how you got along without it!

Unless the Lee dies work absolutely perfectly, I would probably get the Dillon dies anyway, even though it's $110 you'll only have to pay it once. Maybe someone who owns one of their bottleneck carbide die sets can weigh in with their experience...

 

[critter]

Hummmm. I have a Para Ord P-16 (.40 S&W) to which I have recently fitted an Ed Brown .357 SIG barrel. I have not reloaded for it BECAUSE I find that even FACTORY ammo tends to shorten when chambered. If you load a round, and later eject it and reload it again, it is shortened considerably.

Now, the gun with the EB barrel is very accurate and since the barrel is ramped and well supported, I have had no problems with the shortened rounds, BUT---it does show the tendancy you mention. With the short case neck to hold the bullet, there is ALREADY a marginal bullet tension situation. ANYTHING that MIGHT make it worse is a definite NO-NO!

Good luck with your reloading and have fun. Just be aware that this round has a neck tension problem if not treated CAREFULLY.

 

[Dave P]

The way I remember it: use AA#9 because it will fill the case, preventing bullet setback.