ivankerley
Member
wow thats stunning! beautiful revolver, definitely an excellent piece to hand down
Congrats
Gene
Cimmaron .45 Schofield Break Top replica, or something else for an inheritance
- Thread starter Zaydok Allen
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Congrats
Gene
Kernel
Member
the patent date on the grip. June 5th, 1917 happens to be the day my grandfather was born.
That's too cool. Synchronicity.
OldBrownDog
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Kodiak, that's a darn nice revolver and a great way to remember your grandfather. I'm still gonna put together a write-up on the new Winchester '73 though - you're gonna need a carbine to go with it!
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Zaydok Allen
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Absolutely! The 73 is still on my short list of guns to pick up.
I do have a question for you gents out there. This is actually my first blued gun. All the other guns I own are stainless, and of new production. Normally I clean all my guns with Hoppe's #9 and oil them with the Hoppe's #9 gun oil. I've never used another product, since Hoppe's workes great. Is there any reason to use a different oil on this older gun? I would think not, but though I'd ask.
Also, the wood grips........ Is there an oil I should apply to them at all, or is it a "Don't fix it if it ain broke" kind of thing. I'm guessing I better take the grips off in order to clean and lube the gun. No sense in expossing old wood, with an old finish to a bunch of new chemicals. This gun will likely be shot once a year or so, on my grandpa's birthday, and kept under glass the rest of the time. I also plan to use snap caps if dry firing it. I normally don't worry about that, but I know it is suggested on older guns, and many people think they should be used on all guns, regardless of what the owner's manuals say.
Maybe I should start a new thread for these questions, hey? I suspect the title of this thread is keeping some folks from reading it, who may be knowledgeable in this area.
I do have a question for you gents out there. This is actually my first blued gun. All the other guns I own are stainless, and of new production. Normally I clean all my guns with Hoppe's #9 and oil them with the Hoppe's #9 gun oil. I've never used another product, since Hoppe's workes great. Is there any reason to use a different oil on this older gun? I would think not, but though I'd ask.
Also, the wood grips........ Is there an oil I should apply to them at all, or is it a "Don't fix it if it ain broke" kind of thing. I'm guessing I better take the grips off in order to clean and lube the gun. No sense in expossing old wood, with an old finish to a bunch of new chemicals. This gun will likely be shot once a year or so, on my grandpa's birthday, and kept under glass the rest of the time. I also plan to use snap caps if dry firing it. I normally don't worry about that, but I know it is suggested on older guns, and many people think they should be used on all guns, regardless of what the owner's manuals say.
Maybe I should start a new thread for these questions, hey? I suspect the title of this thread is keeping some folks from reading it, who may be knowledgeable in this area.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Howdy Again
I have been using Hoppe's #9 on all my guns since I was a kid, and I suspect I am quite a bit older than you. It works just fine on blued guns. You can take the grips off to clean the gun if you want, but Hoppe's #9 will not hurt them. If the grips look good, just leave them alone, no need to mess with them. They were coated with a very light coat of varnish when they left the factory.
Yes, absolutely use snap caps if you are going to dry fire it. If the tip breaks off of the firing pin you are going to have a hard time replacing it. Frankly, I never dry fire my guns. Well, hardly hardly ever. It just is not very good for them. As pristine as that gun looks, the more you work the action, the more you will be starting to generate a ring around the cylinder. That is the nature of double action S&W revolvers.
I'm not saying don't take it out and fondle it, and work the action a little bit, and shoot it a little bit. It is your gun. But the more you work the action, the more it will start to show.
Oops, just took another look at the photos. There is already a pronounced ring around the cylinder. So don't worry about that, work the action all you like. But be sure to use snap caps if you are going to dry fire it. I just checked and Midway USA has AZoom 32 S&W snap caps in stock.
By the way, you are not going to find 32 S&W Long ammo growing on trees. You can also fire 32 S&W in that revolver, and I'm pretty sure you can fire 32 Short Colt and 32 New Police in it too.
I have been using Hoppe's #9 on all my guns since I was a kid, and I suspect I am quite a bit older than you. It works just fine on blued guns. You can take the grips off to clean the gun if you want, but Hoppe's #9 will not hurt them. If the grips look good, just leave them alone, no need to mess with them. They were coated with a very light coat of varnish when they left the factory.
Yes, absolutely use snap caps if you are going to dry fire it. If the tip breaks off of the firing pin you are going to have a hard time replacing it. Frankly, I never dry fire my guns. Well, hardly hardly ever. It just is not very good for them. As pristine as that gun looks, the more you work the action, the more you will be starting to generate a ring around the cylinder. That is the nature of double action S&W revolvers.
I'm not saying don't take it out and fondle it, and work the action a little bit, and shoot it a little bit. It is your gun. But the more you work the action, the more it will start to show.
Oops, just took another look at the photos. There is already a pronounced ring around the cylinder. So don't worry about that, work the action all you like. But be sure to use snap caps if you are going to dry fire it. I just checked and Midway USA has AZoom 32 S&W snap caps in stock.
By the way, you are not going to find 32 S&W Long ammo growing on trees. You can also fire 32 S&W in that revolver, and I'm pretty sure you can fire 32 Short Colt and 32 New Police in it too.
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Zaydok Allen
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Yep, it does have a turn ring, so I figure shooting it a little here and there won't be a big problem. I will likely only put 50 rounds through it in one session, if that. I do want to keep it in good shape. It will be an heirloom, but a fired gun is a loved gun in my mind.
Good info on the grips and finish. Hoppe's it is. I need to ask the seller if the side plate has ever been removed and the internals cleaned. I don't know that I'd want to do it myself for fear of losing a spring or something. I would like to make sure it is oiled up though.
You are right about the ammo. I researched it a bit before buying. I have found some decent prices online, so when I do buy some next month, I'll probably buy a lot of it, so it lasts. I'm planning to stick to light target loads. I saw that Buffalo Bore makes 32 S&W Long, but I don't think I want to fire hot loaded stuff from this gun, since preserving it is important to me.
Good info on the grips and finish. Hoppe's it is. I need to ask the seller if the side plate has ever been removed and the internals cleaned. I don't know that I'd want to do it myself for fear of losing a spring or something. I would like to make sure it is oiled up though.
You are right about the ammo. I researched it a bit before buying. I have found some decent prices online, so when I do buy some next month, I'll probably buy a lot of it, so it lasts. I'm planning to stick to light target loads. I saw that Buffalo Bore makes 32 S&W Long, but I don't think I want to fire hot loaded stuff from this gun, since preserving it is important to me.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Howdy Once Again
Taking a S&W apart is not as difficult as you might think, although the first time it can be a little bit scary. This is the very best book there is on the subject. It will take you through everything you need to know to disassemble a Smith, diagnose problems, replace parts, and do some smithing if necessary. Yes, it can be scary the first time you remove the side plate, but it gets less scary the more times you do it.
Hint: Never try to pry off the side plate, follow the instructions in the book.
http://www.gunbooks.com/sw.html
You can also find this book at Amazon and several other places. I highly recommend it if you are going to get at all serious about collecting Smiths.
Taking a S&W apart is not as difficult as you might think, although the first time it can be a little bit scary. This is the very best book there is on the subject. It will take you through everything you need to know to disassemble a Smith, diagnose problems, replace parts, and do some smithing if necessary. Yes, it can be scary the first time you remove the side plate, but it gets less scary the more times you do it.
Hint: Never try to pry off the side plate, follow the instructions in the book.
http://www.gunbooks.com/sw.html
You can also find this book at Amazon and several other places. I highly recommend it if you are going to get at all serious about collecting Smiths.
Arkansas Paul
Member
It certainly does not get any better than that friend. That's awesome!
Now take that thing out and get to shooting.
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