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Cool gun photos

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This is all I got.

This was a picture I took of my leg after getting a tattoo.....

I then removed the color and applied red to the AK furniture using the soft-light feature in PhotoShop.

Added the text......

legandriflebarrelcopy.gif
 
You should specify unique or extraordinary pics if thats what you want. Otherwise, they'll start to get pretty run of the mill, nothing different than looking through pages of a google image search.

Anyway, heres a halo of fire from the muzzle of a deagle, from a screencap of a youtube vid:

25fb25de1414.jpg
 
As suggested, I will specify that the photos should be interesting and not run of the mill photos. They should make the viewer say " Da** that's cool!"
 
That .50bmg is a fake IMO. In order to capture the muzzle blast at dust/night along with the surrounding area, you would need slow exposure and slightly longer than normal f-stop setting. The main problem though, is that the longer the the film is exposed, the more motion gets catured and you get motion blur. There is no motion blur in the pacture. Unless they had some extremely expensive camera equipment, you wouldn't be able to time the photo to not include any of the recoil portion.

High speed video cameras could possible provide that, but they would not display the horizon if taken when that picture looks to be taken.
 
Outlaws:
That .50bmg poloroid is a fake IMO. First, its a poloroid, and I don't know of any of those cameras with with adjustable settings.

If you look closer you can see that its not a poloroid. Its a black framed picture with a white mating. You can see it hanging on the wall in the first picture.
 
You can combine a long exposure with a flash. You pick a long exposure that's a bit shorter than you would normally use to capture the scene. The long exposure will start to capture the bright elements of the composition first, such as the muzzleblast, but not yet have received enough light to capture the dim part of the image, ie the person firing firing the gun. Towards the end you fire a reduced power flash to "freeze" and illuminate the person in the foreground. The combination of shorter than usual long shutter time plus low powered flash will result in an overall correctish exposure.
That's the theory, but I'm way not smart enough to work out those numbers on the fly, so I use the "night portrait" setting on my digi camera that sorts that all out for me...
 
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