Corrosive ammo question.

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Why would a range not allow a shooter to shoot Wolf ammo? I don't think Wolf is any more or less dangerous than other 7.62x39 ammo.
Cuz Wolf has steel cases that are not re-loadable and the range guys cannot re-sell them. They get upset cuz they have to separate the steel cases from the brass so they just banned steel cased ammo.
 
Cuz Wolf has steel cases that are not re-loadable and the range guys cannot re-sell them. They get upset cuz they have to separate the steel cases from the brass so they just banned steel cased ammo

Pretty much.
 
Most Wolf ammo is also loaded with steel jacketed bullets with a gilding metal wash. The steel can (in theory at least) damage the range or cause sparks.

BSW
 
Probably do not want Steel case ammo because they scavenge for brass, collect and sell or reload.
 
HUmm I wonder how much they get for Berdan primed 7.62x.39 brass? You poor guys that haft to shoot at ranges owned by jerks.

I shoot a lot of corrosive junk ammo. Don't worry Ak's are made to take it. Just run hot soapy water threw the gas tube and barrel. Also do the bolt and piston. I have left my guns for weeks after shooting corrosive ammo. I happen to live in a wet part of Oregon. I just slap on CLP/break free on it inside and out. but it is best to bring a little stove to warm up soapy water and clean it wile it's still hot.
 
buy your range boys a big ol magnet and let use that to sort ot the steel cases...... problemo solved with sorting done faster than I can type this solution.......
 
Some folks do a solution with ammonia reduced with water a couple of patches and done. Then dry well and some light machine oil.
Some folks do nothing and find no corrosion. I guess is better to do some prevention to be on the safe side.
 
They use one of those wheeled magnets like the roofing crews use to get nails at the range here, but claim they don't sell the brass.
 
steel cannot be sold. Only as steel so an old washing machine might do for the same amount of steel is shot in one year. Depending on range size of course.
 
How did soldiers in WWII clean their guns firing corrosive ammo on the battlefield? They fought in some pretty hot steamy places like the South Pacific or Italy/South France.

Perhaps they were more concerned about dodging shrapnel and bullets rather than letting a little rust build up in the bores of their rifles.
 
The steel cases rust over time and if not picked up the range looks like hell.

IF one is in a club where people get offset for others littering with whatever it is they are littering, then each person should do their part of cleaning and taking care of the club and show the officers and president that there is no need for stupid rules or bans. I mean these are affordable non profit clubs for the average joe, unless they are private enterprise and only want 'selected' people. Then they can charge whatever they want every year, have whatever rules they want and probably pay someone to clean, give you a massage or whatever anyway.

I have been in other clubs and w/o the principal understanding form everyone that the club is as much yours as anybody else's then it will not work.

This is the motto in my 'non-profit' club that costs $70/year and have a nice clubhouse, nice facilities and amazing people like a family:

"If you do half of what you expect the others to do for your club what heck of a club this would be."
 
How did soldiers in WWII clean their guns firing corrosive ammo on the battlefield?

There is a reason all those Mauser rifles have 'sewer pipe' bores and all those Garands got new barrels after the war.

The Sov didn't hardchrome the bores of the subguns they issued during the war for their health.

BSW
 
Yugo troops were issued AKs and SKS rifles with non-chrome lined barrels and corrosive ammo. In a pinch they used urine as their warm water source before cleaning. I'm saying this just to say that as long as you use some type of warm water before cleaning you're good to go .... ammonia based glass cleaner is ideal,
 
Windex or Ammonia will not prevent rusting. I tested 500ml of either windex or water and ammonia mixed and 1 gram of potassium chloride versus steel nails.
The nails rusted within hours and it kept getting worse.

Windex or ammonia will do nothing to prevent the salts from acting with water as a galvanic cell to corrode steel. What actually dissolves the salt is water. Ammonia or windex does not neutralize anything. Salts are not acids and can't be neutralized as acid-bases are.

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What actually dissolves the salt is water. Ammonia or windex does not neutralize anything.

my762buzz here is correct. The point to using windex (or making your own ammonia/water mix) is not that the ammonia does anything, but that it helps the water to evaporate. This is the same reason to use hot water.

If I'm cleaning at home, I'll use hot water and it works great (does the job and evaporates quickly).

If I'm out and about and don't have ready access to free hot water, then I'll just use windex.

You can go either way and they'll both work great. It's just a matter of personal preference/convenience.
 
Make sure its the case and not the bullet your range does not allow. I pay a dollar extra to shoot steel case but no steel bullets allowed.
 
I find shooting surplus to be something that people dramatically make a big deal out of. I've put hundreds of rounds of old 70's corrosive 7.62x54R through my Mosin Nagant and have yet to find a trace of rust or anything of the sort. I always clean my firearms (corrosive or not) after shooting and I never put boiling water, Windex (most Windex doesn't even have ammonia in it anymore like most say is the reason they use it), soap, or urine (I've heard the Russians did this, but I doubt it lol). I use good ol' Hoppes 9. I run several patches until the fowling is very light (you'd be hard pressed to clean a Mosin barrel spotless) alternating between one wet patch, one dry, etc. and then a final patch with light Hoppes oil. I clean the bolt, especially the bolt face very well, again with Hoppes 9 and the end of the barrel.

As I said, I've never had an issue. Also, FWIW, I've read that the 7.62x39 Yugo corrosive ammo is only lightly corrosive, not nearly as bad as the 7.62x54R. Bottom line, just clean your gun with a water based solvent (like Hoppes 9) and you'll be fine.
 
I find shooting surplus to be something that people dramatically make a big deal out of.

If I may point out: You live in a desert, sir.

According to Whelan's book, you need ~30% RH to get rusting from corrosive primers. I suspect you only hit that a few days out of the year. I live on the wet side of the Cascade range in Oregon, where it's a rare day to get down to 30% RH.

BSW
 
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