Coyotes with a light, scopes?

[Barnfixer]

I just picked up a “wicked light” for nighttime coyote hunting and noticed at long distances (200 to 250+ yards) my scopes are not as effective at the higher magnification. I have a 6x25 that has the brightest picture set on 10, and a 3x9 that’s best on 7. Anyone with experience in scope clarity while using a light at night explain this for me? Was thinking of setting up a gun just for this and would like to know some good scope options for brightness and clarity. Is a adjustable parallax needed or not? Was thinking a 4x12 might be a good option. I also have a 4x16 AO that I’ll be trying next weekend.

 

[Laphroaig]

It sounds to me like you are experiencing the effects of exit pupil diameter. If you're not familiar that is the ratio of the scopes objective diameter and the power. The human eye needs something like a 4 or 5mm to take in the maximum available light. A lower number indicates the scope is cutting off the amount of light the eye can process. This is important when hunting at night with artificial light.

You never gave your objective diameters, but if your 6-25 has a 50mm objective, then the exit pupil at 10x is 5mm.

 

[Flintknapper]

We would need to know what the objective lens diameter was on each scope to advise what 'power' you might find best for combination of magnification and exit pupil.

BUT...there is more involved than that when night hunting. In low light conditions the quality of the glass and coatings become important. In full bright light (daytime) just about any scope will do.

After dark and when using artificial light, you begin to separate the 'Men from the Boys' so to speak. A scope with poor light transmission will be a hindrance.

Another aspect.....not normally so noticed in the daytime...is the 'eye box' of the scope. This is the 'window' in depth that your eye will be able to focus in (and see your entire field of view).

In theory it shouldn't change at night but you'll find yourself 'hunting' for a clear view IF the scope has a narrow eye box in the daytime. So...check that out by looking through each scope and moving your head (cheek weld) back and forth an inch or so.

You don't say which COLOR your light is...but IF you picked green (like many folks do) it tends to wash out 'detail' especially on things light colored. It also reflects light off of moisture/fog in the air and can make for a very cloudy image under those conditions.

I much prefer red as it preserves your night vision better and to me shows detail better. Folks like green because they can see it better and in some cases it is good.

With respect to scopes, use the lowest power setting that will give you the magnification needed to identify and make the shot.

This also gives you best field of view. It will provide the largest exit pupil as well. In darkness (depending on your age) you might expect the pupils in your eyes to dilate to around 5mm.

It can be argued that any exit pupil (of the scope) larger than that can not be utilized by the eye (the limiting factor). And while that is certainly true...it is not the only consideration. A slightly larger exit pupil provides you a little 'wiggle room' for finding the eye box. But there is a high end to that.

So ultimately, use the scope with the best glass, set it (try different powers) such that you have enough magnification AND the clearest view of your target at approximate ranges.

Scope parallax settings won't be an issue for you until you get out past 300 yds and this assumes you have adjustable parallax on the scope anyway.

You'll find what works best for YOU. Be realistic in your expectations. Unless you use a very bright, white light...you won't have the same sharp, clear image that you'd have in the daytime. But...you can certainly have a GOOD view with the right equipment and settings.

 

[Barnfixer]

Thanks for the reply’s. I think I’ll setup some type of a target/focus point so checking the scopes at night will be more controlled. The light is red and the 6x25 has a 56mm objective with a side focus. The 3x9 has a 40mm along with the 4x16. The 3x9 does have better glass and seems more crisp. I really don’t think I’ll shoot over 300 yds.

 

[Flintknapper]

Thanks for the reply’s. I think I’ll setup some type of a target/focus point so checking the scopes at night will be more controlled. The light is red and the 6x25 has a 56mm objective with a side focus. The 3x9 has a 40mm along with the 4x16. The 3x9 does have better glass and seems more crisp. I really don’t think I’ll shoot over 300 yds.

^^^^

I certainly hope not. Nighttime hunting for Yotes usually involves calling. I've done a lot of it in my time and generally you'll be able to get animals within 100 yards provided you have the wind/thermals right. Daytime hunting is where you can stretch the distances (depending on terrain).

 

[Barnfixer]

Our night hunting spot is a large hay/cut corn field with a slight hill backdrop and we sit high, hard to judge distance at night sometimes. I do see coyotes in the daytime and never have the gun with. Also all my wolf sightings have been in daylight also. My son has had good luck with his call last winter. He got a couple from 50 yds to 150 yds. His friend stops out with his dads thermo setup sometimes, real sweet but way over my budget.

 

[Bfh_auto]

Thanks for the reply’s. I think I’ll setup some type of a target/focus point so checking the scopes at night will be more controlled. The light is red and the 6x25 has a 56mm objective with a side focus. The 3x9 has a 40mm along with the 4x16. The 3x9 does have better glass and seems more crisp. I really don’t think I’ll shoot over 300 yds.

I've found a red light to work better for me. I've also found the lower power scopes to be better for hunting in general.