Fitting new 1911 barrel

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Gun Geezer

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Well, the train of events since last Saturdays "barrel stuck" episode at the range is still running. I got the barrel & slide separated from one another, have chosen an a "non-drop-in" barrel over a "drop in", and now am proceeding to buy the thing.

The local (about 50 miles away) smithy knows diddly about fitting 1911 barrels. He is primarily a rifle guy. So I either need to fit this barrel myself or send it off.

I am a fairly mechancial guy and can probably get the job done. How hard is it to do really? A little chain saw file work and honing on the lugs to make them right and make sure the back of the barrel fits flush on the breech face, using a little bluing to make sure.

Is this something I should EVEN try myself? If you recommend ABSOULUTELY send it off, then please recommend a good smithy for job.
 
If you haven't already sent off your money, get a Kart EZ fit and their tools and instructions. There is about an 80% chance that a "fairly mechanical guy" with a chain saw file will ruin a new gunsmith fit barrel.
 
Thanks Jim

Actually, I have a machinists back ground. But I must admit one would need a decent understanding of the 1911 to begin to get it right.

I guess my biggest problem is that by the time I spend $150+ on a barrel, $30+ shipping each way to and from a smith, and $150 to $200 for the smith's labor I might as well either buy a cheapo drop-in barrel for $65 or buy a new gun!

Well, your note plus what I have been able to find about the Kart Easy-fit make the easy fit sound like the way to go.

Thanks.
 
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There is about an 80% chance that a "fairly mechanical guy" with a chain saw file will ruin a new gunsmith fit barrel.
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I'd say it's closer to 100% -- the key is filing the lugs, and you need a square, warded file of the right width to do that. A round file will cut deeper than you want, and also take metal off the sides of the lugs.
 
Steve:

I think your determination to “do it yourself†without really knowing what you are doing, is going to cost you some big bucks in the end. If an expensive “hard-fit†barrel is correctly fitted you can expect substantially better accuracy over an ordinary one – although it may come at the expense of some reliability. If the barrel is incorrectly fitted the better accuracy may be nil, in which case you’ve wasted your money.

I have straightened out some jobs done by "fairly mechanical guys," and its usually cost them a bundle - undoing a mess costs more then doing it right in the first place, and I'm not including scrapped & replaced parts.

Doing the job right requires some special tools, jigs, fixtures, and gauges. I can assure you that those that fit barrels as a business don’t use chainsaw files. Experience and knowledge are helpful too.

There is always a chance that you may get things done right, but I strongly doubt it.

And with that the Old Fuff will now withdraw from this thread.
 
A Little Input

Good advice from Fuff and Vern...especially the part about cutting deeper into a radius than you want...and it can be done before you know the damage is done.

It CAN be done...IF...the file jockey is an experienced hand...AND...the round file is used with a draw-filing technique, and the fine-tuning and shaping is done carefully with a scrape...and checked often. In any event, a chainsaw file is too coarse, and too long-angled for the attempt. A warded file or a Swiss-pattern file is your best bet...and hands-on instruction with a toolmaker
on correct draw-filing and scraping techniques. It's tedious work that requires the patience of Job.

Now...Followin' Fuff into the cave condo...backin' out.

Luck!
 
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