Good scale for weighing

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RAVEN1

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I was told to weigh my powder to get a more true weight. I have a gram scale, can't figure it to grams that great. I borrowed a Lee balance scale but can't read it that good. What would be a good won that tells the same each time like it should. Is it better to go with a balance or digital.
 
Samgotit picked a good one.

As for digital scales--I woud stay away from them for your first scale. the cheaper digitals are problematic, and the balance scales are more reliable.

Jim H.
 
What is the difference between the 502 and 505 (besides about five bucks)?

As far as I can tell one measures 505 grains(the 502) and the other measures up to 511 grains(505)

and thats about it....
 
What is the difference between the 502 and 505 (besides about five bucks)?

The 5-0-2 scale has 2 poises, the weights you slide on the balance beam. The small poise moves 1/10 grain from 0 to 5 grains and the large poise moves 5 grains per increment from 0 to 500 grain.

The 5-0-5 scale has 3 poises, the small poise moves 1/10 grain increments for 0 to 1 grain, the middle poise moves in 1 grain increments for 0 to 10 grains and the large poise moves in 10 grain increments from 0 to 500 grain.

The 5-0-5 scale is a bit more naturally intuitive in reading and setting.
 
"Steve C" gave you a good explanation of the difference between the RCBS 502 and 505 scales. IMO the 505 is a much better scale and well worth the few extra bucks.
 
I had an RCBS 1010 with a 505 for backup. I purchased a Lyman 1200 DPS to use with rifle loads (weighing every round) and used the 1010 to check it often.

I've sold the 505 and pretty much use the Lyman 1200 for everything. Once in awhile I'll check it against the 1010 but very happy with the electronic. I still weigh each round for most rifles but for pistol I usually just check the first and last of a batch of 100 with a few in the middle if I think something may have affected the powder drop.

I'm very happy with the electronic and once I figured out one 'quirk' I'm even more confident with it. When you dump powder into the pan the scale will sometimes fluctuate. The initial reading (the instant you dump in the powder) after dumping has proven (using the 1010) to be the correct reading. I've found that if you lift the pan for 2 seconds and replace it you will get the accurate reading with no fluctuation. That fluctuation is what kept me checking it with the 1010 but now I'm confident the electronic is 'good'.
 
I have a 505 that I've used ever since I started loading. Also bought a set of check weights (an excellent investment). I check the scale every time I am getting ready to drop powder. It's never been off when I've leveled it properly. I then check evey tenth load. Works for me and requires no fossil fuel.

Historian

"Democracy requires wisdom."
 
years ago RCBS use to make a 5-10 scale (i had one). Same as the 10-10 but only weighed 510 grains and a smaller base, otherwise identical. Wish I still had it.:banghead:
 
I've always used that little red Lee Precision scale with no problems and it's plenty accurate. Get some good reading glasses from the drug store ( I use them too ).
 
The Lee scale is the most cost effective, under 20 bucks, is very accurate. The Ohaus design used by RCBS in their 500 series is a upgrade worth the xtra bucks over the Lee, big blue, orange, and red all have their versions of the the balance beam style mechanicals at competetitive pricing, then you have the digitals which can run up to 400 bucks with a dispenser.


WHATS IN YOUR WALLET?
 
RCBS 1010, 505 etc are your best bet in my opinion. I have used a 505 scale for many years, and trust its reliability.
 
I bought a used Ohaus, circa 70's, last year and use it exclusively now. I used a hornady beam and lyman electronic before that but now I use the lyman just as a check scale.
 
Another newbie

The 505 scale is a great scale to start on. I have been tossin around the idea of a digital but.....nah! no need for that I have, I love my balance beam. Maybe some day when I have lots of time and to much money I'll buy a Charge Master combo. If you buy the digital, you might as well buy the dispenser. Great product I'm sure but being a newbie I'll stick to the basics. Good Luck!
 
Just to mention something that might help you:

If you use a mechanical scale, find a way to lock the scale at the weight that you want to have in your loads. (The little Lee scale has a little lock pin you can use for that purpose).

Set your powder thrower (or dipper, if you are really low-tech) a few tenths of a grain lower than that, so that all your loads need a bit extra.

Drizzle in the extra with a powder trickler until the scale balances. If you don't have a powder trickler (they are cheap) you can use a spare case (without the primer) as a sort of "salt shaker" to shake out powder a few granules at a time (through the primer hole) onto your pan -- until the beam just balances. For example, a .223 case that has been fired can be filled with Varget and a used .22lr shell makes a nice cap that fits inside the neck of the .223 and will keep it from spilling.

On the little lee, experiment a bit to figure out how much higher or lower the beam will be when you are just about 0.1 grain HIGH or LOW. On mine, it is about 1/8 inch. Just a very few sticks of powder make 0.1 grain! If you get to where you can estimate from how the balance is acting, how high or low you are, then you can "salt shake" or drizzle out just about the right amount to get yourself within 0.1 grain.

On my rifle, a little test with several different powder charges showed that on average, a change of 0.1 grain made only a 0.1 inch difference (on average) in shot placement. So it isn't terribly crucial to be EXACTLY right on unless you'e able to control all other errors down to considerably less than 0.5 MOA.

Hope that helps,

gordon
 
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