how do you clean your guns?

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That's insanity!
Oh, really?

Unless you're shooting old corrosive ammo, fouling from modern, non-corrosive ammo wont hurt your gun any. In a precision rig, it's good to keep it clean or shoot just a couple fouling shots. In a range toy, it doesn't matter. Who gives a damn if your gun is sterile? :p
 
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30-30 cleaning

How u guys clean the barrel of your 30-30????? :confused: :cuss: :banghead: :uhoh:
 
Field strip, clean the gun with Breakfree CLP, except for barrel & breechface; that gets the Hoppes #9 treatment. I use patches everywhere, and the barrel gets a brass brush, followed by patched on a jag. I clean the extractor with a patch wrapped around a small screwdriver. Wipe dry, relube with CLP, and grease on slide rails. I may add a Hoppes foaming bore cleaner to the mix if it does a good job on dirty barrels.
 
Most of the chemicals, that are gun specific, have their merit. What separates these products from one another for me is the price. Since I do shoot mine often, I don’t have to use the premium priced chemicals. A 16 oz. bottle Hoppes #9 goes for $10 and a bottle (small) of Hoppes oil for les than a couple of dollars. Their are other chemicals that are faster for cleaning and better for removing specific problems one can have.. But unless those specific problems come about, I just use the standard Hoppes #9. And use oil, sparingly. Also, autos get lubed differently than revolvers do.
 
How do I clean my firearms? Very thoroughly.

[size=-5]Somebody had to do it...[/size]
 
<<Unless you're shooting old corrosive ammo, fouling from modern, non-corrosive ammo wont hurt your gun any.>>

True.
But, speaking for myself. I clean them after every use. That will vary though, from owner to owner. Storing them is different than using them often.

<<That's insanity!>>

Pertaining to

<<<<I don't mind putting them away "dirty".>>


This is what I say, when people don’t brush their teeth every day. Including dentures.
 
Field strip. Check for and remove debris. Check for cracks, bulges, or anything that looks out of place. Solvent against metal parts. Microfiber cloth on any plastic parts. Lube, reassemble. One wipe down with clean cloth to take care of any excesses. One wipe down with a silicon cloth.

Now, my daily carry, I don't clean much outside of range visits. In between range visits, I give it on occasional wipedown with a silicone cloth and I also put it to the vaccum hose to remove lint. Don't laugh, it works VERY well.
 
All my pistols get field stripped and sprayed down with any, non-chlorinated brake/parts cleaner-whatever's on sale at the auto parts store- barrels/cylinders get bronze brushed with some #9 and dry patched, everything lightly oiled, reassembled then oily/silicone gun cloth the entire thing.
 
My routine:
1. Field-strip the gun.
2. Hose it down with Gun scrubber.
3. Run a brush through the barrel.
4. Run a patch with RemOil through the barrel.
5. Run dry patches through the barrel until they come through clean.
6. Use a brush on the action if needed.
7. Wipe everything out really well with a cotton cloth and patches.
8. Put a little RemOil on the slide rails and various parts of the action.
9. Blot up any excess oil with patches.
10. Put a light coat of oil on the entire gun.
11. Rub it down with a cotton cloth to remove excess oil.
12. Put it back together.

If something is REALLY gummed up (like a new gun with cosmoline), I hose it down with WD-40, wipe it down really well and then move on to my regular cleaning routine.
 
Someone recently mentioned this in a different forum, and I replied thusly:
Barrel
1. Soak one patch in Break-Free CLP (though Hoppes #9 can work too, I just prefer CLP). Pass through the barrel once in each direction, then discard.
2. Take bronze bristle brush, run through barrel one cycle for every 10 rounds fires (200 rounds = 20 forward and back brush strokes).
3. Soak patch in CLP, run through barrel once in each direction, then discard.
4. Alternate wet/dry patches until they come out mostly clean.
5. To finish up, apply CLP (or quality gun lubricating oil) to patch, pass through barrel once in each direction, discard.
6. Pass dry patch through barrel once to absorb excess oil. This allows a very thin film to remain, protecting the bore from rust.
7. Wipe down outside of barrel with oiled patch, then wipe dry.

Alternative Barrel Cleaning
1. Apply CLP to pre-brush area of a boresnake.
2. Pass boresnake through barrel twice.
3. Wipe outside of barrel with oiled patch, wipe dry.

Action
1. Apply CLP to patch, wipe liberally removing most of the gun.
2. Wipe dry.
3. Apply oiled patches/q-tips to various parts until they come out mostly clean.
4. Wipe dry.
5. Apply small drops of oil to necessary lubrication points (see gun's manual), and any points where metal is "shiny" from wear.
6. Wipe up excess oil, leaving only a thin film.
7. Wipe down external parts of the action and gun with an oiled patch, then wipe dry.

One should wipe down springs and other components with an oiled patch, but wipe them dry. Excess oil (more than a thin film) holds airborne gunk and builds it into a gritty sludge, which may cause issues. Most parts in a gun don't require lubrication, though slide rails in pistols do require a bit. Just keep parts clean, wipe with an oiled patch, and wipe dry.

Grease is generally unnecessary unless called for on your gun (such as the working parts of an M1 Garand, which will sling oil all over the place, such as into the shooter's face). Otherwise, the heavier grease can slow down the action by a small amount, which may lead to issues. It also exhibits the same gunk-holding ability of wet oil.

Guns usually require no more than a few drops of oil in their working parts -- if I recall correctly, the Glock pistol requires no more than 5 drops of oil (with the excess wiped away) to function properly.

Guns don't need to be perfectly shiny and clean to operate. In fact, over-cleaning can cause premature wear of the gun. Make sure the parts are free from crud, and the bore doesn't have any visible fouling, oil the parts that need oiling, and you'll be set. There's no real reason to keep guns perfectly clean in all respects.
 
In regards to the original question about Glocks, The Complete Glock Reference Guide states that Glock itself uses Breakfree for all regular lubrication. IT ships pistols with an anti-seize grease from Fel-Pro, but all of its normal cleaning uses any firearm cleaner, and then lube with a few drops of BreakFree.

For my own use, I liberally apply Birchwood-casey Bore Cleaner on all parts to clean them after a range session. I can get this at a local discount store for a few bucks for a one liter bottle. The bore gets the standard routine of wet patch, bronze brush, wet patch, dry patch, and repeat until clean routine.

I then wipe all the disassembled parts dry with a shop rag, then wipe all parts with a lube, wipe dry, and then apply tiny dabs of grease to sliding and impact points.

I just switched from Tetra Gun to Corrosion-X for lubrication and Valvoline Dura-Blend CV Joint grease for the grease. Tetra gun was pretty good, but expensive, I couldn't find it easily, and then only in 4 oz bottles for about $7. The grease was good but also expensive. I am on about my fourth bottle of tetra Gun lube.

I bought two 1-liter bottles of Corrosion-X online for $32 and this should last me about 40 years! Much cheaper and I like it even better than Tetra Gun. It doesn't smell as much and it seems to leave a better dry film. Supposedly it protect much better against rust, too.

I found a 16 oz. tube of the CV Joint grease, with molybdenum disulfide, at the local auto parts store for $5. This should last about 100 years. The Tetra Gun grease was a 4 oz. tub for about $18.

I still carry my left over Breakfree in a small bottle in my range kit for ad hoc cleaning and lubing away from the bench. Will replace that with C-X once it runs out. But at home I like the cheap but as good or better combo of Bore cleaner, Corrosion-X, and CV Joint grease.
 
Field strip your gun.

Have a smoke while pausing to admire the mechanical artistry of your gun's innards.

Run a patch sloppy-wet with Hoppes down the bore a couple of times. Soak the rest of the gun thoroughly in CLP.

Allow to sit while pondering next range or ranch trip.

With an old toothbrush scrub all the nooks and crannies clean. Hit the bore with a brass brush a couple of time to loosen the most caked on crud, then run a nylon brush through it ten or twelve times to get everything sparkly clean.

Ponder next range or ranch trip some more.

Hose down everything with Powder Blast. Everything should be squeeky clean now.

Rethink range or ranch trip because of just-remembered promise to help brother-in-law move.

Spray lightly with CLP and wipe off the residue for general protection. Use a small drop of your favorite lubricant in the more critical pressure bearing areas.

Secretly wish brother-in-law gets dyspepsic projectile leprosy and cancels moving so you can take the range or ranch trip you just spent so much time and effort planning.

Dress the gun in it's favorite case and put to bed, giving it a last pat good night.

Feel guilty about wishing such horrible things would happen to your brother-in-law. How could anyone want a family member to have dyspepsic projectile leprosy when just plain leprosy would do?

Brad
 
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