How to go about restoring an old revolver.

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9MilMan

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Hey everyone, I'm a first time poster and a long time lurker. I've been shooting for about 3 years now and am starting to get into handguns (I'm 16 btw). My dad gave me an old revolver of his (first handgun). Only problem being is that it needs a firing pin and a general overhaul. It's got a lot of light surface rust and some more advanced (but still not too bad) rusting on the cylinder.

So my questions are:
1. What should I do to be gone of the rust and should I have it blued (or any sort of finish?)
2.Where can I get a new firing pin? and can I install it myself, or do I need some gun smithing done?
3.I like the current set of wooden grips, but they need to be shined up, do I need some special stuff or will pledge or some sort of household wood polish/cleaner be fine?
4.Anybody know what kind of revolver this is, all I know is that it's a .44, it has no markings at all.

Please feel free to give any advice as far as making this diamond in the rough stand out or any general tips on the cleaning and maintenance of revolvers.
I appreciate the help in advance.

P.S. Sorry for sub-par pics, I only have my cell available at the moment.
 

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Hmmm I don't think it is a 44 caliber, but rather a Webley 455.

Specifications
Case type straight rimmed
Bullet diameter .454 in (11.5 mm)
Neck diameter .476 in (12.1 mm)
Base diameter .480 in (12.2 mm)
Rim diameter .535 in (13.6 mm)
Case length .770 in (19.6 mm)
Overall length 1.230 in (31.2 mm)
Primer type large pistol
Ballistic performance
Bullet weight/type Velocity Energy
265 gr (17.2 g) FMJ 620 ft/s (190 m/s) 222 ft·lbf (301
 
Oh a Webley is it. Didn't see that coming, is .455 pricey? Is there any sort of value on this or is it fairly common?
 
Midway USA sells it for $39 per box of 50, they currently have it in stock. So, while it's not horrifically expensive it's not cheap either.

imagehi1.jpg
 
You will have difficulty finding loaded ammunition at a price you can afford for this gun, but you can reload your own. Graff and sons offers .455 Webley brass for sale. You can get a reloading kit and bullet mould and you'll be in businesses

You should first, however, disassemble the gun -- You can probably find disassembly instructions on the web. Be careful! Be sure you have the right tools, including properly-ground screwdrivers, so you don't bugger up the screws.

You can find parts at Gunparts Corp., on the web. Replace the broken or worn parts (but save the old parts) and get the gun in working order before you order reloading tools and supplies.
 
A lot of these were converted to .45ACP by milling the rear face of the cylinder. I cannot tell from the pics if this is one of them.
Where do you live, there might be somebody nearby who can help you?
 
I live in Mass, not too far away from a gunstore/smith place. Primarily they're a store though, so I'm not sure if they'd be able to help me. If this thing could be converted to .45, I'd be extremely happy, I like this revolver a lot, I really do, but I will be rid of it becuase I can't afford the ammo and I want the ability to shoot a more standard American round (.45 being a perfect example).
 
Converting them to .45 ACP was ill-advised when the importers were doing it back in the 50's & 60's, and it still is.

The break-top .455 Webley was never designed to withstand .45 ACP pressure or recoil. They will rather quickly shake loose with .45 ACP 230 FMJ.

Besides, by the time you get parts to make yours work, and then have the cylinder converted, you are going to have the price of a nice S&W in it.
Or more.

rcmodel
 
I second that. Clean it up, replace broken or missing parts (but keep the orginal parts in a safe place, so you can restore it to original condition.)

If you want to shoot it, get .455 brass and dies and load your own.
 
It would be a very nice gun if you fixed it up. Though I don't expect many gunsmiths to be competent with the Webley, they'd probably be able to help you. If you intend to shoot it, load your own. It will cost much less in the long run.

I don't advise selling it off for something else, though. It might seem like a good idea now, but in a few years you'll regret it. The Webley is a fine revolver and one of the few examples of top-breaks.

You might consider sanding down the grips and applying a new finish. Or you might be able to carve your own with some work. And rebluing would make it look fantastic.

Nice to see another younger person on the boards, though. I'm seventeen myself, eighteen in just over a month. Welcome to the forums!
 
To fix it up I would strip it and soak it in a gentle cleaner such as M-pro spray. I would avoid any high-octane cleaners that might strip the remaining blue. Clean the rust off with rags and avoid anything that will scrape blue. What you want is an end result with the rust gone but with blue and patina left. It's a slow process but enjoyable. Do not re-blue as it will look cheapo and decrease the value of the piece. With basic care you can prevent any further rust issues. A coat of CLP does the trick for my firearms.

For gun wood I never, ever use any household furniture anything. Those products are synthetic crud. Boiled linseed oil, tung oil or other traditional finishes will give you a much better result. I'd make sure about the background on the wood before you do anything. I assume those are aftermarket but I don't know.

These guys know a ton about these British wheelguns and can help locate a new pin:

http://forums.gunboards.com/forumdisplay.php?f=56
 
If you sand the grips or re-blue it, it will lose value, big time. A gun with honest scars and patina is worth much more than the same gun reblued and sanded.
 
Gun Parts Corporation may have the parts that you need. The hammer has to be replaced since the firing pin is part of the hammer. The grips could be replaced as those appear to be replacements.

Look at the rear of the cylinder where the serial number is and see if the lower part of the numbers are missing. If the cylinder was shaved to allow the use of 45 ACP in moon clips the lower part of the serial number would be lost in the process. If it is in 45 ACP shoot mild handloads. I use 5.7 grains of Unique with a 250 grain lead SWC in my modified Webley which I've had since the mid '60s.
 
Apex apparently has hammers. See post #8.

Numric / Gunparts.com does not.
They are out of stock and there probably won't be any more on the next slow boat from England.

rcmodel
 
Did you say that was your dad's first gun? Myself, I'd have it restored by a pro to as-new condition, as get the setup to load .455's for it. Then I'd cherish it forever.

But that's just me. Since my parents & grandparents are all gone, I feel more sentimental about things like that now. I've already let too many of their things slip away from me, and I really regret it.
 
Don't convert it to .45 ACP. You'll damage both the structural integrity of the gun and seriously reduce the value.

Instead get it fixed up, get a couple boxes of .455 and take it shooting with your Dad. Save the brass in case you get started in reloading later.

Take the money you would have spent getting it converted, save it and add a bit more, and find a nice used S&W for a shooter.
 
Use bronze wool and oil on the rust. That will take off the rust without damaging the bluing. Don't use steel wool, or rust removing chemicals. If this gun has not had the cylinder "shaved" to accept .45ACP and half-moon clips it is worth lots more. Unconverted Webleys are going for more than double what shaved ones sell for. The .455 Webley is an easy cartridge to reload for. Brass is available from Buffaloarms.com, and Lee Precision makes inexpensive dies. If your gun is converted you might still want to get dies and reload anyway even if .45ACP is easily available. Webleys usually do better with slightly lower pressure ammo than commercial .45ACP, and they like lead bullets which are cheaper too.
 
rondog, It's not my dad's first gun, my first handgun, I can see where you'd get confused by my original statement. Between my father and grandather, there are lots of rifles and handguns in lots of calibers (no 9mm, which is disappointing).

TI want something I can shoot, so I'll have it restored and sell it for something I want (Beretta 92FS, Ruger GP 100, AR-15). Roughly how much would something like mine go for after a good sprucing up? Your advice sounds good curator, I'll do that. I would have it converted to .45, but that just doesn't seem like the economical thing to do.
 
I want something I can shoot, so I'll have it restored and sell it for something I want (Beretta 92FS, Ruger GP 100, AR-15). Roughly how much would something like mine go for after a good sprucing up?
It will go for a lot less after "a good sprucing up" than it would before you spruced it up.
 
I usually hate when folks give out advice on not changing/refinishing/etc old guns just because of nonsense like resale or collector value, but if you're planning on just selling it anyway, it is a valid point.

I'd just like to state that I wish my dad had bought me a gun, especially when I was your age.(Dad wasn't and isn't anti-gun, just not all that interested. Mom was somewhat anti then, less so now). If it were me, I'd get it back to suitable working condition at the very least, and shoot it every now and again. Having your dad hand down to you your first handgun only happens once. Plenty of time to pick up different gun later.
 
As other's have said, if you are going to sell it anyway, DON'T do anything to the gun.

Just oil it up with gun oil and some patches and stop there. Anything more you do will damage the collector's value. Let the new buyer decide how they want to repair or restore the gun.

Yes, the gun is not worth as much as if it was in good shape to start, but there really isn't that much you can do to improve the value now and much you could do to lower the value even further.
 
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